EATING & DRINKING: APRIL 2007

Let's Do Brunch — Page 3

Provence Marinaside: After a serving of the city’s best French toast, you might consider a jaunt along the Yaletown seawall right outside the front door. Or not.

Image credit: Shannon Mendes


BEST REASON TO FORGET THAT CLEANSE: PROVENCE MARINASIDE

1177 Marinaside Cres., Yaletown, 604-681-4144. Provencevancouver.com/marinaside
Two words: French toast. Provence Marinaside Grill makes a French toast ($10) with soft baguette, cinnamon sugar and whipping cream so mind-flayingly splendid it’s worthy of its own religion. Paper-thin Parisian crêpes stuffed with fresh seafood ($15) and beef tenderloin with peppercorn sauce and salty frites ($22) delight, but experts go straight to the restorative fish soup ($8). Bay windows and a wraparound patio offer striking False Creek views; the warm pastry basket ($9) brims with croissants, good butter and preserves.—C.G.

 

BEST PLACE TO INDULGE YOUR SWEET TOOTH: PATISSERIE LEBEAU
1728 W. Second Ave., Kitsilano, 604-731-3528
Waffle aficionados crush Penny and Olivier Lebeau’s patisserie early on Saturday mornings for gaufres de Bruxelles. Limited seating sees frequent but fast-moving queues. Toppings change seasonally and include poached pear, caramel and warm cinnamon apple compote ($3). If you miss the Saturday sugar rush, gaufres de Liège ($2.80) are available throughout the week. Pearl sugar, imported from Belgium, gives these waffles a unique crispness; popular flavours include white chocolate almond and dark chocolate chip or cinnamon apple. The croissants (possibly the best in the city) and pain au chocolate are terrific, as is the savoury quiche Lorraine ($5.64) or brie- and-chicken Waffle Sandwich ($5.60). Lebeau waffles are also available in the freezer section of Meinhardt.—J.A.K.

 


Big Box Brunches


They are the usual suspects, where bloody Caesars and hollandaise run rife. For the most part, they rely on their locations, riding easy in the knowledge that the punter legions will come. And boy, do they ever. Summer at Bridges Restaurant remains magnetic for tourists and Granville Island shoppers even though its popular if predictable brunches can sometimes be rushed. On the North Shore, at the Beach House at Dundarave Pier the menu is as you might expect (except for the delicious free croissants—just ask the busser in the crumb-covered uniform). Both the Sequoia Grill in Stanley Park and Seasons in the Park offer more imaginative plates: at the former, soak up the ocean view with a Tintoretto flute (champers and pomegranate), while the latter sits best after a halcyon walk in the gardens of Queen Elizabeth Park. Try the Hunan pork sandwiches with caramelized onions, lathered in sandy Dijon. Come late May, all of these long-established spots morph into high-turnover operations (complete with harried hostesses and parking challenges), so treat this month as the best time to take advantage of their charms, minus the hordes.—A.M.




 


BEST PLACE TO GO ON ISLAND TIME: THE REEF
4172 Main St., South Main, 604-874-5375. Thereefrestaurant.com
Hipster Main Street denizens crowd The Reef for brunch with a raucous and lively reggae vibe. Harry Belafonte would love their version of the national dish—ackee and salt cod ($12) rings true (cooked ackee fruit is virtually identical to scrambled eggs, without the cholesterol). Scan the specials board for the Daily Blaff—it features dishes such as smoked marlin Benny with roasted tomato hollandaise and cilantro ($9). Set your palate ablaze with Matouk’s Hot Pepper Sauce from Trinidad and wash it all down with a sparkling glass of Ting ($4.50), a refreshing Jamaican grapefruit soda.—J.A.K.



BEST HANGOVER CURE: SOLLY'S BAGELS
2873 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-738-2121; 189 E. 28th Ave., South Main, 604-872-1821; 368 W. 7th Ave., Mount Pleasant, 604-675-9750. Sollysbagels.com
Any breakfast joint can slap egg and cheese between two pieces of bread (or worse, on a soggy English muffin); only Solly’s serves The Eggel: a puck of fluffy scrambled egg, tucked under a thick blanket of melted edam or cheddar cheese, sprinkled with paprika, and served on a Jewish bagel. Solly’s makes a version with lox and another with hot pastrami but, frankly, they’re a little excessive. It’s not the fillings that make the eggel one of the city’s best breakfast sandwiches but the perfectly dense bagel foundation. Ordered before 10:30 a.m. the eggel can be had with coffee or tea for a very reasonable $4.75.—Eds.

 

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