Restaurant
Two Chefs and a Table
October 9, 2009
If gentrification means more restaurants like Allan Bosomworth and Karl Gregg’s Railtown room, then sign us up. The neighbourhood is still grittier than a sand sandwich, but bold flavours from the open kitchen elevate this bare-bones 30-seater—with its cheery white walls, high ceilings, and large windows—beyond its dubious surroundings. Find plentiful portions for a pittance during a bustling lunch service that sees locals munching happily on chicken and Brie grilled croque-monsieur ($8) and mac and cheese with sharp cheddar crust ($8). The pace slows dramatically at dinner as guests savour ever-changing five-course chef’s table menus for a scant $44. Watch for citrusy scallop ceviche redolent of fresh coriander, spaghettini in a lusty beef and sangiovese ragu, and a knockout sablefish collar in a braised tomato and olive broth. The selection of beer, wine, and spirits is proud but few. Fluffy berry pancakes with vanilla butter is a brunch must.
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