Best Southeast Asian: Phnom Penh

Phnom Penh’s (Gold) unassuming exterior “does nothing to belie culinary wonders within,” reported our specialist team. Deep-fried garlic squid with piquant lemon-pepper dipping sauce has developed a cult following, while chicken wings prepared in the same manner also has its devoted acolytes—“they’re the dynamic duo of deep-fried goodness!” Butter beef (the Asian version of beef carpaccio—tender beef sliced newspaper thin) is dressed with fish sauce, cilantro and lime then sprinkled with crispy deep-fried garlic chips. And don’t miss the black rice dessert, mysteriously redolent of cherries. Rekados (Silver), which opened this past summer, set a new standard for Filipino restaurants both in style and substance. “Sexy Filipino food” is prepared à-la-minute, presentation is refined, portion sizes are restrained and cooking is focussed. Standout dishes include sweet kamote (yam) fries served with hot banana ketchup and calamansi mayo; “deconstructed” crispy pata (slow-roasted hocks crisp-fried to a crackling crunch, best sprinkled with garlic-and-chili-infused cane vinegar); and the adobo special, a regional variant of a popular Filipino dish that sees a velvety, chili-raised coconut wrap tender chunks of braised pork and grilled chicken. Stalwart Sawasdee brings home Bronze for its green papaya salad starter, and kicky signature Flying Tiger beef and duck curry mains, although one judge noted that the pad thai could have been fresher. Continuous visits to Banana Leaf (Honourable Mention, now three locations) saw slipping food and service standards as the chainlet has expanded, although standout dishes still include the roti canai (flaky, slightly sweet layered bread served with light curry); sambal green beans; Singapore fried chili crab (a signature dish; shell on, wok fired in chili-ginger sauce) and braised lamb shank in cumin and star anise. Our panel praised Café Kathmandu (Honourable Mention) owner Abi Sharma for deft guidance through a menu of elegant, refined flavours reflecting Nepal’s multiple ethnicities and culinary influences from China, India and Tibet. Well-priced dishes include bhatmaas (crunchy toasted soybeans quick-fried with minced ginger, garlic and chilies and tossed with cilantro) and lhasa momo—steamed toonie-size dumplings (typical street food evolved from Shanghainese xiao long bao with three types of achaar or sauce for dipping), while khasiko maasu sees tender goat meat slow-simmered in a dark, rich curry.

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