Greek
APOLLONIA
Among the area’s very few off-Granville Island
dining options is a sweet Greek restaurant as serene
as the Mediterranean vistas on the wall. No surprises
on the menu, but the souvlaki ($14.95-16.95) has a nice
charred smokiness and the lamb (slow-roasted leg, $15.95;
or broiled loin or chops, $17.95) is flavourful. Hearty
moussaka ($14.95) sees silky béchamel, fragrant
meat, eggplant and zucchini layers in a thin-sliced
potato shell. Locals take out the thick, crisp pizzas,
like the feta-rich spinach and artichoke ($13.95-17.95).
1830 Fir St., False Creek, 604-736-9559. $$
ATHENE'S
Athene’s is smack in the heart of Broadway’s
Hellenic district and, as Frank said, “If you
can make it there you can make it anywhere.” The
food is solid, which means that in addition to such
gems as Arni Psito (slow-roasted lamb shoulder, $16.95)
and kalamaris skaras (marinated, charbroiled squid $13.95),
there is the requisite baked lasagna ($10.95) and a
page of pizza selections. Stick with the former and
you’ll do just fine. And, while West Broadway
isn’t going to be mistaken for the Aegean any
time soon, when the large windows open up and a breeze
blows in you can almost imagine you are at a taverna
in Rhodes. Solid as a Spartan. 3618 W. Broadway,
Kitsilano, 604-731-4135. $$
BOUZYOS
Raucous and roiling Greek taverna drives locals back
for its authentic cuisine, live entertainment and even
livelier patio. Homemade moussaka ($15) and four different
types of calamari are sought-after signatures, and the
whopping two- and three-course Greek feasts would satisfy
Dionysus himself. Throw in live music most weekends,
a belly dancer every Friday night and a martini list
longer than the Hippocratic oath, and you’ve got
the makings for a night of Olympic-sized fun. 1815
Commercial Dr., 604-254-2533. $$-$$$
THE MAIN
Home-style Greek—sans blue paint and Aegean travel
posters—from Harry and Arinianakis Prinianakis
(ex-Appolonia) draws cross-town diners for the huge
portion of braised lamb shank. Go with a group and order
multiple metzes: the skordalia, tzatziki, spanakopita
and dolmades are meaningful. Thursday through Saturday,
a smaller menu is available after 9:30 p.m. when live
music starts up. 4210 Main St., South Main, 604-709-8555.
$$-$$$
MARIA'S TAVERNA
Maria’s Taverna is the most classic version of
Greek eateries we have come to expect in Vancouver—the
menu features the usual superfluous baked pasta and
pizza options (ah, the Greek classics), the red wine
is always served way too warm and everybody seems to
be enjoying themselves, regardless. And while the menu
is stock, even such basics as chicken souvlaki ($14.95)
and saganaki ($7.50) are better than the competition
and the braised shoulder of lamb is terrific. Ask, no
beg, them to turn down the Greek techno music and you’ll
have a fine time. 2324 W. 4th, Kitsilano, 604-731-4722.
$$
OUZERI
Bustling Broadway destination houses an extensive selection
of Greek tapas that require an Acropolis-sized appetite.
Lemon-seared saganaki ($9.50) and signature char-grilled
lamb chops for two ($12.95) are meals unto themselves.
The pace gets frenetic on the weekends, when the tsantalis
flows and locals clamour for seats to gorge on generous
portions of slow-roasted lamb ($15.95) and lamb souvlaki
($14.95). When it’s available, Mama’s homemade
baklava ($5.95) is not to be missed. 3189 W. Broadway,
Kitsilano, 604-739-9378. $$
STEPHO'S SOUVLAKI GREEK TAVERNA
This is a place lined up daily for plates piled high
with Greek rice and potatoes. There is nothing all that
redeeming about the burn ‘n’ turn food or
service here—it’s a cheap eats and volume
thing. Menu covers the usual suspects such as spanakopita
($4.95) calamari ($7.45 for appetizer, $9.95 for dinner),
lamb, chicken, beef and prawn souvlaki ($7.95-$10.45)
and roast lamb ($9.45). 1124 Davie St., West End,
604-683-2555. $-$$
TAKIS' TAVERNA
A West End staple where the staff are friendly and welcoming.
Outstanding saganaki—baked cheese ($8.95)—and
afelia—pan-fried lean pork in a red wine sauce
with hints of coriander and garlic ($8.95)—are
perfect for sharing with hummus and tzatziki. Traditional
souvlaki ($9.95-$12.95) or kleftiko—roast lamb
($13.50)—will satisfy meat lovers; vegetarians
will enjoy the fresh spinach pie ($6.95) or the vegetarian
moussaka ($12.95). Lunch portions are smaller and cheaper.
1106 Davie St., West End, 604-682-1336. $
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