Best Casual Japanese: Kingyo

Kingyo and chef Koji Zenimaru win Gold for the best Japanese “pub food” in the city, seen in small plates like seared beef tongue, tataki with yuzu, chicken kaarage with three types of salt, and the screamingly fresh sashimi platter. “Bonus points for the 90-pound server that can drink you under the table and still maintain a full section.”

Zest (Silver), a regular haunt for many Japanese expats, excels at unusual dishes like geoduck salad and monkfish liver.

Check the fresh sheet at Okada (Bronze) for red miso soup with nameko mushrooms or barbecued beef tongue. Yuji’s earns

Honourable Mention for dishes like albacore tuna served three ways, as does Guu (all locations) for rowdy rooms and equally riotous plates.

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