On My List

Five of the city’s top sommeliers reveal their wine secrets.

By Christina Burridge; illustrations by Matthew Green

BRENT HAYMAN, RAINCITY GRILL
1193 Denman St., West End; 604-685-7337

The Bio Started out in the trucking industry but wanted a profession that was portable so settled on bartending. Wine experience came along the way—especially at The Cannery—from customers, travel, books, studying and, above all, tasting.

The List 500-plus bottles, all from the West Coast. Ten years ago 85 percent of sales were from California; now 85 percent are from B.C., with local wines embraced by Vancouverites and visitors alike. Once had 120 wines by the glass but recently cut back to 60.

The Price $30-$600 but mostly good value wines under $100. Generally marked-up 100 percent, with market price for reserve and rare wines. Laughing Stock’s pinot gris ($46), Craig Jaffur’s Santa Barbara viognier ($90) and John Thomas’s Dundee Hills Oregon pinot noir ($185) are typical.

The Philosophy Wines that match what the kitchen, with its strong regional focus, delivers—getting back to our roots is important. Customers are “aware and keen,” really open to trying something new and want more than chardonnay—“we turn them on to pinot noir and riesling.”

How Green? Most labels are from small lot producers who farm sustainably, though not all call it organic. Tried sourcing an organic-only list but the definitions are “too confusing.” Customers don’t usually ask about organic though some want to know about sulfites.

At Home Cooks a lot, especially seafood on the grill, drinking lots of grüner veltliner and rosé, Italian and Spanish reds.


KURTIS KOLT, SALT TASTING ROOM
45 Blood Alley, Gastown; 604-633-1912

The Bio Started bussing at the Fish House and later reconnected with Barb Philip, their long-time sommelier. The more wines, the more fascinating it all became. Took a course from Mark Davidson and Park Heffelfinger but mainly “learning as I go.”

The List 17 sherries, a dozen “stickies” (dessert wines), 25 bottles on the reserve list plus “whatever’s kicking around.” 25 wines by the glass.

The Price $35-$150, with by the glass from $8-$15. $13-$15 range sells well because customers know these are interesting wines. Mark-up is generally 100 percent, less as the bottles get more expensive “because everyone likes a bargain.”

The Philosophy A wide range of styles to go with the big, bold flavours on the plates, mainly aromatic whites and big, meaty reds. Wine savvy clientele “let us choose at least half the time.” The sherries need a hand sell. “Harvey’s Bristol Cream is all most people know but once they try the citrusy-salty Lustau Jarana Fino, they try more. It’s not education but educating people is part of it.”

How Green? Salt’s a green building with a green roof and geothermal heating. The bottles go to the Alley neighbours. “People do sometimes ask about biodynamic farming or organic wines but mainly they know our wines are the equivalent of indie music or movies, not the safe choice offered by big brands.”

At Home Hardly ever eats at home, maybe some sausage from Oyama and cheese from Les Amis du Fromage or take out from Rangoli. Likes Kits Wine Cellar and picks something that’s good value, maybe an earthy Old World red from the Languedoc.

ANDREW WONG, WILD RICE
117 W. Pender St., Chinatown; 604-642-2882

The Bio Started out as barman at The Cannery in the late 1980s with a wine fresh sheet every Monday. Bud Kanke insisted on food and wine pairings for the staff every Thursday. Wong still does this at Wild Rice at least once a month.

The List “A small restaurant needs a small list.” Usually about 38 or 40 bottles, with 17 or so wines by the glass, changing on a regular basis. A global list, about one-third local. Once could only sell B.C. whites but now the reds sell too—even at more than $10 a glass. “Oliver is hot—and the wines are rich and ripe.”

The Price $30-$100. By the glass and at the lower end, the mark-up is double; after $50, a flat fee of $25, because there’s no extra service even if the bottle costs $100. L’Ecole No. 41 merlot is $83—and people snap it up to go with the braised wild boar.

The Philosophy Boutique wines that match the flavours of the kitchen. Specializes in wines people have never heard of. Fairview Cellars cab merlot at $50 is typical—a great, carefully crafted B.C. red. “Hockey season regulars now make summer trips to the Okanagan to buy wines they tried here.”

How Green? “Organic has finally hit the frontal lobes of consciousness.” People who shop at Whole Foods, Capers and Choices want the same kind of sustainable farming practices, whether that’s B.C., Oregon or the Languedoc.

At Home A bit of everything: “Last night, Poplar Grove Reserve; the night before, a half bottle of Hollick Coonawarra cab merlot. I’ll be flipping to whites any day now.”


SEBASTIEN LE GOFF, LUMIERE
2551 W. Broadway, Kitsilano; 604-739-8185

The Bio Born in Brittany, home of Muscadet, worked in import and export, caught the wine bug in a restaurant in Singapore, imported Burgundy and Rhone wines into Hong Kong, attained sommelier designation in Toronto in 2001 then moved to Vancouver.

The List 300 labels, roughly 60 percent Old World and 40 percent New World. List starts with those closest, B.C., and ends with the furthest away, Australia. 33 half bottles to give more choice. Currently six whites, seven reds and three sparkling by the glass and to go with the tasting menus.

The Price $45 to $4,500 (Penfolds 1962 Bin 60A). Mark-ups have come down with the wine cost, now about 40 percent. “All restaurants make money on wine, but the price has to be fair.” Torres Celeste 2004 Ribera del Duero ($62) and Vieux Télégraphe white Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($118) are typical.

The Philosophy Wines that go with the tasting menus, the room and the atmosphere. French is really popular; the Rhone is huge. Spain is surprisingly big. “If customers want white wine with red meat, we can do it.”

How Green? Asking for organic wine is definitely new, “though most people are thinking of their own health more than the health of the planet.” The producers on the list are naturally farmers, who are committed to sustainable farming and leaving the estate in good conditions, and they manipulate the wine less in the cellar.

At Home Rarely eats at home, but favourite drinking is Italian reds and riesling plus bubbles with take-out sushi.

GEORGE PIPER, EARLS
Various Locations; 604-990-6205

The Bio Vice president of purchasing at Earls until he told his boss that the wine program was “an embarrassment.” Got the job of improving it instead of semi-retirement (he’d been with Earls for 30 years) . Drinking wine was a hobby, now it’s “a paid hobby.” Learned by reading, talking and drinking.

The List About 55 wines: the Earls’ house wines (from the Perrin family in the Rhone and Lindemans in Australia), a two tier One-Price list and a reserve list (mainly big, rich reds). All by the glass except the reserve wines, most of which are B.C., California and Aussie labels. Arranged by flavour elements—“clean, crisp and lively” or “big, ripe and full.” Mainly New World. Customers are very astute and ready to experiment. House wines used to be more than half the sales; now they’re less than one third. Yellow Tail is huge but Quails’ Gate’s gewürztraminer is also a big seller because it goes so well with the spicy, ethnic-inspired food on the menu.

The Price The two tiers of the One-Price list are $30 and $33. Reserve wines run from $39 to $62. The Reserve list is only about five percent of sales but really important to Earls’ reputation. “Customers are definitely stepping up to better wines.”

The Philosophy Making Earls the best wine destination in casual restaurant market. A wine-friendly menu and a reputation for really good value. Good glassware. Well-trained staff. Developing new partnerships with producers like Vincor for more exclusive wines.

How Green? Customers looking for wines that taste good; if sustainable too, that’s a bonus.

At Home “This and that”—but current favourite is Glaetzer’s Heartland Shiraz from the Barossa Valley.

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