Shop With A Chef:Koji Zenimaru of Kingyo Izakaya

By Chris Gonzalez

SINCE ARRIVING FROM OSAKA four years ago, Koji Zenimaru has added some serious muscle to our city’s izakaya scene. Honing his craft at Guu on Robson, this energetic 30-year-old now holds court from his open kitchen at Kingyo Izakaya (871 Denman St., 604-608-1677). Nightly, diners gather to watch this sake-swilling, sword-swinging sensation serve up tantalizing Japanese tapas. “An izakaya is about the experience,” insists Koji. “My food comes from the heart. It’s not good enough that it is merely delicious; it must contribute to good times and friendship. It must be memorable.” Chef Koji scours local markets for those hard-to-find ingredients that make his food as tasty as it is authentic. The sauce for his seared beef takaki ($6.80) gets a big boost from tiny kumquat-sized yuzu he gets fresh at Angel Seafoods (1345 Grant St., 604-254-2824). “Yuzu are very Japanese,” explains chef Koji, slicing tiny portions with surgical precision. “The rind is very aromatic; a little goes a long way.” Angel Seafoods also supplies him with the fresh wasabi root for his paper-thin Sockeye salmon carpaccio ($7.80). “Freshly grated wasabi is more mild, and has much better flavour than the powders and pastes—which are everywhere.” Kingyo’s popular grilled beef tongue ($6.50) is sourced from Nikuya Meats Inc. (107-2828 E. Hasting St., 604-216-2983), which also provides Koji with his coveted Kobe beef. And the rice? He insists on using the koshihikari short grain rice from Japan Food Canada (123-14488 Knox Way, Richmond, 604-270-7575). “It takes a little more time, but it’s definitely the best. It has a beautiful sweetness to it.”

Mini Review: Gorilla Food

A take-away window between Hastings and Pender serves delicious (really!) organic, raw, vegan fare fit for primates and movie stars alike (Woody Harrelson’s a fan). Proprietor Aaron Ash’s credits include a stint in Hollywood as a hip-hopping personal chef for Beastie Boy Mike D and his wife, director Tamra Davis. Pizza and lasagna, with walnut “parmesan” and sunflower “rawcotta,” top the daily feature offerings; tasty standards include Thai fresh wraps with raisin chutney, savoury ginger nori crackers and guilt-free dark chocolate fudge. You could eat the containers and cutlery, too (they’re made of corn, wheat and sugar by-products). 422 Richards St. Open Monday to Friday, 11 a.m. - 6 p.m. Delivery available. Cash only. $ —Joanne Will

Hot Buy: Ice Big Ball

Regular ice cubes seem, well, square, once you’ve tried the Ice Big Ball tray. Available at the two-level Daiso store (where everything is $2) in the Bing Thom-designed Aberdeen Centre, the Ice Big Ball makes three nectarine-sized ice spheres that have stamina on their side. Add raspberries or lemongrass to the water to bling up summer cocktails. Or make perfect ice cream spheres. Finally, freeze water straight up for a scotch on the rocks that will keep you chillin’ well after regular cubes are water in your Lagavulin. Daiso, Aberdeen Centre, 4151 Hazelbridge Way, Richmond, 604-295-6601. Daisocanada.com —Murray Bancroft

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