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Made in Oregon — Page 3
Due South
Only 50 minutes by air from Vancouver, Portland has
emerged from its fleece-lined cocoon as a vibrant, cosmopolitan
centre. The city is divided into quadrants by the Willamette
River (running north-south) and Burnside Street (running
east-west), but it’s best explored as a series
of neighbourhoods, each organized around strolls of
arty shops and destination dining rooms.
Downtown
Office blocks are studded with cinemas, performing-arts
centres, and high-end department stores; what makes
it unique is the abundance of green space, where you’ll
often find nine-to-fivers sipping coffee and tossing
a bocce ball.
> Portland Saturday Market, tucked
under the north end of the Burnside bridge, runs March
1 to December 24 and features typical fare (jams, jellies,
jewellery) and a crash course in the local craft movement
that moves well beyond kitsch. Portlandsaturdaymarket.com
> Belly up to the bar alongside thirty-something
suits at Southpark Seafood Grill and Wine Bar
(901 SW Salmon St., 503-326-1300); refuel with
shared seafood plates and wines by the glass before
hitting up the deep discounts at Nordstrom Rack
(245 SW Morrison St., 503-299-1815).
> Spend an afternoon taking in the impressive collection
of photographs, and three separate galleries dedicated
to the arts of China, Japan, and Korea at the Portland
Art Museum (1219 SW Park Ave., 503-226-2811.
Portlandartmuseum.org). June to September the museum
features the Contemporary Northwest Art Awards, which
recognize emerging artists living in the Northwest.
> At Cacao (414 SW 13th Ave., 503-241-0656.
Cacaodrinkchocolate.com) find more than 150 pure, artisanal
chocolate bars from around the world, and confections
displayed like precious jewels in glass cases. Order
a shot of the decadent drinking chocolate infused with
chili; Hershey’s will never taste the same.
> Large recliners, loveseats, full bar menu, luxy
nibblies—all moviegoing experiences should be
as civilized as that at Living Room Theaters
(341 SW 10th Ave., 971-222-2010. Livingroomtheaters.com).
There’s also live jazz in the café/lobby
area on Friday and Saturday evenings, and a hopping
happy-hour scene.
Pearl District
Think Yaletown: Originally an industrial zone, the Pearl
sees warehouses reimagined as high-end galleries, clothing
boutiques, and home-décor shops.
> You haven’t done Portland until you’ve
visited Powell’s City of Books (1005
W Burnside St., 503-228-4651. Powells.com). The world’s
largest independent bookstore (68,000 square feet; so
big that it provides maps) now has five satellite locations
in the city, and is renowned for an extensive collection
of rare and out-of-print titles.
> Housed in a former garage, Park Kitchen
(422 NW Eighth Ave., 503-223-7275. Parkkitchen.com),
with its cozy nooks and crannies all facing an open
kitchen, attracts serious foodies with dishes like lamb
tartare with spiced chickpeas and mint, and nettle fettuccini
with cardoncello mushrooms and shaved goat cheese.
> Local designer Michelle Decourcy’s
girly boutique (916 NW Flanders St., 503-227-2971. Michelle-decourcy.com)
is stocked with flirty frocks, in step with fashion’s
seasonal love affair with all things floral.
> Look no further than Teardrop (1015
NW Everett St., 503-445-8109. Teardroplounge.com), for
hands down, the city’s best cocktails; every expert
pour is a brilliant balance of flavours. Mixers (tonic
water, liqueurs, bitters) are made daily in-house, and
Coca-Cola is imported from Mexico (where cane sugar
is used to sweeten). Ask to sample the highly aromatic,
locally made Aviation gin, with its top notes of cardamom,
lavender, sarsaparilla, and dried orange peel.
> Hive (820 NW Glisan St., 503-242-1967.
Hivemodern.com) carries Foscarini lamps, the limited-edition
Eames plywood elephant, and many more emblematic modern
designs for the home.
> Hop on the MAX Light Rail blue line to Washington
Park Station, where Bus 63 (which runs only once an
hour) takes you to the International Rose Test
Garden (400 SW Kingston Ave., 503-823-3636.
Rosegardenstore.com); on a clear day, the view of downtown
and Mount Hood from the hillside garden is spectacular.
Nob Hill
Centered on NW 23rd Avenue, Nob Hill, also known as
the alphabet district (for the cross-streets), is ground
zero for established Portland designers, and chic restaurateurs
and café owners.
> Blush Beauty Bar (513 NW 23 Ave.,
503-227-3390. Theblushbeautybar.com) stocks cult-status
makeup and skin-care lines (many unavailable in Vancouver),
like smudge-proof, ultra-thick Eyeko mascara.
> Local tastemakers Kathryn Towers and Holly Stalder
offer up a carefully edited selection of indie fashion
labels at their Seaplane shop (827
NW 23rd Ave., 503-234-2409. E-seaplane.com).
> Dishes like juniper-rubbed roast quail with house-made
sauerkraut, and a fish stew crammed with catalan, shellfish,
monkfish, mussels, squid, Alaskan spot prawns, and Manila
clams make 23Hoyt Restaurant and Bar (529
NW 23rd Ave., 503-445-7400. 23Hoyt.com) a local favourite.
Alberta
On the last Thursday evening of the month, galleries
and studios on NE Alberta Street open their doors to
display new works by established and emerging artists;
restaurants, bars, and clothing boutiques all do double
duty displaying artwork on their walls.
> Beach babe meets prairie-girl chic at Tumbleweed
(1812 NE Alberta, 503-335-3100. Tumbleweedboutique.com);
the focus is casual dresses, but you’ll also find
cute cardigans, stockings, and locally designed accessories.
> Travel in style with fuchsia crocodile-skin carry-on
luggage from the sunshine yellow Mabel and Zora
Boutique (1468 NE Alberta, 503-335-6169. Mabelandzora.com).
> Order the ploughman’s lunch, or a crusty
baguette sandwich, and a glass of locally produced Pinot
Gris, at Foster and Dobbs (2518 NE
15th Ave., 503-284-1157. Fosteranddobbs.com), a gourmet
deli featuring European and American farmstead cheese,
cured meats, craft beer, wine, and fine groceries.
Hawthorne
Hawthorne, the city’s original alt ’hood,
has kept its quirky charm despite a slow march toward
gentrification. (Think Commercial Drive, Starbucks included.)
> Local35 (3556 SE Hawthorne Blvd.,
503-963-8200. Local35.com) was recently recognized by
GQ magazine as one of the best men’s stores in
America; they carry tailored, street-inspired clothing
from labels like Umbro by Kim Jones, Nudie, and J.Lindeberg.
> Chris Tsefalas has spent over 40 years amassing
his collection of fine fragrances at The Perfume
House (3328 SE Hawthorne Blvd., 503-234-5375.
Theperfumehouse.com). It’s one of the few fragrance
shops in the world to carry Le Vainqueur, a scent commissioned
by Napoleon and Josephine.
Mississippi
Once the city’s light-manufacturing centre, Mississippi
Avenue is now home to young professionals and start-up
shops.
> Go for breakfast at Gravy (3957
N Mississippi Ave., 503-287-8800) and load up on hearty
portions of scrambles, omelettes, and challah French
toast. Locals love the Sweet Bowls, an oatmeal brûlée
with bananas and pecans, or brown sugar and berries.
> Portland, and especially Mississippi Avenue, is
crowded with vintage/antique/knick-knack shops. Bypass
the rest and head straight to Flutter (3948
N Mississippi Ave., 503-288-1649. Flutterclutter.com)
for a stylish, if eclectic, collection of antique French
vanities, luxurious soaps, vintage jewellery, art books,
and reworked costumes.
> Mismatched china, gilded artwork, chandeliers,
pink wallpaper—Lovely Hula Hands (4057
N Mississippi Ave., 503-445-9910. Lovelyhulahands.com)
is just the right mix of ladylike parlour and ’70s
bordello, but the menu is totally modern—American
slow food highlighting local ingredients.
> Mississippi Studios (3939 N Mississippi
Ave., 503-288-3895. Mississippistudios.com), a tiny
recording studio and music hall on the site of a former
church, offers wine by the glass, local brews by the
bottle, and an intimate setting to catch local singer-songwriters
and jazz musicians.
Listen Up
Portland’s vibrant live music scene is legendary.
Three hot spots:
> Blink and you could mistake the Crystal
Ballroom (1332 W Burnside St., 503-225-0047.
Mcmenamins.com) for our own Commodore
> Doug Fir Lounge (at the Jupiter
Hotel, 830 E Burnside, 503-231-9663. Dougfirlounge.com)
hosts bands most nights in its lumberjack-meets-club-kid
basement
> Tube (18 NW Third Ave., 503-241-8823)
hosts everything from live punk rock to DJ-spun hip-hop.
It’s one of the few places in Portland where you
can smoke indoors; the 20-something crowd takes advantage.
Bed Check
Portland has a number of grand dame accommodations,
but these three recently opened, design-forward hotels
are in keeping with the city’s youthful, urban
vibe
> Hotel Lucia 400 SW Broadway,
503-225-1717, Hotellucia.com
Who stays: High-flying executives; low-lying celebs
(recently spotted: Lance Armstrong) Nice touch: Aveda
bath products, iPod docking stations (with preprogrammed
Nanos available from the front desk), and a bedside
spiritual library that includes the Koran and the Book
of Scientology. Walls are lined with photographs by
Portland native and Pulitzer Prize–winner David
Kennerly Notable neighbours: At Saucebox (214 SW Broadway,
503-241-3393. Saucebox.com), happy hour goes gourmet
in a sleekly appointed room. The Halekulani Mai Tai
is a work of art, garnished with fresh mint and a live
orchid; the fruity Poolside with David Hasselhoff cocktail
is a popular choice rooms: $149-$709
> Ace Hotel 1022 SW Stark St.,
503-228-2277, Acehotel.com/portland
Who stays: Budget-conscious hipsters; musicians on tour
Used to be: Clyde Hotel, built in 1912. Much of the
original woodwork and hardware remains—see high
ceilings, beautiful wood floors, and claw-foot tubs
Nice touch: Hand-painted murals adorn each room (check
out the whimsical illustrated mural by Evan B Harris
in the fourth-floor stairwell); headboards are made
from recycled army ponchos; suites come with Czech-manufactured
turntables and a selection of vintage vinyl from Jackpot
Records on Burnside Notable neighbours: Enamoured with
the snout-to-tail dining trend, neighbouring restaurant
Clyde Common serves dishes like smoked beef tongue with
beets, frisée, and horseradish, and a ravioli
of chicken liver, tomato, and grana. Go lowbrow and
hit up the wildly popular Kenny & Zuke’s Jewish
deli for pastrami Reubens and fried kreplach. Portland’s
celebrated Stumptown coffee has an outpost adjacent
to the lobby rooms: $95-$250
> Jupiter Hotel 800 E. Burnside,
503-230-9200, Jupiterhotel.com
Best for: 24-hour party people; couples looking for
a dirty weekend Used to be: A seedy motel built in the
1960s. Refurbished with Blu Dot, IKEA, and lots of white
paint Nice touch: Wall-size photoscapes of nature and
city views in each room, platform beds covered in shaggy
pillows, and tryst-friendly rates ($59) after midnight.
Oh, and there’s an all-night adult-toy shop set
up in one of the motel rooms Notable neighbour: Doug
Fir Lounge is a must-visit, but be sure to trip half
a block down Burnside to Le Pigeon, where 26-year-old
rock-star chef Gabriel Rucker turns out new-wave bistro
dishes in a tiny room with an open kitchen and communal
tables. Order his signature dessert: apricot cornbread
with bacon, topped with maple ice cream rooms: $94-$144
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