Best Bistro/Brasserie: La Régalade

Determinedly playing the French card, the Rayé family expanded their horizons this year, opening Côté Mer in Fisherman’s Cove. But their home base, La Régalade (Gold) continues strongly, dishing rusticated terrines and cornichons, cocottes of navarin d’agneau and pots of dusky onion soup. The warm herring and potato salad, followed by chicken fricassée with lemon confit, are rainy day friends, commented a judge. Follow with the pouf of Paris-Brest dessert for bistro nirvana, said another. At Chambar (Silver) you may have to battle past the always-stacked bar, where inventive cocktails and hockey handicapping are dispensed, for chef Nico Schuermans’ fabulous lamb tagine or moules frites. Also saluted: the exemplary bouillabaisse, duck breast and Belgian beers. Bistro Pastis (Bronze) is where proprietor John Blakeley plies his French card brought to the coast, serving unforced charm and warm classics with a determined patois. Elixir (Honourable Mention) serves exemplary classics—like a perfect frisée salad with bacon and a poached egg—along with a willingness to explore the cuts of French country cuisine. Pissaladière and daube au boeuf are standouts at Mistral (Honourable Mention) where the Benoits are relaxed and consummate hosts.

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