RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Coal Harbour


BLISS ASIAN BISTRO
On the shimmering crescent of Coal Harbour, Bliss leaves traditional izakaya influences for more international waters—a fusion of Korean and Japanese cuisines with a touch of Chinese and Thai. Dishes like chirashi (sashimi rice bowls) offers an abundance of seafood fit for two ($16-$20). Korean-style rolls—including one that combines steak, prawns, unagi, avocado and cucumber—bring a welcome twist to the traditional Japanese sushi menu ($8-$16). Navigate the menu and extensive drink list with the guidance of helpful servers, then just sit back and enjoy the near-Kyoto like experience: calming, meditative, blissful. 100-550 Denman St., Coal Harbour, 604-662-3044. $$

CARDERO'S
This casual bar and dining room opens to Coal Harbour views. Begin with chef Annabelle Leslie’s signature wok squid. Simply grilled fish mains are best, and the braised lamb shank is a bargain. The marina patio is one of the city’s prime porches and perfect for a platter of oysters and a pull of draft. 1583 Coal Harbour Quay, Coal Harbour, 604-669-7666. $$-$$$

IMPERIAL CHINESE
High-rises will soon block the ocean and mountain view for this popular downtown high-end Chinese restaurant, but the food and service will continue to draw. Wide selection of dim sum is served daily. Lunch is quick, dinner unrushed. Duck wrapped in Chinese pancakes, corn and crab soup and elegant prawns in garlic sauce to start. Share crab laced with garlic and vegetables, salmon in black bean sauce or deep-fried black cod with spicy salt. VIP rooms perfect for special occasions; group meals from $40 to $60 per person for tables of 10. 355 Burrard St., Coal Harbour, 604-688-8191. $$$-$$$$

LIFT
This $6.5-million waterfront marvel has improved markedly since its opening a few years ago—it’s now a consistently excellent destination restaurant for locals and visitors. Service standards have skyrocketed with the arrival of general manager Fernando Gougain (ex-Circolo). New chef Scott Kidd has steered the menu towards the superlative. At dinner, start with seared foie gras before forking your grilled beef tenderloin with confit abalone mushroom, spinach fondant potatoes on the side. The quality has definitely caught up with the high prices and gorgeous views, though the otherwise excellent wine list remains studded with over-priced bin ends. Very good brunches on weekends to punctuate a seawall stroll. 333 Menchion Mews, Coal Harbour, 604-689-5438. Liftbarandgrill.com. $$$

LION'S PUB
Ex-pat Brits steer here for well-handled fish and chips ($14) and bangers and mash ($10.50). Big-screens and a great selection of beers, whiskeys and (surprise) martinis make this a hit with the after-work crowd. Saturday and Sunday you’ll get great value with 7-oz steaks—prepped several ways—for a loss leading $11. 888 W. Cordova St., Coal Harbour, 604-488-8602. $$

THE MILL MARINE BISTRO
Nautically themed (complete with garishly portholed interior and a lifeguard skiff), this is a cosy little room with a view, an aggrandized pub with a menu. The bucket of peel-and-eat shrimp ($25 for a full pound, $15 for half-pound) might offend the sensibilities of the foodie set, but since you can also get a bucket of Whistler beers for just $25 (5 beers for $25), we’re conditionally sold. Better still, go with old school nachos ($14). Remember how you used to have to pay extra for guacamole? Here you still do ($4.50). 1199 W. Cordova St., Coal Harbour, 604-687-6455. $$

SEAWALL BAR & GRILL
Sitting on the south shore of Coal Harbour next to the main entrance to Stanley Park, this laid-back indoor/outdoor nautical bar isn’t just for tourists. Although there’s enough scenery inside, the real action (in the summer) is outside on the deck, where the view spans the harbour and the North Shore. The after-work crowd and hotel guests commune at patio tables and enjoy specialty drinks such as the Seawall Sunset (vodka, cranberry and triple sec), then motor through a bucket of peel-and-eat prawns ($20) or a pound of spicy chicken wings ($12). The juicy sirloin burger offers even more incentive to stay past midnight. 1601 Bayshore Dr., Coal Harbour, 604-682-3377. $$

TORATATSU
Sitting on a stretch of Denman that’s chewed up and spat out many an ambitious restaurateur, Toratatsu—a spin-off of Kodai Uno’s Shiru-Bay—takes over the space most recently occupied by Clove. It is, like many spin-offs, a paler version of the original; there’s even the trademark ebi chili mayo (“with Shiru Bay’s original chili”) from the Yaletown izakaya. Nothing tastes quite as fresh here—perhaps because the turnover isn’t as great: we were one of two tables at 7:30 on a Thursday night, compared to the always-packed Shiru Bay. Drinks are top-notch, though: try the bourbon sour. 735 Denman St., Coal Harbour, 604-685-9399. $$

VISTAS
Stunning 20th-floor revolving view and chef Kevin Greehy’s solid—if hardly revolutionary—cuisine. His Queen Charlotte Dungeness crab cakes and pine mushroom fettuccine go sublime. And that’s just the first round—plan on staying for a couple of spins and leave room for crème brûlée in a demi-tasse. Ample wine list. Renaissance Vancouver Hotel, 1133 W. Hastings St., Coal Harbour, 604-691-2777. $$$-$$$$

 

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