Restaurant
Tojo’s
October 8, 2009
Perennial winner of the Vancouver magazine award for Best Formal Japanese, Hidekazu Tojo has recited his brand of Japanese seafood haiku for about 35 years. At the dramatic (and pleasingly quiet) premises on Broadway, signatures of local albacore tuna with sesame marinade, shrimp dumplings with hot mustard sauce, lightly steamed monkfish, and sautéed halibut cheeks shine. A sake bar, omakaze bar, and tatami rooms rim the room. Stars and moguls abound—bring money if you want to keep up. Sushi barstools are amongst most coveted in town, and sushi is what Tojo is renowned for. But he works magic on the stovetop too: witness his smoked black cod in a slightly sweet broth, gossamer tempura-battered albacore tuna, and sea urchin tongues baked au gratin with rich chunks of smoked sablefish, geoduck, crab, brightened with fresh yuzu and served in the spiky urchin shell on a blanket of sea-salt snow.
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