Best Japanese Casual Dining: Kingyo Izakaya

Many newcomers drastically changed this year’s results. Our critics were astonished by newcomer Kingyo (Gold), calling it “the first izakaya with a real focus and finesse—flavours are enhanced rather than distracted by unusual combinations and seasonings.” Find those in yuzu jalapeno pasta that surprises with its anchovy-like tiny dried fish tossed with perfectly al dente spaghettiini; the grilled miso black cod and grilled pork cheeks are subtly marinated and show a sure confident hand in the cooking. Okada Sushi, Silver medal winner, is an overlooked gem on the second floor of Nelson Centre, where the sashimi is ringingly fresh, sweet and expertly cut. A modern take on izakaya is reflected in both the room and food at Hapa Izakaya (Bronze), where the sleek interior and lightening-quick service make it conducive to a buzzy evening. (Hapa opens a satellite location in Kitsilano this spring, at the old Urban Well location.) Both Honourable Mentions—Zakkushi and Guu—were noted for innovative dishes and casual, if very competent, service, and the kitchen cacophony of ESL-students and shouted orders.

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