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Restaurant

Argo Café

October 9, 2009
South Main
1836 Ontario St.
Vancouver
604-876-3620
Directions

Vancouver has plenty of homages to 1950s lunch counters, but the Argo is the real deal. Half a century of diners’ elbows bear their own testimony, having worn visible marks into the café’s lime green arborite countertop. The stools, booths, and other decor have changed little. The menu definitely has. French and Chinese influences accent the menu, thanks to chef Denis Larouche and his co-owner, brother-in-law Kirby Wong. Neighbourhood auto-body mechanics and industrial designers cram in for workday lunches of wasabi-and-sesame-crusted seared tuna ($10 with sides) and duck confit ($10), along with diner standards like burgers. The food makes you feel like an exec with an expense account, but the prices are pure working-class. Misceladoro coffee: $1.50, with free refills (when eating). Breakfast is served from 7 to 11. The hefty breakfast platter includes one meat, two eggs, French toast or pancake, toast, and potatoes, for $7.25.

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