Best Bistro/Brasserie: Pied-à-Terre

The war zone that was Cambie Street found an oasis of peace in the opening of Andrey Durbach’s third restaurant, the 34-seat Pied-à-Terre (Gold), a kitsch-free room that updates bistro classics at a reasonable price. With Canada Way construction nearing completion, a table d’hôte lunch and glass of sensible white almost feels like an après-midi à Paris.

West Van’s Régalade (Silver) continues to serve lusty ragouts and terrines of country coziness; the lapin à la Provençale defines slow-cooked seduction.

Parisian from delectably accented owner John Blakely to its artfully canted mirrors, Bistro Pastis (Bronze) is Right Bank chic rather than Left Bank casual. Our judges are crazy about the salad of frisée, lardons, and poached egg, and the steak frites with peppercorn sauce (steak tartare, too). If this is Tuesday, it must be coq au vin.

Honourable Mentions to pretty, unpretentious Jules Bistro (Côtes du Rhône by the glass for $6!) and intimate Mistral.

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