Restaurant
The Shore Club
October 8, 2009
The newest and most expensive restaurant in the David Aisenstat empire sits pretty on the corner of Dunsmuir and Granville. It’s just as busy as Holt Renfrew across the street and is just a few cow lengths from his premier steakhouse, Gotham. Designer Elaine Thorsell has put together a multistoried beauty with a classic ocean liner look, complete with white-jacketed service staff, lush fabrics, dark colours (blues and greens evocative of warm evenings at sea), and grey-veined Bianca Carrera marble. The food? Little we haven’t tried before, but it’s tight and well executed, if unoriginal. Must-tries include a macadamia nut-encrusted monster fillet of halibut ($31) served simply and immaculately with only a chive beurre blanc (sides are extra) and a miraculous puff pastry-encased salmon Wellington ($29) that melts on contact. The wine list is deeply stacked, as is the service.
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