Restaurants
Chef of the Year 2009
By Andrew Morrison published May 1, 2009
Robert Belcham is an ego-free chef who's making “some of the best food this city has seen”
IT’S often said open kitchens work against cooks, the presence of customers distracting rather than inspiring. At Fuel’s front-row kitchen bar, co-owner and executive chef Robert Belcham artfully turned that myth around. There, in full view, he thrives.
“I love everything about this chef,” a fellow judge confided, describing Belcham’s food as “some of the best this city has seen.” And some of the most interesting, too, with straightforward, unapologetic presentations of “the nasty bits”—brain, cheek, jowl, offal, bacon, loin, and cured whole leg, each sourced from the same pig and all plated during the same service. If it’s hard to imagine this champion of lardo and foie gras training at a vegetarian restaurant before taking up residence at False Creek’s sustainable-seafood-savvy C Restaurant and then opening his own room, it’s impossible to forget him dutifully doing bemused, stoic battle with vegan protesters during the dinner rush. “Fuel’s charm and ingredients of choice are entirely authentic,” a food writer pointed out. Our Chef of the Year shares in that authenticity. Witness his Everyman turn with buttermilk-fried chicken next to biscuits smothered in gravy. Protest that!
Called “Vancouver’s practitioner of nose-to-tail eating,” Belcham, in his mid-30s, personifies the ascendancy of a new generation of Vancouver cooks. A giant of a man, colourfully tattooed and blessed with the quiet confidence that comes with studied ability, he’s earned the respect of his peers who applaud his knife skills, his affinity for local ingredients, and his unfailingly jovial manner on the line.
In December, Belcham and his partners opened a second restaurant, the Italian-themed Campagnolo, to critical acclaim. He’s a chef’s chef, “a total food dork” as one judge wrote, the kind who eschews ego in favour of mentoring and opts for honesty at the expense of pretence. His enthusiasm for his tough craft is exceeded only by the strength of character required to survive it. For that, and for the mark he’s making on the city’s food scene, we congratulate him.
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I remember reading about him somewhere else recently. They talked about how extreme their experience was when they visited. I wouldn't be surprised to see him on that TV show where they go around the world eating odd things. landlords insurance
I think being innovative, straightforward and not the least bit apologetic about it is great. I'd love to visit to try out his food...but dear heaven, no brains, cheeks and loins - please! Tesco loans
I like Robert, his food is briliant
Tommy
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Wow, they look so cutee.. I don't think I have enough heart to eat them, lol.. Nice shots! lotto
Wow - that foie gras must have had an extra helping of spleen!
You disagree with the choice of Belcham as chef of the year - entirely your prerogative. But do remember that although Andrew Morrison wrote the profile accompanying the award, he was only one of 19 who weighed in on the selection - no more or less important than his fellow judges. Here's more info on the judging process.
this award is such a joke i was at fuel TONIGHT and i ordered the foie and got a reasonably decent seared piece of foie on top of soggy brioche with sliced fennel tops that should have been peeled for 29$ this dish should be perfect especially if coming from the chef of the tear. and shame on van mag their setup of not being able to win this award twice leaves me to be able to guess who will win it each year without dining at their restaurants. In the future please be true to your original asperations and pick who is the best not who kisses your ass the most (im looking at you andrew) and a 35 doller ribeye with hashbrowns and bittergreens doesnt cut it especially with no jus
