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Shop with a Chef:
Mahtab Saraf, Kashcool
By Anna Moorhouse
Before opening Kashcool in North Vancouver eight years
ago, chef Mahtab Saraf ran a popular Gastown coffee
shop on Water Street whose regulars included Bruce Allen
and Bryan Adams. But she couldn’t be happier now
that she has her own Persian restaurant (albeit one
that’s located on an unpromising-looking stretch
of Pemberton Avenue). “My husband’s father
had a restaurant in Iran 40 years ago with the same
name, so this is really the second restaurant.”
All her recipes are generations old, including her celebrated
kebabs, which were served at the first incarnation of
Kashcool. Although she makes the occasional trip back
to Iran, Saraf finds most of her ingredients closer
to home, in the “Little Persia” section
of North Van. For tender cuts of chicken and lamb, she
relies on Olympia Meats (120 W. Third
St., North Vancouver, 604-988-8100). For spices like
saffron or somagh (a lemony spice that’s difficult
to find even in Iran), she shops at Persia Food
Products (126 W. 15th St., North Vancouver,
604-985-2288). Twice a week, she walks a few blocks
down Pemberton to Afra Bakery (1521
Pemberton Ave., 604-987-7454) where she picks up fresh
sangak (Iranian flatbread), best served alongside a
steaming bowl of fesenjan—a pomegranate and walnut
stew that she simmers for four hours to bring out the
nutty natural oils. She’ll also head to Yaas
Bakery (1860 Lonsdale Ave., 604-990-9006) in
search of lavosh flatbread, which she likes to pair
with gheymeh, another hearty stew of eggplant and yellow
split peas—comfort food for a wintery night.
Mini Review: Say Cheesecake
Styled as a 1950s Parisian cafe, Cheesecake
Etc., the sweet haven near the Granville Bridge created
by husband-and-wife jazz musicians Mike and Edith Sims,
bursts at the seams on Saturday nights. Heavy on the
“Cheesecake” and light on the “Etc.,”
the menu admittedly lacks variety (plain or chocolate
cake, with or without a helping of berries, $4-6) but
more than makes up for it in mouth-watering quality:
the cakes are dense enough to support the Eiffel Tower
and flavourful enough to make you forget how much you
love tiramisu. Doe-eyed couples tend to linger at the
candlelit tables, so expect to wait for a seat. If you
can’t, whole cheesecakes and fixings ($25-$30)
are available for takeout. (So are copies of the owners’
self-produced CD, Cheesecake, which features a Louis
Armstrong wannabe singing—you guessed it—a
tune called “Cheesecake.”) Open nightly,
7p.m. to 1 a.m., cash only. 2141 Granville St., 604-734-7704.
Hot Buy: Chef’n Palm Peeler, $8
David Holcomb, the brains behind the Seattle-based
housewares company Chef’n, has had heaps of praise
for his innovative fruit-and-veggie peeler, including
a nod from the 2007 Housewares Design Awards, the Design
Distinction Award from International Design Magazine’s
Annual Review, and most recently an International Design
Excellence Awards gold medal. Why is a peeler getting
so much attention? Because it is to peeling vegetables
what Edward Scissorhands is to trimming hedges: automatic.
The stainless steal blade is razor sharp and the rubber
grip gracefully fits the contours of your palm. Available
in avocado, tangerine, cherry, and sunflower. Cookworks
($8), 1548 W. Broadway, 604-731-1148; 377 Howe St.,
604-662-4918.
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