RESTAURANT REVIEWS


East Side


DUFFIN'S DONUTS
The torta subs (all for $3.75) are the best thing going here, on fresh home-baked buns loaded with lettuce, tomato, avocado and hot peppers. Try the spicy shredded beef machaca, chorizo and egg, or the carne azada, a savoury chicken schlimazel. Now with two venues in the city to broaden the edible horizons of folks with doughnut and torta sub hankerings. One of the city’s best spots for cheap eats. 1391 E. 41st Ave., East Side, 604-325-5544; 4898 Main St., South Main, 604-879-5551. $

LA CUCINA DEL DIAVOLLO
Passion and pride runs deep in owners Colin MacDonald and Lela Selmo. From the breakfast sandwich—a Russian baguette and fine quality cheeses, Parma ham and organic greens—to a delicate, exquisite lemon and chocolate ganache tart, all foods are made on premise, surprising for such a tiny place. MacDonald bakes light, flaky scones in small batches throughout the day—the cinnamon and raisin variety brings loyal customers from afar. Selmo concocts sweet sins using top ingredients such as Gianduja chocolate. 1701 Powell St., East Side, 604-677-1119. $

NOORU MAHAL
This basic, family-run spot on Fraser Street has the corner on Vancouver’s string hopper trade, serving cuisine from Sri Lanka as well as south Indian and Singaporean fare. The thin rice noodles curled into spirals are served with the curry of your choice—sample the Sri Lankan version that’s hotter and coconut-milk based. Top marks for the dosas with an arm’s-length list of fillings; light and outrageously flaky with a hint of sweet, they’re a meal in themselves. Service is leisurely but always earnest and friendly. 4354 Fraser St., East Side, 604-677-5651. $$

SENHOR ROOSTER
Chef Daniel Alexandre blends the flavours of his Portuguese heritage with those of his birthplace, Angola. The menu at this warm, casual neighbourhood restaurant features a lineup of well-executed Portuguese dishes: perfectly crisped pasteis de bacalhau (cod and potato fritters) and fiery prawns piri piri are two standouts. The specials board announces intriguing counterpoints, such as Dungeness crab cakes with beurre blanc and blueberry sauce. Finish on your feet with mango mousse or a flambé of blueberries in house-made liqueur. 850 Renfrew St., East Side, 604-434-1010. $$-$$$

 

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