Best Other European: Senova

Long-starved for quality dining opportunities, Kerrisdale finally found it in Manuel Fereira’s Senova (Gold) and the winning wines and foods that describe his native Portugal. Now salt cod brandades and vinho verdes, chorizo and aromatic Douros feed the Hermès-scarved and a capella Crofton House PTA meetings. “The cuisine of the sun is as billed,” said a judge, “now that this warmly inviting restaurant has settled in for a long run.” The William Tell (Silver) has not only survived the generational change, but has flourished. Pre-theatre table d’hote meals are reasonably priced, but “it’s the Sunday evening Swiss Farmer’s Buffet that draws us back,” said one judge, “and the private dining for groups is among the best in town.” Victoria’s Paprika Bistro’s house-made charcuterie and lamb pistou won our critics over for Bronze this year; the pretty Estevan Point Room is what one judge called “the ideal neighbourhood restaurant.” A decade ago, Sean Heather began the first restaurant, The Irish Heather (Honourable Mention), in his now-booming chainlet, which is still acknowledged for sturdy Irish country cookery and the best pour of Guinness west of the Liffey, while La Bodega (Honourable Mention) was signaled for “the kidneys, the tripe, the snails, the blood sausage and all the other unfashionable and unpretentious dishes the kitchen does so well.”

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