Restaurant of the Year: West

In a year that saw a record number of restaurants open across the Lower Mainland, Vancouver Island and the Okanagan Valley, several veteran dining rooms continued to claim outright excellence. Each is a carefully crafted collaboration of exemplary kitchen and service staffs, first-rate suppliers and growers, and emancipated owners nurturing substantial investments. In an industry that places demands like no other, these rooms tirelessly provide our finest culinary experiences. David Hawksworth, the quiet and intense chef who has pushed West (Gold) to the forefront of the province’s culinary landscape, “never stands still in the kitchen,” as one judge said. “The service is welcoming and the food makes you want to stay a while. A long while.”

Another judge found the tasting menus “hiccup free,” noting seamless service that amps up for serious eaters and wine drinkers, while staying relaxed for those less sure. West epitomizes the best of the West Coast food experience, as Hawksworth elevates the simple to the sublime. Another critic agreed that Hawksworth did precisely that in canon of a lamb with garlic gnocchi and twice-cooked chicken that “sings from the rafters.” Lumière (Silver) remains a guiding light, said one judge, praising the ubiquitous Rob Feenie’s relentless energy in the kitchen, hosting visiting luminaries such as chef Alain Passard, and going on tour himself. A management shake-up saw the arrival of Sebastien Le Goff, who tightened the reins and lent his broad wine knowledge to the staff. Proprietors Feenie and David and Manjy Sidoo remain committed to a superlative dining experience. Blue Water Cafe emerged to claim Bronze, based partly on chef Frank Pabst’s new “Unsung Heroes” menu, which celebrates under-utilized fish such as mackerel and long-line ling cod. But the award also recognizes “rigorous discipline with new flair from the kitchens—it’s a joy to see a restaurant of this size perform at such a high level.” One judge said, “All hail Jack [Evrensel—who also owns West] for consistent excellence.”

C Restaurant (who also won gold in the Best Seafood category) notched Honourable Mention, as much for delicious, unfettered seafood on the brink of the Pacific as for “cooking the courage of its convictions”—a reference to its leadership on sustainability issues. Cioppino’s and Enoteca also won Honourable Mention for inspired dishes that included, as one judge described, “a confetti of Alba truffles over Jerusalem artichoke soup that made me cry.”

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