Best Seafood: C Restaurant

C Restaurant (Gold) has long had a hammerlock on this category for being, without a doubt, the most environmentally active restaurant in the region. C remains unmatched in its ardent authenticity and representation of all that B.C. has to offer. Under the continued tutelage of Harry Kambolis and Rob Clark (now joined by Quang Dang), it serves up a philosophy as inspiring as its dishes are delicious. Other judges agree, recognizing seemingly simple but resonant seafood cooking, matched with seamless service—not to mention the professionally choreographed delivery of dishes. Blue Water Cafe (Silver) was recognized for chef Frank Pabst’s “Unsung Heroes” menu that sings virtuously to the merits of sea urchin with ponzu sauce, or crunchy herring roe on kelp with wispy bonito flakes, or line-caught ling. Fresh mackerel was cleverly matched with cubed beets and savoy cabbage. And sushi bar chef Yoshi Tabo continues to run a disciplined counter, supplemented with rafter-climbing plateaux de mer and fine oysters. West Vancouver’s new La Régalade Côté Mer (Bronze) was signaled for excellent value with unpretentious seafood cooking, although, commented on judge, “the crab cake presentation in a martini glass made me wonder whether I should eat it or drink it.” Tojo’s saw Honourable Mention for a beautiful new room, dominated by its sushi counter, “where the little master cuts only the freshest dominoes of fish,” while at Go Fish (Honourable Mention) the fish tacos are worth the line-ups.

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