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Restaurant

Fuel

October 9, 2009
Fuel
1944 W. Fourth Ave.
Vancouver
604-288-7905
Directions

In a room that showcases the kitchen brigade—chefs are always chopping and dicing in full view—unpretentious fine food is the ticket. Proprietor-chef Robert Belcham (he of the sturdy stature and mulitcoloured tattoos) devises and executes plates of such deceptive simplicity that he was named Vancouver magazine’s chef of the year for 2008. His specialty is pork (belly, loin, shoulder, cheek), but he has a way with everything from Walla Walla onion soup to halibut from the Queen Charlotte Islands. And every Friday at lunch he does a buttermilk fried chicken (Redbro breed from Polderside Farms) with biscuits and gravy that redefines the dish. Sommelier-partner Tom Doughty knows his grapes, and his concise wine list beautifully complements Belcham’s short, focused menu.

 

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