Restaurant
Pied-à-Terre
October 9, 2009
Andrey Durbach (along with his business partner Chris Stewart) has quietly cornered the mid-range market, consistently filling his tucked-away neighbourhood rooms, even midweek. The third room in his burgeoning empire (which includes La Buca and L’Altro Buca) is Pied-à-Terre, a 34-seat modern French bistro on Cambie Street—the name a nod to its bijoux dimensions. The food, however, is on a grand scale. All the classics are here; start with Durbach’s famous, decadently creamy foie gras parfait ($12) or baked stuffed mussels with chorizo and garlic butter ($11) before moving on to roast saddle of rabbit with chestnuts, sage, and red wine jus ($24) or a deeply satisfying grilled rack of lamb with jus Niçois ($27). The lunch-time table d’hôte menu offers three courses for $24—astounding value.
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