RESTAURANT REVIEWS


False Creek


APOLLONIA
Among the area’s very few off-Granville Island dining options is a sweet Greek restaurant as serene as the Mediterranean vistas on the wall. No surprises on the menu, but the souvlaki ($14.95-16.95) has a nice charred smokiness and the lamb (slow-roasted leg, $15.95; or broiled loin or chops, $17.95) is flavourful. Hearty moussaka ($14.95) sees silky béchamel, fragrant meat, eggplant and zucchini layers in a thin-sliced potato shell. Locals take out the thick, crisp pizzas, like the feta-rich spinach and artichoke ($13.95-17.95). 1830 Fir St., False Creek, 604-736-9559. $$

C RESTAURANT
The astounding patio views—the busy marinas of False Creek paint the foreground, while the Burrard Bridge frames the setting sun—reveal watershed seafood cookery. Executive chef Robert Clark and restaurant chef Quang Dang are champions of sustainable raw product, made definitive in their hands (they know just when to get out of the way of their prime ingredients): outsized Kagan Bay scallops with gold potatoes and radish, or seared Nass River salmon with warm summer squash tart, herbed sourdough crumb, and eggplant purée and the pan-seared sablefish, pork belly crusted potatoes, braised arugula, and brown butter concentrate, reveals the sea just outside. C’s fish-friendly wine program dexterously marries vine to plate—and budget. 1600 Howe St., False Creek, 604-681-1164. $$$-$$$$

GO FISH
Salmon tacos might sound the alarm for traditionalists, but at this False Creek seafood shack on the western approach to Granville Island, they’re very good. A construct of smoky tortilla, grilled wild salmon, side-stripe shrimp mayonnaise and fresh salsa, they’re still redolent of the sea. They should be: the fisherman who caught the main ingredient berths beside the restaurant’s year-round patio. Tempura-battered cod (or halibut or salmon) and chips are the city’s best, and simple grilled seafood (order an extra side of the tangy tartare sauce) are well worth the salty seawall walk. Unlicensed, and the weekend lines can be fierce. 1504 W. 1st Ave., False Creek, 604-730-5040. $-$$

MONK MCQUEENS
If you’ve forgotten why you love Vancouver, head directly to the huge patio at Monk McQueens where the $10-million False Creek view (adjusted to reflect current real estate prices) elevates chef Jeff Batt’s seafood-forward menu. The oysters are always screamingly fresh and tapas plates like roasted lamb loin with cassis and sour cherry demi ($16) and the salmon trilogy ($14) arouse effusive superlatives. Upstairs offers a more upscale experience, featuring an ambitious menu and live jazz on the weekends. 601 Stamps Landing, False Creek, 604-877-1351. Monkmcqueens.com. $$$

NU
Nu is a beautifully conceived waterside room where the French-influenced food follows suit. The gorgeous False Creek patio looks west but the brigade cooks outside the bento box: crispy fried oyster with Granville Island lager to begin. Follow with flat-iron steak à la béarnaise classically served with vinaigrette-spiked arugula and potatoes allumette. Cheerfully demand one of the excellent barmen’s inventions, and drink in the lovely view. Great spot for brunch, too. 1661 Granville St., False Creek, 604-646-4668. $$-$$$

 

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