Vancouver Magazine

A dining room unlike any other in the city, built upon the palpable enthusiasm of the eponymous young owner and chef. Where else will you be expansively served produce grown in a tiny guerrilla garden a few blocks away, plated on Versace china, with Frank Sinatra crooning away in the background? West Coast staples get unexpected treatment, with mixed results (the astringency of pickled mushrooms overwhelms the salmon appetizer ($18), but the sablefish ($39) snuggles happily into its bed of ratatouille). The pork chop ($38), infused with the gingery sweetness of cardamom, is big enough to feed a small family. The wine list is considered, the desserts excellent, the overall experience happily eccentric.