Neighbourhood Guide
Gastown/Chinatown
By Rosemary Poole published Jun 1, 2009
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The gentrification of Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhoods continues unabated, with an impressive slate of new stores and restaurants opening in the past year, and more heritage conversions coming on the market
Eats | Shops | Visit | Households
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Eats
Charcuterie took off here a few years back with 1. Salt—still a stellar spot for after-work and late-night drinks. Then came 2. So.Cial Custom Butcher Shop & Deli, where house-made charcuterie on focaccia—primed with roasted red peppers, hot peppers, lettuce, cheese, and red onion—earns our vote for the best sandwich in town. (With large sandwiches topping out at $12, the word is out: at lunchtime this place is packed to its pressed-tin ceiling.) Latest: 3. The Greedy Pig, a friendly joint serving local artisan meats (lots of whole-animal butchery) and new-classic cocktails by bartender-about-town Nick Devine. Salt Tasting Room: 45 Blood Alley, 604-633-1912. Salttastingroom.com. So.Cial: 332 Water St., 604-669-4488. Socialatlemagasin.com. Greedy Pig: 307 W. Cordova St., 604-669-4991. Thegreedypig.ca
4. Start with weekend brunch at Café Medina, where Belgian waffles, topped with fig/orange marmalade or pistachio/white chocolate, are specialties—and a deal at $4 and change. 556 Beatty St., 604-339-9395. Medinacafe.com
5. Grab a cup of locally roasted 49th Parallel coffee and a decadent housemade almond croissant at the sleek Coffeebar (10 Water St., 604-566-9693. Thecoffeebar.ca) before perusing the hyper-modern and elaborately displayed furnishings at neighbouring Inform Interiors.
6. Lunch at the Dirty Apron Deli is always a treat, with a rotating menu of soups, pastas, and proteins that receive the same careful seasoning as the dishes at big brother resto Chambar, just up the street. The sandwiches are stupendously good. 540 Beatty St., 604-879-8588. Dirtyapron.com
Shops
7. Bless the duo behind (212) for a store full of stylish, sexy clothes that are actually affordable. Lots of urban labels, like Sunday Sun for boys and Mink Pink for girls, but the minimalist house line is reason enough for a look-see. 454 W. Cordova St., 604-685-2426. Twoonetwo.net
8. Find Erin Templeton’s gorgeous leather belts, strappy flip-flops, and signature hand-knotted bags at her Chinatown atelier. 511 Carrall St., 604-682-2451. Erintempleton.com
9. Obakki is a West Coast clothing collective overseen by Treana Peake (wife of Nickelback guitarist Ryan Peake) and showcased in a stunning retail space—all concrete, exposed brick, and wood. The clothing is manufactured locally and is distinguished by its muted colour palette and beautiful draping. 44 Water St., 604-669-9727. Obakki.com
Score reproductions of modern furniture like Saarinen dining chairs and Noguchi tables, at neighbouring stores 10. Koolhaus and 11. Nood. (We like Koolhaus for massive statement mirrors and sleek patio furniture, and Nood for well-priced tableware and luggage—love the Whistler Weekend bag.) Koolhaus: 1 Water St., 604-875-9004. Koolhausdesign.com. Nood: 151 Water St., 604-684-9008. Nood.ca
12. Those seeking authentic Eames, Platner, Aalto, et al. should proceed directly to Inform Interiors. Owner Niels Bendtsen’s locally manufactured furniture line, Bensen, holds its own, with modern lines and incredible construction. 50 and 97 Water St., 604-682-3868. Informinteriors.com
13. Keefer Street transforms into the lively Chinatown Night Market every summer weekend, complete with flea-market finds, entertainment—be it Canto-pop or traditional Chinese opera—and flavourful street eats. Vancouver’s cheapest night out. 6:30 to 11 p.m. every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from May 15 to September 6. 604-682-8998. Vcma.shawbiz.ca
14. Planet Claire stocks sustainably and ethically produced clothing and accessories, and many pieces are one-of-a-kind. Look for hand-printed LiliKoi dresses and Re-Surface’s bold light fixtures, inspired by Brooklyn graffiti. 212 Abbott St., 778-829-9275. Planetclaire.ca
15. John Fluevog is perhaps Vancouver’s best-known designer, with his incredibly detailed shoes, sandals, and boots—many bearing his trademark chunky hourglass-shaped heel. 65 Water St., 604-688-6228. Fluevog.com
16. The Block: With so many stores and ateliers opening in these parts, it’s easy to overlook the boutique that’s been here all along. Local designers get equal billing with exclusive-in-Vancouver brands; look for Anna de Courcy’s striking pendant necklaces made from old thimbles and coins. 350 W. Cordova St., 604-685-8885
17. Roden Gray: This new menswear concept store has a modern, if sombre, vibe in keeping with sensuous cologne from Comme des Garçons and utilitarian separates from lines such as Nice Collective, Apolis Activism, and local label Wings+Horns. 231 Cambie St., 604-689-7302
18. With its Grey Gardens aesthetic (think turban-clad models, vintage tea party sets, and taxidermied raccoons), Lola stocks partywear by local designers Jason Matlo and Carlie Wong, as well as shoes by Paris-fashionista-fave Bensimon, candles and hand creams by Tocca, and impossibly chic Burberry kidswear. 510 Beatty St., 604-633-5017. Lolahomeandapparel.com
19. Though this homewares shop may look and feel gallery-like with its rare finds and elegant pieces, Orling & Wu runs more friendly in vibe. The owners met while attending design school in England, so the mix of contemporary, vintage, and classic pieces for sale reflects a European sensibility: whether it’s the Nosey Parker greeting cards handmade in the U.K. with Liberty House fabric or the Service tea set designed by Jurgen Bey for Royal Tichelaar Makkum, appointed by the Dutch Royal Family—each piece is a tiny treasure. 28 Water St., 604-568-6718. Orlingandwu.com
20. Saager DiLawri studied at Parson’s and worked for many years at UNIS (a contemporary men’s label that evokes classic American sportswear) before opening swish Neighbour, which stocks labels like Our Legacy from Sweden and Outlier from NYC, as well as an in-house line of rugby crewneck sweatshirts made by Portland’s Columbiaknit. 125–12 Water St., 604-558-2555. Shopneighbour.com
21. Gastown boutique Oak + Fort opened quietly this past winter. The pared-down space shows off the clean lines and soft, wearable fabrics that characterize the eponymous line (a collaboration between local and Korean designers who oversee production in Korea). Also on display are funky necklaces, earrings, and leather accessories, many designed in-house. 32 Water St. Oakandfort.com
22. Be forewarned: when leaving The Old Faithful Shop, you might start pining for a larder or, at the very least, glass-bottle milk delivery service. This bricks-and-mortar general store harks back to a time when packages were wrapped in twine and most things were crafted by hand—but still manages to evoke an au courant vibe. From jam jars (starting at $8) to iPad attachés (by Makr, $240), all goods look like they belong in an old trading post. 320 W. Cordova St., 778-327-9376. Oldfaithfulshop.com
Visit
1. Look skyward for the neighbourhood’s new landmark: the red-steel-latticed W Building. Part of the Woodward’s redevelopment, the new tower references the flat-iron building in New York and the mansard-roofed Dominion Building at Cambie and Hastings. 100 W. Hastings St., between Cambie and Abbott
2. An oasis in the inner city, the Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden is designed in the Ming Dynasty tradition, all winding pathways, waterways teeming with koi fish, and lush stands of bamboo and flowering plants like rhododendron—visit in May, when they’re starting to bloom. 578 Carrall St., 604-662-3207. Vancouverchinesegarden.com
3. The Wing Sang Building, Chinatown’s oldest building, dating back to 1889, was once home to an opium factory, then an import/export business. It’s now being renovated for the offices of ubiquitous condo marketer Bob Rennie’s private art museum. 51 E. Pender St.
Households
