Sea Urchin

A reminder that cooking is art. Sea urchin tongues are baked au gratin with rich chunks of smoked sablefish, geoduck, crab, and other assorted shellfish, brightened with fresh yuzu, and served in the spiky urchin shell on a blanket of sea-salt snow. Tojo’s, 1133 W. Broadway, 604-872-8050. Tojos.com