|
For potent herbs like Sawtooth
coriander and Vietnamese mint, Angus An relies
on Granville Island's South China Seas Trading
Company.
Image credit: Marina
Dodis |
Shop with
a Chef: Angus An of Gastropod
By Murray Bancroft
AFTER TRAINING at the French Culinary Institute and
working in Montreal, New York and London, Angus An returned
to his home turf to open the sleek-and-chic Gastropod
(1938 W. Fourth Ave., 604-730-5579. Gastropod.ca).
As this procurement list confirms, An works, eats and
shops both east and west.
Grachai Often referred to as wild ginger,
grachai smells more like ginseng. An buys it fresh (flown
in from Thailand) at South China Seas Trading Company
(Granville Island Public Market, 1689 Johnston St.,
604-254-7470. Southchinaseas.ca)
or at the Dong Thanh Supermarket (1172 Kingsway, 604-873-8534).
Leaning on recipes from working at Nahm, a famous London
Thai eatery, An slices it thinly and wok fries it with
bruised fresh green peppercorns, garlic and chicken.
Sometimes available canned in brine, it brings an earthy
note to Thai green curry. Meyer Lemons
In California, An’s grandmother had a Meyer lemon
tree in her backyard. Whenever these tangy-sweet lemons
surface at Urban Fare (177 Davie St., 604-975-7550.
Urbanfare.com),
An scoops them up for batches of memory-evoking lemonade,
or memory-inhibiting cocktails. Sawtooth Coriander
and Vietnamese Mint Both sharper
than their Western counterparts, these herbs (from South
China Seas Trading Company) flavour An’s Thai
beef salads. Bulgar Wheat An makes
cold salads with a punch of citrus using this healthy
ancient grain. Pick it up in the bulk section of Capers
(Various locations. Capersmarkets.com).
Crispy Chicken Crackers An boils, dries,
and then fries chicken skin for a savoury snack. Served
with beer, he says, they’re well worth the effort.
He gets the skin at Chong Lee Market (3308 E. 22nd Ave.,
604-432-6880). Watch out Lesley Stowe.
| 
O'Thai's "prawns in a blanket"
make an excellent starter.
Image credit: David Jackson |
Mini Review: O Thai
By Chris Gonzalez
Ex-Manhattanite Luck Sarabhayavanija and
Chef Sanya Phromajunya (a Thai street vendor who also
perfected his craft in NYC) combine authentic Thai flavours
with high-quality ingredients and Western techniques
at their sleek and modern O Thai restaurant. Try the
“prawns in a blanket” (plump prawns wrapped
in egg roll blankets, $7) or the spicy duck salad with
pineapple and cashews ($9), before digging into the
artfully plated pad thai ($12). The wine list, while
limited, is carefully selected to enhance complex layers
of flavour: a lemongrass scented Viognier elevates the
talay pao (fresh lobster and assorted seafood, with
mango julienne and spicy citrus dressing, $24); panaeng
($11), feisty red curry with prawns, green beans and
kaffir lime leaves, pairs perfectly with a lychee-nosed
Gewürztraminer. 1626 W. Broadway, South Granville,
604-731-4888. Othai.ca.
$$-$$$
|
Hot Buy: Alessi Citrus Reamer
$20
I make the same mental checklist
buying toys for my kitchen as I do buying toys
for my 18-month-old daughter—looks good,
works well, wood is good, no batteries or spare
parts that will break. I’ll use a mortar
and pestle over a food processor every time. For
top marks in both form and function, it’s
hard to beat the Alessi citrus reamer. The simple,
Cherry-wood tool is as sleek as a 1950s Italian
speedboat and makes its way through a half-lemon
faster than a diamond drill. Available at Inform
Interiors, 50 Water St., Gastown, 604-682-3868.—M.B.
|
BACK TO FOOD AND DRINK HOME
|
SUBSCRIBE 
