Restaurants
Food Trends, 2008
By Chris Gonzalez published May 1, 2008
Additional Images click to enlarge
West Coast cuisine suggests organic meat and poultry, sustainably harvested seafood, and locally sourced seasonal fruits and vegetables. But a closer look reveals another component: a profound Asian influence on the city’s kitchens.
At Gastropod, on West Fourth, chef Angus An—who was born in Taiwan to Chinese parents and moved to Canada when he was 10 years old—is talking about the way his background has influenced his cooking. “I went to Japan with my parents when I was very young, and I can still remember the steam coming from a bowl of ramen noodles on a cold day.” An’s manner, like his food, is thoughtful and meticulous. “What struck me was its simplicity. That’s what I want to achieve with this restaurant—an environment that is simple and minimal, yet very inviting.”
Simplicity is not the only Asian influence at Gastropod. An’s salmon “à la Gastropod” is seared with nori and tempura and garnished with a wasabi sabayon. “The wasabi is very sharp; it slices right through a fatty fish like salmon.” His Polderside chicken is paired with an “Asian pesto”—a concoction of minced green onion, ginger, lemon zest, and peanut oil that mimics the traditional basil and olive oil pestos of Northern Italy. His Sloping Hills pork tenderloin is served with a reduction of deep-fried shallots, toasted sesame seeds, and the “earthy nuttiness” of tamarind.
“My wife is from Thailand. I was cooking in a Thai restaurant in London when we met, so needless to say,” he says, suppressing a laugh, “I have a particular fondness for that cuisine.”
Next door at Fuel, chef/owner Robert Belcham says that Asian influences infuse his menu but extend well beyond it. “The design of our whole restaurant was based around the concept of the sushi bar.” He gestures with a heavily tattooed arm to his open kitchen near the entrance. “We purposely put our kitchen front and centre so guests could sit up at the bar and watch it all happen—just like I love to do in Japanese restaurants. Our design is very Asian minimalist: a lot of organic colours and materials that are very welcoming.
“I prepare my sablefish with a dashi broth,” he adds. “Dashi brings a distinct umami element [the elusive fifth taste beyond sweet, sour, salt, and bitter]. Sablefish is very delicate, but when paired with dashi the nuances of its natural flavour are immediately intensified.” Belcham shows me his most prized possession. “When I left C Restaurant, Harry [Kambolis, owner] and Rob [Clark, executive chef] gave me a handmade knife from Japan. It’s not only the best gift I’ve ever received from an employer, but it’s scary sharp and my favourite to use.
