Best Casual Chain: Earls

The results tightened markedly this year, a result, said one judge, “of extraordinary competition, amazing wine lists and an outright dedication to flavoursome invention that appeases most of the people, all of the time.” Perennial category-killer Earls (Gold) won again, gaining attention for its new and renovated rooms and easily the best wine list (“I can’t afford to drink anywhere else,” quipped one judge) in the category. Cactus Club closed in for Silver because “[former] development chef Julian Bond’s unstinting eye for detail translated to consistent tabletop appeal—as does the service.” One judge signaled the terrific won ton soup, while another mentioned one of the best salmon preps in the city. Meanwhile The Keg has evolved from its solely carnivorous past into a hybrid blend: while a prime rib dinner delivers tremendous value, there are plenty of other options, including well-made salads, and service that would make many more expensive rooms blush. Joeys’ new West Broadway room captured attention, as much for its accessible Asian twists as for its décor (see Best Design, page 76) and rooftop cabana bar. Standout menu items include starters of California sushi tacos and blue cheese fries, and the ahi tuna club sandwich at lunch. At The Boathouse, surprisingly fresh turns of local seafood—including the Westcoast Paella—were well presented and efficiently served.

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