Fairview


BANANA LEAF
Just about every Asian restaurant in town offers up some variation of a green bean dish, but the sambal green beans at Banana Leaf are the best around. The beans are ravishingly crisp, the sambal has infinite depth, and the shrimp and tomatoes make it a wrap. Devotees go for the signature chili crab; check ahead for availability. 1096 Denman St., West End, 604-683-3333; 820 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-731-6333; 3005 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-3005. $$

HACHIBEI
Much like Aerosmith, the continuing allure of this perennially crammed 16th Avenue eatery is something of a mystery. Its “decor” utilizes both shiny and matte duct tape; the menu invokes “Sweet Emotion” as a chart topper. But what the food lacks in imagination it makes up for in ample portions and fresh ingredients, and the family who runs the show are always exceptionally friendly and lightning-fast with service. The barbecue mackerel ($10.15) is one of the pleasant surprises on the menu, as is the $8 big bottle of Kirin—the cheapest we’ve found on the west side. 778 W. 16th Ave., Fairview, 604-879-3357. $$

RUGBY BEACH CLUB GRILLE
Cheap eats and drinks in a room that buzzes long and late. The deceptively large space houses an indoor patio, intimate booths and a lively lounge where $3 martinis and cleansing ales flow fast. Killer value from the grille ($10.95 for an eight-ounce sirloin) and mix-and-match sides make every meal an adventure, some more enjoyable than others. Service can be hit and miss so belly up to the bar instead for a proper Black & Tan for less than you’ll pay for a medium-sized latte. Short but surprisingly good wine list holds a few gems and weekend brunch is a gong show: brekkie starts at $2.95. 950 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-736-2438. $$

SEOUL HOUSE ROYAL
Pass on the Japanese menu and go straight for classic Korean dishes. The premium barbecue dinner of short ribs comes with a huge array of condiments: wrap the meat in a lettuce leaf with a whole garlic clove (cooked or raw) and miso paste. Or try the bibimbap: vegetables or meat with rice cooked till just tender in a stone pot that retains the flavour of each item. 1215 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-738-8285. $$$

SHA LIN NOODLE HOUSE
Bare-bones spot serves superior northern Chinese noodles. Addictive “cutting noodles,” sliced off mounds of dough, are fried with meats and vegetables (and lots of garlic). “Pushing” noodles are cut into strands, blanched and served in seafood soup; while “dragging” noodles are hand-spun and served in a clear stock with spiced beef. All arrive within minutes. A good lunch bet. 548 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-873-1816. $-$$

TOJO'S
Hidekazu Tojo has recited his distinct brand of Japanese seafood haiku for about 35 years. Perennial winner of the Vancouver magazine restaurant award for Best Japanese. Now moved to dramatic (and pleasingly quiet) new premises farther west along Broadway, signatures of local albacore tuna with sesame marinade, shrimp dumplings with hot mustard sauce, lightly steamed monkfish and sautéed halibut cheeks still shine. A sake bar, omakaze bar and tatami rooms rim the room—it’s a delight. Stars and moguls abound—bring money if you want to keep up. Sushi bar stools amongst most coveted seats in town. 202-777 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-872-8050. $$$$

TOMOKAZU
Sushi and excess are fundamentally opposed, despite what the popularity of Vancouver’s all-you-can-eat Japanese restaurants might suggest. If you must gorge, at least come here, where a wide variety of fresh fish and a clean, spacious room add some respectability to the affair. Lunch and late-night (after 9:30 p.m.) buffets are a bargain ($9.95 and $12.95, respectively), but the expansive “deluxe dinner” menu ($22.95), which includes upscale delicacies like tuna belly and raw oysters on the half-shell, is where the restaurant stands out. 20-1128 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-677-0426. $-$$

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