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Commercial Drive Food Crawl - continued

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Out of Divino Wine Bar's tiny kitchen come sophisticated plates like leek-ash-crusted pork loin in maple-walnut jus Ksenia Makagonova
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Change comes slowly to the globally aware souk that is the Drive

The wine list at Divino Wine Bar (1590 Commercial Dr., 604-258-0005. boasts astonishing depth, listing gems like a 1998 Condesa de Leganza la Mancha Reserva; chef Jefferson Alvarez turns out equally well-considered jewels from the kitchen, like Sloping Hill pork loin crusted with leek ash over celeriac purée in maple-walnut jus.

Quick with a smile and a story, Jack Elmasu has been providing Vancouverites with Mediterranean and Middle Eastern culinary treats at Mediterranean Specialty Foods (1824 Commercial Dr., 604-438-4033) for over 35 years. He carries an impressive selection of olive oils, halva, cheeses, and house-made tapenades, but it's the pistachio baklava that has us haunting the place. Baked daily, they're studded with creamy nuts, flaky, and delightfully sweet.

St. Augustine's (2360 Commercial Dr., 604-569-1911. is a destination for Vancouver's legions of craft beer lovers. The staggering selection of 40 microbrew beers on tap rotates weekly to emphasize freshness. Head over on Cask Night Mondays and sample rare specialty brews like Red Truck's Limited Series Big Black Bock, a hybrid of two classic German-style lagers, or Moylan's Nitro Special Bitter.

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