False Creek
APOLLONIA
Among the area’s very few off-Granville Island
dining options is a sweet Greek restaurant as serene
as the Mediterranean vistas on the wall. No surprises
on the menu, but the souvlaki ($14.95-16.95) has a nice
charred smokiness and the lamb (slow-roasted leg, $15.95;
or broiled loin or chops, $17.95) is flavourful. Hearty
moussaka ($14.95) sees silky béchamel, fragrant
meat, eggplant and zucchini layers in a thin-sliced
potato shell. Locals take out the thick, crisp pizzas,
like the feta-rich spinach and artichoke ($13.95-17.95).
1830 Fir St., False Creek, 604-736-9559. $$
C RESTAURANT
The astounding patio views—the busy marinas of
False Creek paint the foreground, while the Burrard
Bridge frames the setting sun—reveal watershed
seafood cookery. Executive chef Robert Clark and restaurant
chef Quang Dang are champions of sustainable raw product,
made definitive in their hands (they know just when
to get out of the way of their prime ingredients): outsized
Kagan Bay scallops with gold potatoes and radish, or
seared Nass River salmon with warm summer squash tart,
herbed sourdough crumb, and eggplant purée and
the pan-seared sablefish, pork belly crusted potatoes,
braised arugula, and brown butter concentrate, reveals
the sea just outside. C’s fish-friendly wine program
dexterously marries vine to plate—and budget.
1600 Howe St., False Creek, 604-681-1164. $$$-$$$$
GO FISH
Salmon tacos might sound the alarm for traditionalists,
but at this False Creek seafood shack on the western
approach to Granville Island, they’re very good.
A construct of smoky tortilla, grilled wild salmon,
side-stripe shrimp mayonnaise and fresh salsa, they’re
still redolent of the sea. They should be: the fisherman
who caught the main ingredient berths beside the restaurant’s
year-round patio. Tempura-battered cod (or halibut or
salmon) and chips are the city’s best, and simple
grilled seafood (order an extra side of the tangy tartare
sauce) are well worth the salty seawall walk. Unlicensed,
and the weekend lines can be fierce. 1504 W. 1st
Ave., False Creek, 604-730-5040. $-$$
MONK
MCQUEENS
If you’ve forgotten why you love Vancouver, head
directly to the huge patio at Monk McQueens where the
$10-million False Creek view (adjusted to reflect current
real estate prices) elevates chef Jeff Batt’s
seafood-forward menu. The oysters are always screamingly
fresh and tapas plates like roasted lamb loin with cassis
and sour cherry demi ($16) and the salmon trilogy ($14)
arouse effusive superlatives. Upstairs offers a more
upscale experience, featuring an ambitious menu and
live jazz on the weekends. 601 Stamps Landing, False
Creek, 604-877-1351. Monkmcqueens.com.
$$$
NU
Nu is a beautifully conceived waterside room where the
French-influenced food follows suit. The gorgeous False
Creek patio looks west but the brigade cooks outside
the bento box: crispy fried oyster with Granville Island
lager to begin. Follow with flat-iron steak à
la béarnaise classically served with vinaigrette-spiked
arugula and potatoes allumette. Cheerfully demand one
of the excellent barmen’s inventions, and drink
in the lovely view. Great spot for brunch, too. 1661
Granville St., False Creek, 604-646-4668. $$-$$$
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