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BURNABY

ABDUL'S BARBEQUE
Welcome to the house Abdul built, centred around vertically rotating spits of succulent meat. Bright neon signage proclaims this small venue’s strengths: falafels and shawarmas. It’s a takeout affair, or a quick plunk down at one of the few utility tables. Recommended is the shawarma platter offering all three meats, rice, salad, hummus and pita spread with Abdul’s secret and spicy garlic sauce. Everything is made from scratch. Seductive flavours for less than 10 bucks, but go early, when the meat is at its juiciest. MIDDLE EASTERN. 4500 Kingsway, 604-431-9498. $

BOMBAY BHEL
What this spartan room lacks in ambience is made up for in its dishes. Several bhel or chat—Mumbai street fare—are offered: tamarind chutney with any of the appetizers and a very good mint raita comes with mains—we’ve had success with the chicken and fish tikkas, prepared in one of two tandoors, that also pop quality naan. Both have been exceptionally tender. Extensive vegetarian selection; we loved the baked and mashed eggplant, nicely spiced. INDIAN. 4266 E. Hastings St., 604-299-2500. $$

CRYSTAL MALL FOOD COURT
For a quick mid-shopping bite, skip the generic Metrotown and go next-door to Crystal Mall, where the food court directory reads like a Lonely Planet guide. Countless variations on noodles, rice and dimsum ($4-6)—from Sichuan, Shandong, Huaxi, Taiwan and beyond—testify to the diversity of China’s cuisine. The Shanghainese vendor in the back corner, serving restaurant-quality xiao long bao, is a reliable place to start, but be adventurous and seek out something new. CHINESE. 4500 Kingsway, 604-438-6263. $

THE HART HOUSE
This elegant lakeside dining spot sees a refreshed menu from new executive chef Dennis Peckham. At lunch, sample the gazpacho with fresh mozzarella and basil oil ($9), the crab salad with avocado mousse ($13), mussels frites ($15) and boar bacon parpadalle ($14). The dinner menu expands to include irresistible weathervane scallops ($32), roasted lamb sirloin ($32) and prosciutto wrapped chicken ($24). Prolific wine selection and attentive service impress. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 6664 Deer Lake Ave., 604-298-4278. $$$

HORIZONS
Innovative dishes made from local ingredients atop Burnaby Mountain—soak in the brilliant view. Plump house-smoked oysters with a spinach-filled parmesan basket ($12), a grilled bread salad ($9) or the baked Okanagan goat cheese ($10) are prime starts. For mains the alderwood grilled salmon ($26) is a favourite, as is the black cod with a chili-cumin crust ($29). The cured pork tenderloin ($25) is also flavourful in its maple balsamic glaze. The wine list also tilts local. A popular destination for Sunday brunch. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 100 Centennial Way, 604-299-1155. Horizonsrestaurant.com. $$$

ISAMI SUSHI
Tucked away on a sidestreet off the Kingsway corridor, Isami Sushi is a go-to favourite of Burnaby residents. The takeout menu is pared down to the basics, but options for sit-down dining are more creative with dishes like soba sushi, shrimp wrapped with buckwheat noodles and served tempura style. Reliable favourites include robata-style scallops, skewered and grilled, and tuna tataki, flash-seared and served with garlic chips and ginger in house-made ponzu sauce. JAPANESE. 6-4603 Kingsway, 604-434-1212. $$

LHY THAI
Warm-hearted restaurant by a crash of exotic bric-a-brac, charmingly offset by a sign that reads, “If you wish to pay with old fifty or hundred dollar bills please negotiate first.” The menu is eye-opening in its unusual Thai dishes. Look for Gai Hor Bai Toey, incredibly tender marinated chicken deep-fried in pandan leaves; or intoxicating prawns fried with green beans, kaffir lime leaves, and red curry paste. THAI. 7357 Edmonds St., 604-526-8085. $$

NO. 1 BEEF NOODLE HOUSE
The name of this out-of-the-way Taiwanese eatery may seem boastful, but its signature dish ($6.50) makes a convincing case: noodles cooked to chewy perfection, served in a dark, rich broth, accompanied by tender beef brisket, and fresh leafy greens. Over 100 bubble tea and fruit drink choices ($3–$4.50) and tasty snacks like crispy salt and pepper chicken ($5) and wonton in chili sauce ($4.50) draw young, talkative crowds right ‘till closing time (2 a.m. on weekends). CHINESE. 4741 Willingdon Ave., 604-438-6648. $

PARADISE VEGETARIAN NOODLE HOUSE
The road to paradise is paved with gluten, soybean and other fake meats, according to the menu at this humble vegetarian Vietnamese restaurant. Don’t be fooled by the number of meat dishes listed on the menu: everything’s vegan, so the ham, chicken, barbecue pork and salmon are all imposters. On that note, don’t miss the spicy lemongrass chicken, sizzling salmon (although the accompanying pineapple chunks in the mushroom sauce makes for strange bedfellows), sesame eggplant tofu, or the faux-pho beef noodle soup. VEGETARIAN/VIETNAMESE. 8681 10th Ave., (in the Crest Plaza), 604-527-8138. $-$$

PEAR TREE
Elegantly renovated in gold, oak and ebony, the room warmed with earth tones and organic textures, there’s now enough space to hold over 1,200 wine bottles after an expansion in late 2006. Scott Jaeger’s menu (he was captain Team Canada at the 2007 Bocuse d’Or culinary competition, and chef of the year in Vancouver magazine’s 2007 Restaurant Awards) is slim and precise, most dishes are impeccably balanced: opt for lobster cappuccino, or a beef tenderloin with stilton and Cinzano jus. Finish with a heavenward chocolate ganache with fleur de sel—as lovely as it is unusual. There’s a clear commitment to the use of regional ingredients here. Wine list is value-oriented and includes an eclectic reserve list. Impeccable service and knowledgeable servers. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 4120 E. Hastings St., 604-299-2772. $$$-$$$$

SUSHI GARDEN
Generous portions of sashimi and sushi, and a tasty udon soup, make this Japanese eatery a find. The dynamite roll ($3.95) is truly dynamite in size—try to eat a piece in one bite at your own peril. Zero ambience, but service is swift and (almost militantly) to-the-point. Expect a wait during peak hours. JAPANESE. 4635 Kingsway, 604-436-0104. $-$$

THE XIANG CUISINE
Hunan food is best known for its blistering heat and bold flavours. Here the cooking is nuanced—the incredible heat is balanced with refreshingly sour notes and fresh ingredients. A starter of spicy celery salad is brightened with Chinese vinegar. Beef with pickled green chilies has an incredibly smoky flavour, a tell-tale sign of a well seasoned wok and rocket-hot burners. Bone-in pieces of chicken are steamed in vinegar and sprinkled with chilies. If you feel brave, order your food “dai la” which translates to Big Hot. CHINESE. 850 Imperial St., 604-437-0828. $

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COQUITLAM

CHADA THAI
Saffron yellow walls warm this stylish room accented with ethnic artwork and the restaurant’s namesake Chada, a traditional headpiece used in Thai classical dance drama. Having honed his culinary skills at the Four Seasons Vancouver, Chef Brian Marchesi uses his formal European training to put a spin on traditional Thai cuisine. Whet your appetite with peek gai yad sai, chicken wings stuffed with shredded vegetables, vermicelli and mushrooms and deep-fried to a light crispness. Pad thai is a solid accompaniment for the soft piquancy of gang dang, red curry with bamboo shoots, bell pepper, and basil. THAI. 107–2991 Lougheed Hwy., 604-464-5300. $$-$$$

CRAIG'S CAFE
New owners Edna O’Neill and chef Shad Stobbe continue the tradition of this great breakfast and lunch spot with its friendly staff and country-style decor. Try the mushroom or Mexican eggs Benedict ($10.29) and signature omelettes ($9.99-10.99). Healthily stacked sandwiches and burgers make a great lunch and Shad encourages special requests and substitutions. Don’t leave without some of the house-made pancake mix and granola. INFORMAL. 1046A Austin Ave., 604-936-4141. $

INSADONG
Insadong, located at the epicenter of Korean restaurants on North Road and Lougheed, showcases the depth of Korean cuisine. Steamed sliced pork is combined with spicy kimchi (pickled cabbage with chopped oysters) and Napa cabbage for do it yourself wraps that are comfortingly homey yet exotic. Spicy tofu soup is chock full of seafood and an underlying sweetness that comes from a well-made broth. The deep fried chicken wings are crackling crisp and napped in a sweet, warmly spiced sauce. Most tables have a button to press that lets the wait staff know that you’re ready to order. OTHER ASIAN. 403 North Rd., 604-936-3778. $$

JOHN B. NEIGHBOURHOOD PUB
Some of the best pub fare in the province. Lots of old-school specials such as hot wings (12 for $8.95), spinach and artichoke dip ($10.25) and nachos ($11.95) as well as a great sandwich and a fresh salad selection. Along with the many chicken, beef, rib, and fish burgers, the kitchen also handles entrées including ahi tuna ($17.95), hickory smoked ribs ($17.95), and portobello mushrooms, roasted red peppers, and Fontina cheese stuffed chicken ($15.95) with confidence. Sit out in the surprisingly secluded summer patio and be sure to stop by the wine and beer shop next door, also one of the best in B.C., for something to take home. INFORMAL. 1000 Austin Ave., 604-931-5115. $$

PACIFIC RIM GRILLE
Chef-owner Suave Jedynak (Seasons in the Park, Wedgewood) and wife Lulu have brought upscale dining to Coquitlam. They’ll start you with house-made foccacia bread; follow it up with tuna tartare Napoleon with seasoned seaweed, avocado and cherry tomatoes in a crispy taro root cone ($8.95), or the flash-fried drunken (vodka) calamari cress ($9.95). Mains include a selection of pastas, but after seafood to start we prefer the elk medallions with chive mashed potato ($24.95), or the rack of lamb ($26.95). Nice selection of B.C. wines won’t bump you or the menu. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1126 Austin Ave., 604-939-4000. $$-$$$

PASTA POLO
A quality family boite run by Fred and Farrokh Soofi. The kitchen sources organic semolina flour to craft their house-made pastas and pizza dough and starts all their sauces from scratch. Start with crispy calamari ($7.95), PEI mussels ($8.95) or a fresh avocado and shrimp salad ($11.95), then pick a pasta and a sauce to create your own meal ($9.95-17.95). Perhaps fettuccini, linguini, or angel hair with Italian sausage, tomato basil, clam marinara or veal meatball? Wine Wednesdays see bottles of wine with a mere $4 mark up. ITALIAN. 2754 Barnet Hwy., 604-464-7656. $$

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FORT LANGLEY

THE LAMPLITER GALLERY CAFE
Charming Fort Langley favourite; country farmhouse decor welcomes locals and tourists, too. Chef and owner Paul Buckley trained internationally, but focuses the menu on country cooking with local ingredients. Start with crispy duck on organic greens ($8.95) or smoked salmon and halibut chowder ($5.95). Mains include Fraser Valley pork tenderloin ($17.95); tender as the night, organic chicken breast in red wine sauce ($19.95); and a best seller Tuscan steak with olive oil, shaved garlic and fresh rosemary ($16.95 for 7 oz, $21.95 for 11 oz.). Local wines are encouraged, and homemade desserts such as white chocolate pannecotta and bread pudding are worthies. Jolly, knowledgeable servers. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 9213 Glover St., 604-888-6464. $$

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HARRISON

COPPER ROOM
This room, set in the scenic Harrison Hot Springs Hotel, hasn’t changed in years and we wouldn’t want it any other way. It’s a flashback to more ceremonious times when dinner out included a nightly band and dance floor. The chef keeps the menu fresh by sourcing local, seasonal ingredients from the Agassiz farmbelt, and the bartenders make a mean martini. Try the blue cheese and grilled peach salad ($14.95), tender beef tenderloin ($29.95), and perfectly cooked organic chicken ($33.95). Save room for whiskey bread pudding ($6.95). Stay the night at the charming hotel and take a dip in the hot springs to complete a romantic evening. CONTEMPORARY WESTCOAST. Harrison Hot Springs Resort & Spa, 100 Esplanade, 604-796-2244. $$$

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LADNER

LA BELLE AUBERGE
This creaky (whoops—atmospheric) restaurant in deepest Ladner can make you feel like you’re having Sunday dinner at grandmother’s house, but the plates that emerge from age-defying chef Bruno Marti’s kitchen quickly compensate. If you’re fattening up for hibernation, go for the seven-course table d’hote ($80), a hits-just-keep-on-coming succession of fresh, imaginatively prepared dishes that range from the ridiculous (caramelized foie gras with butternut squash rosti; $15 extra) to the sublime (wild boar with morel sauce). The wine list is uninspired but adequate. The desserts are swell. Granny never ate like this. FRENCH. 4856 48th Ave., 604-946-7717. $$$$

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LANGLEY

BACCHUS BISTRO AT DOMAINE DE CHABERTON
If you turn a blind eye to the weirdly high school-like walk (past portables and chain-link fencing) from parking lot to restaurant proper, you’ll be rewarded with executive chef Frederic Desbiens’ satisfying take on such standards as boeuf bourgignon, baked spring salmon, braised lamb shanks, and roasted rack of veal with mushrooms in a port wine sauce. The room is also other-weirdly—the painted cinder block recalls a ’70s rec room—and the early dinner shift may include a busload of seniors, but the fare is tasty, the portions are generous (the duck rillette maison condiment and chicken liver pâté brûléare almost meals in themselves) and the atmosphere convivial. Domaine de Chaberton’s wines are suddenly comparable to the Okanagan’s best; Langley’s never had it so good. In summer, book a table on the terrace. FRENCH. Domaine de Chaberton, 1064-216 St., 604-530-9694. $$$-$$$$

FLOURISHING CHINESE
Love the name and here’s an opportunity for Sunday dim sum in Langley. Pick and choose from a variety of up to 20 items: dumplings with seafood, chicken, beef, or pork, tofu rolls, tender short ribs, sticky rice, and mango pudding (all $3-$5). Flourishing is Cantonese; weekday fare includes a selection of soups, sweet and sour spareribs and ginger beef. Prices are great—lunch specials for $4.50 and dinner combos as low as $7.50. They’ll deliver, just not to Vancouver. CHINESE. 20472 Fraser Hwy., 604-534-3335. $

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NEW WESTMINSTER

TAMARIND HILL
Owners Rebecca and Louis Leung (ex-Banana Leaf) have brought authentic Malaysian cuisine to New Westminster, with thorough service and a chef, Robert Phua, who hails directly from Malaysia. Start with a mix of satays (chicken, beef or lamb) at $1.25 a skewer, the roti canai (Malaysian bread) with a spicy curry dip ( 2 for $5) , and some crispy vegetarian spring rolls (4 for $5). Braised lamb shank ($12) or beef rendang, a stew with ginger, turmeric, and coconut gravy ($10) are both sound values. Deep-fried banana is lightly battered and served over coconut ice cream. MALAYSIAN. 628 6th Ave., 604-526-3000. $$

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PORT MOODY

SAINT STREET GRILL
Ross Edwards opened Saint Street 10 years ago, successfully upping the dining scene in Port Moody with a French-influenced west coast menu. The atmosphere is French boudoir meets funky antique store. To begin: a warm chicken-topped spinach salad, with an excellent sweet balsamic dressing ($10.95) or Cajun seared calamari ($10.95); mains number elk loin ($28.50), beef tenderloin with demi and portobellos ($32.95), or grilled escolar ($26.95). If it’s a celebration, book the party in the Arabic-style tent (only available during winter, converts to a patio in summer) in the back—it seats up to 20. FRENCH. 2510 St. John’s St., 604-937-7477. $$-$$$

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RICHMOND

ALLELUIA CAFE
Shredded ox-tongue in cream corn sauce on fettuccini ($5.95) would be a black mark on most menus, but at a Hong Kong-style café it’s a badge of legitimacy. Though booth seating, low prices, and constant busyness add to the vibe, the source of the café’s HK energy is the eclectic menu: baked fish with a rich Portuguese sauce ($5.95) or Malay curry with roti ($4.95) say as much about HK food culture as the long list of classic noodle and rice dishes. A “mix and match combo” offers lamb shoulder, ribeye steak, duck leg, butterfly prawns and mini corndogs (only $8.95 for 3 items, soup and a drink). CHINESE. 188-8131 Westminster Hwy., 604-271-8266. $

ALSO
With its stark white interiors and twinkling Christmas lights, Also feels a little like Palm Springs in the middle of Richmond. The food is decidedly less tacky. A generous portion of deeply flavored lobster bisque is poured from a silver teapot and the tobiko roe has a pleasant briny snap. Portobello mushroom strips, deep fried and served with wasabi mayonnaise, makes for a nice shared appetizer. Prices are a little steep, and presentation borders on over wrought, but Also seems to have found its place with late-night loungers. ASIAN FUSION. 120-4200 No. 3 Rd., 604-303-9906. $$$

AMERICAN GRILLE
Located in the Marriott Hotel, the American Grille has earned its stripes with guests and locals—there’s more than rote hotel cooking at work here, even rotating table d’hôte menus that change every second Sunday. The bright, quiet dining room dresses the part. Servers are exceptionally well trained and knowledgeable. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 7571 Westminster Hwy., 604- 232-2804. $$-$$$

BAMBOO GROVE
David Jue’s Bamboo Grove deserves a medal for the mere fact that it’s remained a neighbourhood hot spot after a quarter century in Richmond’s cutthroat market. Consistent, heartwarming, sizzling-hot-to-the-table black cod and garlic, and roasted pork and oyster clay-pots are the sort of trend-defying rustic fare we cross bridges for. And once there, we can’t resist the succulent lobster in cream sauce, the perfectly textured fried rice with compoy and tobiko, and the ethereal, panna cotta-like milk dessert. Prix-fixe offerings—priced by number of dishes you order—comes with a complimentary Dungeness crab and a lao huo (long-simmered) soup of the day. CHINESE. 6920 No. 3 Rd., 604-278-9585. $$

CHEN'S SHANGHAI KITCHEN
Show up early for lunch to avoid the inevitable lineup at this bustling little spot for house-made Shanghainese dumplings and dim sum; a shared table is a small price to pay for top-notch food. Xiao-long bao (soup “buns”) bursting with clean, rich broth are served with dark vinegar and slivered ginger for dipping—unequivocally, the city’s best. Jolt your palate with their take on dan dan noodles in a peanutty sauce that packs a chili wallop. Light, flaky pastries filled with sweet crushed black sesame take top marks for dessert. CHINESE. 8095 Park Rd., 604-304-8288. $-$$

ELLIE
Ellie doesn’t pretend to be more than a café: it has no licence, closes at 10 p.m. and keeps the atmosphere casual with its tight seating, relentless Canto-pop and, for decor, giant Escher posters. In other words, it looks and feels like your average storefront eatery in KL or Taipei. But the food is clear and distinct with meaty prawns and crunchy asparagus in sambal sauce a clear winner. Chicken with three sauces, served in a steamy hot stone pot, ties for second with the Malay curry laksa, loaded with tofu, seafood, and cilantro. MALAYSIAN. Unit 1111, Continental Centre, 3779 Sexsmith Rd., 604-232-0999. $-$$

EMPIRE SEAFOOD
The menu mixes banquet-style dishes (crispy Peking duck carved tableside) with homestyle fare. Dungeness crab is glazed in a golden sauce of salted duck egg yolks—order a bowl of rice to sop up the rich sauce. A hot pot of fried cod filets and tofu puffs is comfort food elevated by precise cooking technique. Anise scented braised pork belly is served with braised bok choy and little steamed buns. As with many Richmond restaurants, the more interesting items are on the Chinese only menu, but servers are friendly and will guide you to seasonal specials. CHINESE. 200-7997 Westminster Hwy., 604-249-0080. $$$

GLOBE&YVR
In his second year, executive chef Roger Planiden has taken this light-flooded in-terminal restaurant, bar and lounge (with comfy settees and sofas) to an even higher plane—many in the know prefer it to the airlines’ first-class lounges for its attentively executed food and creative cocktails. A monthly fresh sheet reflects seasons, but roasted sablefish ($32), rare seared Ahi tuna ($39), and grilled B.C. Bison Tenderloin ($46) are consistently available, accompanied by Hazelmere Farm organic sides. The extensive wine list focusses on elusive B.C. bottles like Blue Mountain and there’s a deep draft beer and scotch list. Globe@YVR will validate parking for one hour after 6 p.m. on P2, P3, or the economy lot. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Vancouver International Airport, 3111 Grant McConachie Way, 604-248-3281. $$-$$$

GOLDEN SZECHUAN
Friendly servers eagerly help neophytes navigate a myriad of dishes featuring bright flavours enhanced by the piney, citrusy bite of Sichuan peppercorns. Chili-boiled beef is a rich, piquant stew with tremendous depth of flavour. Thin slices of pork belly are served cold, ready to be dipped in a fiery sauce—long strips of cucumber help to quench the flames. Resist the urge to dial up the heat with every menu selection though; milder dishes such as pea shoots sautéed in garlic help to counteract the spice and balance out your meal. CHINESE. 170-3631 No. 3 Rd., 604-270-4118; 1788 W. Broadway, 604-738-3648. $$

HON'S WUN-TUN HOUSE
Chainlet of quick, efficient, budget-conscious Chinese food. Hon’s is known for their potstickers: pork, beef, chicken or vegetarian served pan-fried, steamed or in broth. The special vegetarian menu is vast, featuring items such as vegetarian goose (bean curd skin roll) and hearty hot and sour vegetarian soup. Hon’s are always packed, the kitchen is always in a hurry (sometimes sacrificing quality), but the price is right. 1339 Robson St., Downtown, 604-685-0871, 101 - 4600 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-0871 (also in New Westminster and Coquitlam). $

KELONG SINGAPORE
Singaporean cuisine here is top notch. Rotis—tender, flaky and crisp, served with a bright curry dip—make for a great starter. The classic fortifying soup, bah kut teh (literally “spare rib tea” in Chinese) is a deeply soothing broth scented with herbal wolf berries. The laksa was a perfect balance of coconut cream, sprightly spices, and seafood flavors. Definitely worth seeking out through the Canada Line construction on No. 3. OTHER ASIAN. 130-4800 No. 3 Rd., 604-821-9883. $

KIRIN MANDARIN/KIRIN SEAFOOD
City Square mall finds Cantonese-style cuisine focused on daily delivered seafood. Kirin specializes in banquets at a cost of $398-888 for a table of 10, but ordering à la carte is also viable. Tops is the “gold and silver lobster”—a whole lobster stir-fried with veggies, its legs deep-fried with rock salt and pepper. Service here is attentive and the city view—temporarily marred by condo cranes—breathtaking. 2nd Floor, 555 W. 12th Ave., South Cambie, 604-879-8038; also 102-1166 Alberni St., West End, 604-682-8833; 2nd Floor, 7900 Westminster Hwy., Richmond, 604-303-8833. $$$-$$$$

KIYO SUSHI
They say the gods live in the details, and it’s the little things done well that elevate this neighborhood favourite to the next level. Properly seasoned sushi rice, screamingly fresh seafood, and sure-handed preparation will have you looking at old favourites with renewed zeal. Anango sushi had just the right amount of sweet char. The cold udon noodles are a stand out—the thin rice noodles, accompanied by a zaru soba dipping sauce, have a satisfying chew, the hallmark of well prepared noodles. JAPANESE. 110-11590 Cambie St., 604-214-1388. $$

MAK'S NOODLE HOUSE
Its namesake is an old-school wonton house in Hong Kong, where only VIP customers order off menu and grumpy waiters speed you through your meal with hyper efficiency. Luckily, the local Richmond ownership team takes a more democratic approach. Served in small, Hong Kong portions, the noodles have a toothsome bite and the broth is deep and clear. Start off with the gold standard wonton and noodles in soup, and decide on your second plate as you finish your first—we recommend beef brisket lo mein, tender brisket braised with star anise, nestled in noodles. Add a dish of boiled gai lan with oyster sauce, or succulent fried chicken wings, to round out your meal. CHINESE. 185-8291 Alexandra Rd., 604-231-8141. $

MCKIM WONTON MEIN SAGA
What’s in a name? As it turns out, here there’s a good deal. The word “saga”—a homonym of sai ga (which means an ancient and prominent family in Cantonese) is an emphatic declaration that this is a branch of the Wellington Street original—widely regarded as the best wonton noodle house in Hong Kong. True to its pedigree, the wontons here are dainty, delicately wrapped morsels packed with shrimp, and the house-made noodles are thin but fabulously chewy in texture. Chef’s specials worth checking out include a tasty crabmeat with sautéed peatops platter, stir-fried shrimp with walnut and green beans, and an oxtail and daikon stew served in a clay pot. CHINESE. 1180-8788 McKim Way, 604-270-6632. $-$$

NAN CHUU
Nan Chuu—literally “southern kitchen”—is the Richmond offspring of West End izakaya institution Gyoza King and a worthy successor at that. Learned preparation of prawn, pork and chive gyozas ($5.25) and juicy tori no karaage (fried chicken; $5.75) keep these classics timeless, although new items, such as the maguro yukke (albacore tuna tartare served with a quail egg; $6.25) and atsugiri gyu tan (grilled beef tongue; $5.95) are also great. Rustic decor and earthenware are holdovers from the original location, but softer lighting and a couple of large semi-private tables in the back make this the more comfortable room. Perfect for small parties. JAPANESE. 1160-8391 Alexandra Rd., Richmond, 604-276-8391. $$

NORTHERN DELICACY
A nod to a traditional Northern Chinese tea house from the Tropika group, this comfortable open room on the second floor of cavernous Aberdeen Centre mall is elegantly folksy—but with a glassed-fronted dim sum kitchen. The ring-bound photo menu—which comes with a warning against pilfering and a price tag of $150—makes neophyte point-and-order a breeze. Shanghai-style offerings see soupy, handmade noodle bowls including a spicy and sour soup, or mild noodles with tender chicken. Tea-smoked duck ($13.95), sautéed egg whites with crab and broccoli ($14.95), and clay pot, salt-cured pork and bok choy steamed rice ($4.50) are fine supper fare. CHINESE. 2788-4151 Hazelbridge Way, 604-233-7050. $-$$

PARKER PLACE MALL FOOD COURT
Seasoned travellers—weary from running the airport security gauntlet—can quiet wanderlust here with a dose of the Asian “food street” experience. While the offerings tend to play to the predominantly Chinese clientele, the variety is culturally diverse. A recent graze around the energetic dancing fountain that centres this busy, sky-lit food court netted Hong Kong-style baked seafood in cream sauce on rice from Good Food; a bowl of Vietnamese pho from Pak Kee; chili bean paste-spiked pork and vegetable wontons from Shanghai Goodies; a take-home snack of Singapore-style beef and salmon jerkies at Mai Mei Hong; and a Japanese-style crêpe filled with nutella, bananas and cream from Bon Crepe… you get the drift. ASIAN. 4380 No.3 Rd., Richmond, 604-273-0276. $-$$

QUILON
Though standard Indian dishes are well represented, the big draw are the giant, tangy, chewy, crêpe-like dosas. The onion rava masala dosa is studded with chilies and peppercorns, folded over spiced potatoes and onions. Served with a small side of spicy soup (sambal), it makes for a sweat inducing meal. Iced mango lassi provides soothing cool. INDIAN. 6030 No. 3 Rd., Richmond, 604-303-0011. $

RICHMOND MANDARIN RESTAURANT
Roasted squab has a crackling crisp skin and succulently rich flesh. A dish of spareribs steamed with garlic, black beans on a bed of kabocha squash is a supersized version a dim sum favorite. Slices of duck stir fried with spicy XO sauce (a mix of chilies and dried seafood) is served with sweet peas to balance flavours. Discs of deep fried custard tofu are dressed in a conpoy (dried scallops) sauce with braised bak chop. A plate of warm cookies, including meltingly rich almond cookies, was a welcome alternative to the ubiquitous red bean soup. Service is pleasant and professional. CHINESE. 2200-8181 Cambie Rd., 604-270-3003. $$

RIVER ROCK CASINO RESORT: TRAMONTO
Casinos and fine dining used to be mutually exclusive here. That was before the owners of the River Rock wisely decided to poach talent from some of the best rooms in town and create a restaurant that offers a welcome respite from the zangly buzz downstairs—and some quality (if mainstream) fare. The rack of lamb with butter bean ragout, grilled artichokes and wilted arugula ($38) is dependable, as is the guinea fowl infused with saffron citrus, served with a creamy polenta ($38). The wine list is well-chosen and fairly deep, although pricey in spots. But hey, sit back and enjoy il tramonto—the sunset—then go feed some coins into a slot machine and who knows, maybe you’ll pay for dinner. 8811 River Rd., 604-247-8900. $$$-$$$$

SHANGHAI RIVER RESTAURANT
Recent expansion added a proper entranceway and private dining rooms, but reservations remain mandatory for a table at this well-run Richmond top spot. Shanghai dumplings—bite-sized, thin-skinned and oozing with hot broth; excellent potstickers (pan-fried pork dumplings); intriguing goose liver sticky rice sui mai, and fluffy silver-thread bread are made-to-order in the glassed-in dim sum kitchen. Our favourites from the main kitchen include a double-boiled duck soup with ham and bamboo shoots; crunchy, clean, sea-sweet stir-fried shrimp; and meltingly braised tung po pork belly in a lightly sweet winey brown sauce. The menu amuses with spelling lapses, just one more reason to go. CHINESE. 110-7831 Westminster Hwy., 604-233-8885. $$

SHANGHAI WONDERFUL
The cooking team from Shanghai Wind has set up a shop at this new restaurant, more room to show their cooking prowess. Start with chilled and thinly sliced cured duck meat wrapped around salted duck egg yolks—charcuterie heaven—or cold tofu topped with chopped pickles, preserved eggs, and dried shrimp, dressed in a vinegary soy. Move on to the deep fried cake of shredded cured duck and taro root, or cured pork belly and tofu over braised bak choy The kitchen crew makes a habit of starting up restaurants and moving on—so catch them before a new location catches their eye. CHINESE. 110-8380 Lansdowne Rd., 604-278-8829. $$

SHIANG GARDEN
Even by the standards of overblown Chinese restaurant design, Shiang Garden takes the gilded cake. The soaring ceilings, gigantic glittering chandeliers, and huge canvases of hunting scenes are definitely out there. The food carries forward the same spirit of largesse. Look for the the classic Shanghainese style dish of egg whites scrambled with crabmeat and pork neck meat stir fried with spicy green beans. Dim Sum aficionados swear by the steamed shrimp dumplings and the pillowy soft barbecue pork buns. CHINESE. 4540 No. 3 Rd., 604-273-8858. $$

SUN SUI WAH
Expert dim sum and later, top-flight seafood dishes. It’s a must-visit on the culinary trail for its king crab (carapace in black bean sauce, legs in garlic) and whole flash-fried fish. The once-groundbreaking decor is getting a little shabby but the service is gracious, and the wine list goes all the way to match the savoury and occasionally spicy cuisine. Many a Chinese celebration has been held here, and for good reason. 3888 Main St., South Main, 604-872-8822; 102-4940 No. 3 Rd., 604-683-8208. $$$

SUSHI HACHI
Run by a husband and wife team (you might hear their daughters playing in the employees’ only room); the room is an oasis of tranquil calm with muted colors and jazz playing quietly in the background. The remarkably fresh sushi and sashimi is served at a deliberate pace and reminds you that sashimi is a special meal and that should be savored. Recent fresh sheet items include an elegant bowl of sea snails in a cold dashi broth, large sweet sea scallop sushi, and briny fresh oysters dressed in a light Japanese vinaigrette served on the half shell. The emphasis here is on seafood, so the selection of hot foods is limited. Arrive early—the room is open from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. only, and the good stuff goes quickly. JAPANESE. 1278-8888 Odlin Cres., 604-207-2882. $$

TOP SHANGHAI
Top Shanghai delivers some of Richmond’s best Shanghainese food. Chilled appetizers are a specialty of this northern cuisine. Cold jellied pork is served with a dark vinegar dipping sauce that cuts the richness and lifts the cured flavors. Cold poached, free-range drunken chicken is perfectly tender; the braised pork hock is epic in size, succulent and rich. Garlic chili pork (known as “fish fragrant” in Chinese, though the dish contains no fish) has the right balance of heat and sweet notes. Service, though, can range from perfunctory to outright rude. If you want to see sharp elbows in action, drop by for lunch and watch competing patrons try to enforce reservations. CHINESE. 120-8100 Ackroyd Rd., 604-278-8798. $$

TSIM CHAI NOODLES
In Hong Kong, Tsim Chai Noodles is located right across the street from its rival, Mak’s Noodle House. The battle for noodle supremacy continues in Richmond where both restaurants have established popular branches. Tsim’s wonton noodles are more generously sized than Mak’s, however, their secret weapon is a luxuriously smooth congee, with a full flavour achieved by cooking the raw ingredients in the base. Try the Hong Kong style minced beef congee, served with scallions and crisp fried peanuts and order a plate of deep fried bread (or “donuts”) to dip in the congee—a complete carbo-load experience. CHINESE. 50-8251 Westminster Hwy., 604-273-6288. $

XIANHENG RESTAURANT
Xianheng was propelled to fame when renowned Chinese novelist Lu Xun used it as a setting in his story, Kong Yiji. The now posh and popular Shaoxing-based restaurant has since expanded into Shanghai, Beijing and beyond, and, most recently, Richmond. Situated in a strip mall at the corner of Cook and No. 3, this grand enterprise is announced only by a man-sized porcelain vase standing sentinel at the unassuming entrance. Photo-decorated menus inform diners on Zhejiang specialties such as pork with dried vegetables (braised pork belly with preserved brassica), four-flavour fish (steamed with colourful bands of ginger, scallions, bean paste, chilies and garlic), and egg yolk beef presented in a stone bowl on a bed of caramelized onions, topped with a raw egg. Start with a cold amuse of the confit-like Nanjing salty duck. CHINESE. 7-6340 No. 3 Rd., 604-278-0709. $$

YAOHAN CENTRE
Fierce competition has made Yaohan Centre one of the cheapest places to fill your belly around these parts. Full-meal combos with rice that allow you to choose three items from the heaping buffeteria steam tables—they’re peer-standardized at $5.25 from outlets like Chun Hing Cuisine and Golden Rice Bowl. Variety is offered at Pak Tak Chiu Chow Restaurant, which makes an authentic spice-poached duck; at Seoul Express where you’ll find ramen bowls and bibimbap; and at the Curry House if you fancy Malaysian-style curries and roti canai. The place is not long on atmosphere, we’ll agree. But the large fluorescent-lit, plastic seating area is a convenient place for the adventurous to take a load off after exploring the impressive Osaka Market across the foyer. CHINESE/ASIAN. 3700 No. 3 Rd., 604-231-0601. $-$$

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STEVESTON

KISAMOS
Among the fish and chip shops in Steveston you’ll find Kisamos—an authentic Greek restaurant run by two Greek sisters. Stop in for lunch specials served with friendly and efficient service. Family dinners see tender-crisp calamari ($8.25), saganaki (fried cheese) ($6.95), or garlic prawns ($8.25). The Kisamos Platter for two is a reasonable $35.95; it’s packed with dolmathes, moussaka, tiropita, lamb chops, pork, and chicken souvlaki, calamari, hummus, tzatziki, pita, and Greek salad. GREEK. 3420 Moncton St., 604-277-5626. $$

PAJO'S
When the sun shines, the fish and chips are frying at one or all of Pajo’s fish and chip huts, but if there’s rain, call first. Along with cod, salmon and halibut choices, there are shrimp skewers, crab cakes, hamburgers, hot dogs, and even poutine. Fries are made in-house and the fish is fresh as can be. INFORMAL. Bayview and 3rd St., Steveston 604-272-1588; at Garry Point, Steveston, 604-204-0767; Rocky Point Park, Port Moody, 604-469-2289; Gates Park, Port Coquitlam, 604-461-5527.

REFLECTIONS GASTRONOMIE
A newcomer this year, Reflections Gastronomie offers brunch, lunch, afternoon tea, and dinner service, riverside in charming Steveston. With a European menu and white linen tablecloths, this fine dining establishment is drawing the locals and tourists in with weekly live jazz and salsa dancers. House specialties include the deconstructed Russian salad ($9), rack of lamb stuffed with feta cheese and roast garlic ($38), and the cocoa and red wine braised short ribs ($35). OTHER EUROPEAN. 140-3900 Bayview St., 604-241-3005.

STEVESTON SEAFOOD
House Chef Sushila Narain has been cooking at this Steveston landmark for 28 years. Locals frequent for the reliable menu and friendly service; recent renovations have opened up the cruise ship-like room. The Caesar salad ($5.95) is creamily good, as are old-school favourites such as devils on horseback (sea scallops in bacon at $9.95), calamari ($8.95), or pan-fried oysters ($9.95). For mains the jambalaya is tasty ($22.95). SEAFOOD. 3951 Moncton St., 604-271-5252. $$

TAPENADE BISTRO
Start with olive tapenade with crostini ($5), but also try the chicken liver parfait brule ($10)—the country cousin of foie gras—and the seared sea scallops atop minted pea risotto ($19). Steveston is all about seafood, so order their boulillabaisse ($26) or sablefish with mixed mushrooms and saffron in garlic cream ($25). Red meat lovers take comfort—the braised beef short ribs ($26) are tender and flavourful. SEAFOOD. 3711 Bayview St., 604-275-5188. $$

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SURREY

HONG MA NO KOREAN RESTAURANT
This hole-in-the-wall, diner-like restaurant has some of the tastiest and most affordable Korean-Chinese dishes in the ’burbs. Highlights include a generous portion of deep-fried dumplings ($7.99) and spicy seafood noodle soup ($7.99). Service is slow and sometimes dour, but an efficient kitchen means food always arrives quickly. OTHER ASIAN. #102, 10330-152nd St., 604-634-0111. $-$$

MAHEK RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
Scott Road in Surrey is an endless strip of hole-in-the-wall South Asian takeout places. Surprise: Mahek features ornate furnishings and artwork that sumptuously evokes the Raj. Sauces built from the ground up are evidenced in such dishes as the deep red lamb vindaloo. Don’t leave without sampling the famed chicken chili, tandoori prawns, or fish bengali with coconut curry. And that classic, butter chicken, is done beautifully here, with its gentle murk of creamy tomato-tinged gravy (all $11.95). INDIAN. 9470-120th St., 604-585-3331. $$

THE OLD SURREY
Located in a heritage building in Newton, The Old Surrey mixes English charm with French cuisine. Owner Philip Aguirre runs a farm where they raise produce for the restaurant. Specialties include half Fraser valley duckling ($24.95), broiled lobster and chateaubriand (double filet mignon with red wine sauce for two at $75). Four course prix fixe pegged at $36.95 begets mussels, soup of the day or salad, veal cutlets and a house-made kahlua cheesecake. FRENCH. 13483-72nd Ave, 604-596-2313. $$$

THE VAULT
A sleek room with dark decor, named after the two vaults from its previous bank incarnation. A large list of cocktails and wine lure devout Friday night crowds, but there’s also a worthy menu. Roasted beet spinach salad with feta ($7.99) makes a good starter, as do the garlic prawns atop rice noodles ($8.99), or crispy veggie spring rolls ($7.99). Mains range from rack of lamb ($27.99) to a mixed seafood grill ($22.99) with tasty pastas such as penne quattro fromaggio ($13.99). CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 5764 176th St., Cloverdale, 604-576-4243. $$

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TSAWWASSEN

BEACHES RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
The Coast Hotel’s executive chef, Pascal Dagorne has refined the hotel’s menu and is attracting a strong following. It’s worth a stop before or after the ferry to sample nightly specialties such as the fresh fig, goat cheese and caramelized onion tart or foie gras panini with quail egg and Bordeaux wine jelly. The regular menu sports mains such as wild salmon escalope with potato crust ($22.95) and a double lamb rack with a garlic and grainy mustard crust ($27.95). Nice weekend brunch menu, too. The service is attentive and knowledgeable. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Coast Tsawwassen Inn, 1665-56th St., 604-943-8221. $$$

ILLUMINATE
Roland Smith opened Illuminate in October 2005, elevating Italian dining in Tsawwassen in a modern room with attentive service. Tender calamari is cloaked in a zesty tomato sauce ($12); gnocchi in a rose sauce with prawns is plush; and both the veal scallopini ($24) and seared ahi tuna with a leek and soy vinaigrette ($27) are house favourites. Good selection of B.C. and international wines on a well-researched list from the new private wine cellar. ITALIAN. 125-1077 56th St., 604-943-5900. $$-$$$

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WHITE ROCK

CRESCENT STREET BISTRO
There are people who’ve eaten here every week for 20 years. And why not? The atmosphere’s informal, the food’s pretty decent (the abundant seafood salad, at $12, is a serious bargain, and the rack of lamb never disappoints), the wine list is limited but adequate, and the leafy patio on a warm evening has a timeless, communal, summery feeling that makes Crescent Beach its own little world. informal. 12251 Beecher St., 604-531-1882. $$

GIRAFFE
Overlooking the pier and across to the Semiahmoo peninsula in Washington, this White Rock fixture attracts a faithful clientele who come for chef Warren Jackson’s sure hand in the kitchen and front man Jamie Humphrey’s crisp affability. Crab wontons and prawn fritters are starters of choice; for mains, the meat and seafood dishes (PC alert: including sea bass) are generally superior to the pastas, which sometimes come overcooked and oversauced. Small, reasonable wine list. A dependable spot, perhaps overly so: regulars will tell you it could use a good kick in the menu. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 15053 Marine Dr., 604-538-6878. $$$

HARBOUR HOUSE
Owner/chef Kevin Wall has created the most appealing room in Crescent Beach, a favourite of locals and, increasingly, of visitors who happen upon it. In a warmly commodious space, diners of all stripes enjoy the friendly vibe and mostly excellent fare. Beef tenderloin and rack of lamb are dependable, if predictable; the braised wild boar penne with mozzarella and fresh basil and the herb-crusted escolar (Costa Rican butterfish) take wonderful walks on the wild side. Excellent (and reasonable) Sunday brunch. The wine list is brief but well-chosen. In good weather, book the patio. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 101-12233 Beecher St., 604-542-3271.

KIMBERLY’S GILLS & GRAPES
On the hill in White Rock, far from the madding crowd on the beachfront strip, this genial spot gets by on a friendly vibe, a great bar, and food that’s unfailingly serviceable if never superb. Stick with the simple stuff—mussels in lemongrass cream; breast of free-range chicken with a kumquat glaze and potatoes—and you won’t go wrong. It’s also a great place to dine solo at the bar, where it’s easy to become pals with the guy beside you. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1225 Johnston Rd., 604-542-0334. $$$

PEARL ON THE ROCK
The question for restaurateurs on the White Rock strip: how to lure diners away from the populous, well-served regions to the north? The answer, as supplied by youthful proprietors Nicholas and Angela Popoff and executive chef George Koay: turn out memorable takes on contemporary Pacific dishes such as (for starters) a “diver-caught” scallop with twice-cooked Berkshire pork belly, vanilla bourbon reduction and organic baby greens ($14; do scallops taste better when divers catch them?), and (for mains) peppercorn-crusted Queen Charlotte halibut with spring pea purée, baby potato and truffle mushroom foam ($27). Also: build an impressively growing wine list full of smartly chosen B.C. bottles as well as the usual Old and New World suspects. And last: create a dessert, the flight of chocolate, so wicked they’ll forgive themselves for breaking caloric vows. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 14955 Marine Dr., 604-542-1064. $$$

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