Shop with a Chef: Jean-Christophe Poirier, Chow

By Rebecca Philps

Every two weeks Sloping Hills Farm in Qualicum Beach delivers a whole pig to Chow restaurant on South Granville. Chef Jean-Christophe (J.C.) Poirier, formerly of Montreal’s Toqué, Lumière and C, butchers and prepares his own charcuterie—terrines, sausages, cured ham. “And we use every part of the pig, from snout to tail. Tonight’s special might be pork belly, tomorrow maybe pork shoulder.” This speaks to J.C.’s philosophy of buying from local producers and changing his menu weekly, even daily, depending on what’s fresh and available. A whole pig may be overkill, but for other top-quality, locally sourced ingredients, read on: J.C. visits The Lobster Man on Granville Island (1807 Mast Tower Rd., 604-687-4531) for fresh shellfish—“Mussels will be back on our menu for fall now that the water is cold enough, and he’s got the best selection, fresh from the tank.” Chow’s cheese platters feature all regional cheeses, but J.C.’s favourite is from The Farm House in Agassiz—“It’s their Castle Blue that is so wicked.” Save the trip and pick it up at Les Amis du Fromage (1752 W. Second Ave., 604-732-4218). For “the best sourdough in the city” head to Swiss Bakery (143 E. Third Ave., 604-736-8785). And for dessert? “La Grotta del Formaggio (1791 Commercial Dr., 604-255-3911) has this amazing Vincotto vinegar—it’s aged in the bottle like wine, and it’s so syrupy and sweet.” Pour it over vanilla ice cream for a simple but decadent end to a meal.

Mini Review: Moccia's

A couple of doors from Dayton Boots is an East Van classic featuring traditional artisan salami, made on the premises. Former industrial engineer Claudio Urbani came to the realization that sausage equals happiness; sons Giordano and Stefano also get it, and they want you to get it, too. Ask them nicely and they will ply you with samples of their astonishing dry-cured pork products—pancetta, salami prosciutto, sopressa, coppa. My favourite is the friulano, flavoured with wine and garlic. Given a glass of wine, a few friends will make short work of your supply. And I haven’t even mentioned the Cappone Roll—seasoned boneless roasting chicken stuffed with house-made sausage and veal loin. Can you say instant dinner party? Moccia’s is on the verge of stardom (their products feature prominently at Salt Tasting Room), and there are rumours of expansion, but if you hurry you can claim to have discovered it. 2276 E. Hastings St., Hastings Sunrise, 604-255-2032; Moccia.ca —David Scholefield

Hot Buy: Microplane zester, $22

The Microplane zester/grater, a chef’s best friend in the kitchen—J.C. Poirier keeps one tucked in his apron strings like a six-shooter—turns out perfect shavings of citrus zest, chocolate, coconut, nutmeg, ginger, garlic, and especially hard cheeses. With patented edges originally designed for shaving wood, and blades made from surgical-grade stainless steel, this little beauty can grate through
anything with total precision. At Ming Wo, 2170 W. Fourth Ave., Kitsilano, 604-737-2624, and other Lower Mainland locations. Mingwo.com—R.P

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