Greek

APOLLONIA
Among the area’s very few off-Granville Island dining options is a sweet Greek restaurant as serene as the Mediterranean vistas on the wall. No surprises on the menu, but the souvlaki ($14.95-16.95) has a nice charred smokiness and the lamb (slow-roasted leg, $15.95; or broiled loin or chops, $17.95) is flavourful. Hearty moussaka ($14.95) sees silky béchamel, fragrant meat, eggplant and zucchini layers in a thin-sliced potato shell. Locals take out the thick, crisp pizzas, like the feta-rich spinach and artichoke ($13.95-17.95). 1830 Fir St., False Creek, 604-736-9559. $$

ATHENE'S
Athene’s is smack in the heart of Broadway’s Hellenic district and, as Frank said, “If you can make it there you can make it anywhere.” The food is solid, which means that in addition to such gems as Arni Psito (slow-roasted lamb shoulder, $16.95) and kalamaris skaras (marinated, charbroiled squid $13.95), there is the requisite baked lasagna ($10.95) and a page of pizza selections. Stick with the former and you’ll do just fine. And, while West Broadway isn’t going to be mistaken for the Aegean any time soon, when the large windows open up and a breeze blows in you can almost imagine you are at a taverna in Rhodes. Solid as a Spartan. 3618 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-731-4135. $$

BOUZYOS
Raucous and roiling Greek taverna drives locals back for its authentic cuisine, live entertainment and even livelier patio. Homemade moussaka ($15) and four different types of calamari are sought-after signatures, and the whopping two- and three-course Greek feasts would satisfy Dionysus himself. Throw in live music most weekends, a belly dancer every Friday night and a martini list longer than the Hippocratic oath, and you’ve got the makings for a night of Olympic-sized fun. 1815 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2533. $$-$$$

THE MAIN
Home-style Greek—sans blue paint and Aegean travel posters—from Harry and Arinianakis Prinianakis (ex-Appolonia) draws cross-town diners for the huge portion of braised lamb shank. Go with a group and order multiple metzes: the skordalia, tzatziki, spanakopita and dolmades are meaningful. Thursday through Saturday, a smaller menu is available after 9:30 p.m. when live music starts up. 4210 Main St., South Main, 604-709-8555. $$-$$$

MARIA'S TAVERNA
Maria’s Taverna is the most classic version of Greek eateries we have come to expect in Vancouver—the menu features the usual superfluous baked pasta and pizza options (ah, the Greek classics), the red wine is always served way too warm and everybody seems to be enjoying themselves, regardless. And while the menu is stock, even such basics as chicken souvlaki ($14.95) and saganaki ($7.50) are better than the competition and the braised shoulder of lamb is terrific. Ask, no beg, them to turn down the Greek techno music and you’ll have a fine time. 2324 W. 4th, Kitsilano, 604-731-4722. $$

OUZERI
Bustling Broadway destination houses an extensive selection of Greek tapas that require an Acropolis-sized appetite. Lemon-seared saganaki ($9.50) and signature char-grilled lamb chops for two ($12.95) are meals unto themselves. The pace gets frenetic on the weekends, when the tsantalis flows and locals clamour for seats to gorge on generous portions of slow-roasted lamb ($15.95) and lamb souvlaki ($14.95). When it’s available, Mama’s homemade baklava ($5.95) is not to be missed. 3189 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-9378. $$

STEPHO'S SOUVLAKI GREEK TAVERNA
This is a place lined up daily for plates piled high with Greek rice and potatoes. There is nothing all that redeeming about the burn ‘n’ turn food or service here—it’s a cheap eats and volume thing. Menu covers the usual suspects such as spanakopita ($4.95) calamari ($7.45 for appetizer, $9.95 for dinner), lamb, chicken, beef and prawn souvlaki ($7.95-$10.45) and roast lamb ($9.45). 1124 Davie St., West End, 604-683-2555. $-$$

TAKIS' TAVERNA
A West End staple where the staff are friendly and welcoming. Outstanding saganaki—baked cheese ($8.95)—and afelia—pan-fried lean pork in a red wine sauce with hints of coriander and garlic ($8.95)—are perfect for sharing with hummus and tzatziki. Traditional souvlaki ($9.95-$12.95) or kleftiko—roast lamb ($13.50)—will satisfy meat lovers; vegetarians will enjoy the fresh spinach pie ($6.95) or the vegetarian moussaka ($12.95). Lunch portions are smaller and cheaper. 1106 Davie St., West End, 604-682-1336. $

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