Let's Do Brunch

If most restaurant meals have an agenda—a deal-making business lunch, or a seduction over candlelight—that curious hybrid known as brunch might well be the most guileless of them all. Or is it?

By Jamie Maw, Joie Alvaro Kent, Chris Gonzalez, Lee Man, Andrew Morrison and the editors

BEST SENSORY ASSAULT: NU
1661 Granville St., Downtown, 604-646-4668. Whatisnu.com
The mighty Pacific licks quietly at the pilings just beneath, while across the moat False Creek shoppers busy themselves with weekend exertions. At Nu, find the best eggs Benedict ($12) in the city, the yolks sunshine yellow, the back bacon as gently salty as the jazz stylings of singer Karen Holness. The menu goes upscale too: a hash of pork belly and potatoes ($13), a transcendent brioche French toast ($12), fried oysters ($4), or an omelette of Brie and black truffle with preserved figs and Port ($15). Fabulous drinks, sultry music, killer views—an unspoken sermon on just what we love about this city.—J.M.


BEST PLACE TO READ SUNDAY PAPERS: DIVA AT THE MET
645 Howe St., Downtown, 604-602-7788. Metropolitan.com/diva
Unless one is a surrogate NHL statistician, Vancouver does not enjoy a quality Sunday read. But my Sunday New York Times thunks authoritatively on the door stoop by 7 p.m. every Saturday evening, and the best place to read it is at Diva on a Sunday morning. In addition to brunch-time panaceas such as honey-roasted almond granola ($8) lies a dish that defines our city’s Pacific place: black cod hash with poached eggs and a swirl of scallion oil ($16). It is rich but pure, sings seaward and just loudly enough to be overheard at the next table: “What is that?” our dining neighbours always ask.—J.M.


BEST FOR PINCHING PENNIES: CALVIN'S CAFE
2452 Marine Dr., West Vancouver, 604-922-4222
This tiny spot in West Van has an easygoing community feel during the week, but can quickly become an asylum of wet wool and Gore-Tex on Sunday mornings. It’s the cheapest restaurant in Dundarave, and it offers standard daily quiches and consistently good omelettes that often lure walk-ins away from the excellent crêpes. But stick with your gut instinct and go for the Crêpe Princess: filled with spinach and Swiss cheese and served with real-deal hollandaise, it’s a steal for a measly $8.50 (all brunch items are the same price). Coffee refills are as timely as the service, which is breakneck at best and genuine at worst.—A.M.

BEST REASON TO GET UP EARLY: SEB'S MARKET CAFE
592 E. Broadway, Mount Pleasant, 604-298-4403. Hotstuffcatering.com
Brunch at Seb’s Market Café draws such a loyal weekend crowd that regulars will actually nix a sleep-in to avoid the long lines. Delicacies streaming out of the open kitchen include the strawberry and Camembert omelette ($9.95) or the seared elk Benny ($9.95) served atop savoury biscuits with chipotle and wild berry hollandaise. On sunny days a smoke-free patio provides extra seats for this tiny room that threatens to burst at the seams during peak hours.—C.G.


BEST EXCUSE TO GO BACK TO BED: BACCHUS
845 Hornby St., Downtown, 604-608-5319. Wedgewoodhotel.com
At Bacchus, smooth last night’s excesses with an apricot royale ($9.75) then move robustly into a duck confit hash made with fingerling potatoes ($15). Housemade lamb sausages combine with fried eggs ($17) to describe chef Lee Parsons’ British resume. The morning mood is soporific at Bacchus but the service never snoozy. In other words, you are relaxed and ready to embrace the day, or the one you love. Take heed, and return immediately to your room upstairs, recently renovated, just like you.—J.M.


BEST PLACE TO EXTEND A ROMANCE: THE SALMON HOUSE
2229 Folkestone Way, West Vancouver, 604-926-3212. Salmonhouse.com
If your Saturday night date was a pleasure, this mountainside aerie (now 30 years in business) is an ideal venue to exchange longing gazes: the views of Burrard Inlet, Stanley Park and the city skyline are so spectacular they might strike even the broker-belt ladies of West Van speechless. Aim for the generous Folkestone Benny with ham and goat cheese ($17), or slurp fresh local oysters ($12/half dozen) if you want to get right back at it.—A.M.


BEST OASIS ON A SEEDY STRIP: THE TEMPLETON
1087 Granville St., Downtown, 604-685-4612
The Templeton plays on the innocence of a simpler time even if it’s sandwiched by sex shops and nightclubs. Sink down into the vinyl in the tall boy booths where your Wonder Woman-themed tabletop promotes a miniature jukebox. A sling of tofu scrambler ($8) carries subtle curry seasoning and a side of rosemary spuds, but the disarmingly casual servers claim it’s the mangled eggs ($8) with Montreal Brie in a flaky toasted croissant that the regulars love.—Eds.

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