Vancouver Magazine

With the economic downturn eating away at his fine-dining bottom line, owner-chef Angus An of Kitsilano’s Gastropod (2007 Best New Fine Dining) shut down his sleek foodie favourite last March to open the much livelier and more affordable Maenam in its place. Anchored by a superb bar program, Maenam (which translates as “mother water”) dishes some of the most authentic Thai food Vancouver has yet seen. An, who trained under chef David Thompson at the world’s only Michelin starred Thai restaurant (Nahm in London), applies his affections for locally sourced and seasonal ingredients to the traditions of the Thai royal house. Beyond the real-deal pad Thai (no ketchup), aim for the dreamily aromatic cloudy hot-and-sour prawn soup; the spicy-salty-sour salad of mint and cilantro tossed with grilled onglet; and green curry halibut enlivened with bamboo, grachai, and holy basil. One of the most exciting and original restaurants to open this year.