Neighbourhood Guide
Coal Harbour
By Rosemary Poole published Jul 22, 2011
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Occupying a gorgeous stretch of waterfront between downtown and Stanley Park, Coal Harbour is known for its glittering glass towers, hotels, and MIA residents (for many, this is their second or third home)
Eats | Shops | Visit | Households
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Eats
Surely in the running for best patio are those found at 1. Lift and 2. Cardero’s. Lift, the pricier of the pair, has a fab brunch menu; Cardero’s is the place for a frosty pint and seafood-leaning pub fare. Lift Bar & Grill: 333 Menchions Mews, 604-689-5438. Liftbarandgrill.com. Cardero’s: 1583 Coal Harbour Quay, 604-669-7666.
3. Claim a sidewalk table at Bella Gelateria, an ideal corner perch for perusing passersby. Down your Milano espresso quickly, then linger over the authentic gelato that comes in classic stracciatella and pistachio siciliano as well as inventive flavours like Thai coconut. 1001 W. Cordova St., 604-695-5501. Bellagelateria.com
4. Greet the day at sunny Giovane Bakery with a signature vanilla sugar bun, or its Italian cousin, the Zeppole, which is plumped with rich chocolate cream and topped with a dark choc glaze. Balance out the sweet with their dusky custom-roast coffee from local roaster 49th Parallel. 1038 Canada Pl., 604-695-5300. Giovanecafe.com
5. While away the day atop a tawny leather banquette in newly opened retro-Parisian Tableau Bar, where you can survey pop art while jazz curls around your La Bicyclette apertif. It's worth meditating over the menu; onion soup is an obvious starter, but the range of tempting mains (thinksucculent lamb shanks and fresh halibut cobb salad) challenges even the most decisive. 1181 Melville St., 604-639-8692. Tableaubarbistro.com
Shops
1. Zing Paperie is the place for those of us more into packaging than what’s inside, stocking bold gift wrap, note cards, and spools of glossy ribbon in its seaside shop. Custom-design orders, using all print techniques, including engraving and letterpress, are available through the full-service stationery business—highly recommended. 60–323 Jervis St., 604-630-1885. Zingdesign.ca
2. Urban Fare is the grocery store for condo dwellers. There’s a superb selection of prepared and gourmet foods—200 cheeses and counting—and daily specials at in-store restaurant Carvery offer great value. 305 Bute St., 604-669-5831. Urbanfare.com
3. Cheek by cheek, Calvin Klein Underware (1012 Alberni St., 604-899-0667. Cku.ca), and Agent Provocateur offer differing interpretations of what constitutes an undergarment. American label CK proffers practical yet sexy minimalism for both genders. Meanwhile, British brand Provocateur focuses on alluring seasonal confections that utilize pasties and suspenders (Don't forget to browse the super-sultry bikini line). 1020 Alberni St., 604-688-2712. Agentprovocateur.com
4. M0851 is a Canadian master of of modernist leather goods made with traditional craftsmanship. Their sleek bombers and chic carryalls in full-grain calfskin are available for both men and women. They've also expanded their accessories to include ultra-comfy, knitted-linen summer scarves. 1035 Alberni St., 604-688-9575. M0851.com
5. Luxury resides at Burrard & Alberni where you'll see destination brands like Cartier, Coach, Louis Vuitton, St. John, and Gucci—all just a teeny hop from hotel lobbies and cruise ships. In the 1000-1200 blocks of Alberni, stop for Betsey Johnson, renegade American and champion of electric-pink garden frocks; farther along, Brooks Brothers and Burberry rep haute prep while Escada desplays slim suits, slinky gowns, and tropical resortware.
6. The legendary French luxury goods house Hermes (755 Burrard St., 604-681-9965. Hermes.com) sits smugly across from famously talented gemologists Tiffany & Co. (723 Burrard St., 604-630-1300. Tiffany.ca). Channel old Hollywood by browsing for diamonds a la Audrey Hepburn before strolling over to ogle a crocodile (Grace) Kelly bag.
7. The Shangri-La Hotel Gift Shop has sensible items like Moleskin notebooks, but most who wander in seek to replicate the ephemeral white tea and floral fragrance that wafts through the opulent hotel lobby, available in room spray, candles, and essential oils. 1128 W. Georgia St., 604-689-1120. Shangri-la.com
Visit
1. Felled by the windstorms of December 2006, the century-old catalpa tree at the Georgia St. entrance of Stanley Park has become a symbol of the devastation and restoration. It also inspired the work Lazarus Tree, by Vancouver artist Tiko Kerr.
2. Running Room’s Denman Street store hosts free practice runs for all levels, from beginners to marathoners, Sundays at 8:30 a.m. and Wednesdays at 6 p.m. Most routes wind through Stanley Park and can be downloaded from the website. 679 Denman St., 604-684-9771. Runningroom.com
3. Wander the Coal Harbour seawall and take in the bustling traffic of floating gas stations, gargantuan cruise ships, and dutiful ferries in contrast to the serene, land-bound sails soaring from the visually arresting Canada Place, command central for the 2010 Olympic Games.
Households
