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Let's Do Brunch — Page 4
The Best Dim Sum
By Lee Man
Want to feel smug? Take an out-of-town visitor to a
dim sum lunch and blow them away with the quality and
selection of the food that hits the table—our
dim sum is in a league of its own because local Chinese
diners are smart and demanding. So look like an old
pro: show up with a reservation, and when asked what
kind of tea you would like, floral jasmine is always
a good choice, oolong for something darker and tannic.
Restaurants fall into two camps: ordering from the menu
is preferred by diners who want absolute freshness;
the more familiar trolley service is favoured by self-paced
gluttons. Pricing is competitive; $20 per person should
be ample.
KIRIN
A hat trick: top-notch food, well-practiced service
and tasteful surroundings. The Cantonese cooking ideals
of simplicity and freshness are applied to local ingredients
with just the right twist of innovation. Order from
the seasonally updated dim sum menu or look to the wait
staff to provide sure-handed guidance. Rice noodle rolls
with scallops and asparagus are models of the craft;
spring rolls get a textured jolt of green freshness
from sugar snap peas; deep-fried tofu skins envelope
sweetly tender shrimp. 102-1166 Alberni St., West
End, 604-682-8833; Second Floor, City Square, 555 W.
12th Ave., South Cambie, 604-879-8038. Kirinrestaurant.com
SUN SUI WAH
Carts laden with fresh dim sum combined with attentive
table service keeps this institution busy. Watch Hong
Kong expats discretely pass out lucky red envelopes
during Chinese New Year. Shrimp sui mai is luxurious
with a generous topping of crab; steamed beef riblets
are richly succulent. If you’re the least bit
curious about chicken feet, this is the place to try
them. The baked tapioca pudding is the best in the city.
If you don’t see what you want on the carts, the
waiters will be happy to hunt down any dim sum quarry
for you. 3888 Main St., South Main, 604-872-8822.
Sunsuiwah.com
DAI TUNG
Crammed with boisterous families looking for value,
Dai Tung channels the spirit of old dim sum palaces
like the Golden Crown. The carts come fast and furious
and the steady turnover ensures freshness. The execution
is near flawless. Chinese calamari are hot, crisp and
remarkably greaseless. Steamed prawn dumplings, studded
with corn, burst with sweet flavour. The house special
of cold-poached chicken is subtly spiced and served
on the bone, achieving the convincing marriage of texture
and flavour. Service is frenetic but friendly. 108-1050
Kingsway, South Vancouver, 604-872-2268.
SHANGHAI RIVER
This gorgeous room is favoured by the wealthy mainland
Chinese for authentic northern Chinese-style dim sum
(the menu has helpful pictures). Steamed pork soup buns
(Xiao Long Bao) are the cornerstone of this style of
cooking and Shanghai River’s version are bursting
with intense consommé. Sesame flat breads stuffed
with sweetly sauced pork and insanely flakey shredded
daikon pastries highlight regional breadmaking skills.
A simple dish of celery and strips of pressed tofu is
made ethereal by a toasted sesame dressing. Service
is courteous and knowledgeable. 110-7831 Westminster
Hwy., Richmond, 604-233-8885.
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