Best of the Americas: Dona Cata

Dona Cata (Gold) is a new taqueria that hits all the right notes with a descant of authenticity. Bright, balanced flavours, and slow-cooked chili and spiced meats are each made with precision: from al Pastor to carne enchilada and carnitas. There are eight salsas to choose from, each unique in flavour complexity: from a classic bright green tomatillo to a creamy peanut version. Cook and co-owner Brenda Castrejon, with husband and partner Jenner Rodriguez, happily advise salsa pairings, but we say just mix and match. All recipes are time-honoured (Brenda’s grandmother ran a famous taqueria in Mexico) and speak to the cook’s buen sazon or “excellent palate.” The diverse flavours of South America are eclectically featured at the modern and tastefully decorated Baru Latino (Silver). Begin with cassava chips with three salsas and a Mark Brand cocktail. The hearty Dominican stew called sancocho, a sweet samba of beef, cassava, corn, cheese, plantain and avocado—is brilliantly executed. Raucous Lolita’s (Bronze) plays to the neighbourhood with strong cocktails, a great tequila list and a Latin-influenced menu creatively presented. The kitchen, tightly choreographed, gets lusty in platos fuertes of meats, or grilled fish tacos. Salvadoren soul food signatures at family-run Rinconcito Salvadoreño (Honourable Mention) are seen in pupusas (a masa-based snack stuffed with beans and cheese) or luscious pulled pork. And at The Mouse and the Bean (Honourable Mention), a cosy corner in a dodgy block, erratic service is disarmingly charming, while the homestyle Mexican food is good, if timid.

BACK TO RESTAURANT AWARDS