Restaurant
Mistral
October 9, 2009
Mistral is husband-and-wife team Minna and Jean-Yves Benoit’s accessible Provençal bistro, with food writ big (on chalkboards and in flavour). To begin, a trifecta of Mediterranean black-olive spread, purée of creamed cod, and anchovy-garlic dipping sauce ($8.50). Benoit, Michelin-starred in his native France, delivers a pissaladière as thin as those eating it, but as characterful, too—it’s neatly groomed with caramelized onions, anchovies, and olives ($11). The lamb daube in red wine with olives, mushrooms, and pearl onions ($24) puts paid to rainy autumn nights. An artful if brief wine list highlights the south of France and British Columbia; a small patio runs the gauntlet of busy West Broadway.
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