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Restaurant

Lupo Restaurant

December 21, 2009
Lupo Restaurant
869 Hamilton Street
Vancouver
604-569-2535
Directions

As Villa del Lupo, this charming 19th-century heritage mansion set the standard for Italian cuisine in the ’90s before new owners let it die an ignominious death last year. Enter original owner/chef Julio Gonzalez-Perini and partner Michael Mameli (ex-CinCin & Cioppino’s) who have conjured a value-forward, modern space without sacrificing any of its turn-of-the-century charm. The original fireplace and stained glass remains, but bright white walls, a smart soundtrack (everything from ’70s-era Bowie to Feist) and savvy wine picks fuel a more casual conviviality. For less than you would spend at a chain restaurant, dig into cinnamon-scented lamb shank osso buco with saffron risotto (just $20) or a deep bowl of squid ink spaghetti with calamari duo ($18) on a menu where only hulking lamb chops with Sicilian caponata top the $25 mark ($26, at that). An early prix-fixe (two courses for $28, three for $37) and expedient service make it an attractive pre-event destination.

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