RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Gulf Islands

Galiano
Mayne
North and South Pender
Salt Spring
Saturna




GALIANO


GALIANO INN
The island has some good restaurants, and Atrevida is perhaps the best. Steps from the ferry at Miner’s Bay, the Galiano Inn is a beautifully appointed respite, complete with tranquil gardens and soothing spa; the restaurant features mainly regional fare (rack of Salt Spring lamb, beef tenderloin, salmon) carefully prepared and the wine list includes reasonably priced, hard-to-find B.C. wines, expertly selected by sommelier Richard Massey. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 134 Madrona Dr., 250-539-3388. $$$

HARBOUR GRILL
A lively, low-key spot in the Montague Marine Harbour that serves hearty sandwiches with salad or house-made soup prepared fresh daily (the clam chowder is a favourite). Also recommended: the grilled lamb burger ($10.95). Beer by the bottle. INFORMAL. Montague Marine Harbour, 250-539-5733. $-$$

MARKET CAFÉ
The market itself carries wonderfully fresh, mainly organic fare; the café in back serves up terrific sandwiches, soups, and such. Egg salad on multi-grain has never tasted so good. INFORMAL. 250-539-2800. $

LA BERENGERIE
Run by the formidable, Avignon-born Huguette (“You don’t like my cat in the dining room? Why don’t you leave?”), this cosy little gem puts you in mind of a rustic spot in Provence. For dinner, choose from three prix-fixe menus (trout or Cornish hen, for example), and from two or three desserts (classic crème brulee, unbelievable peach cake). The wine list is small but adequate (the Joie rosé goes with everything), the prices modest. French. Montague Rd., 250-539-5392. $$-$$$



MAYNE


WILD FENNEL RESTAURANT
The room is pleasantly small and warm, the menu features fresh, often organic, coastal cuisine that changes weekly—go for the crab three ways (crab served in bisque, salad and lollipop form) if it’s an option. Entrées typically priced at or below $20. The all-B.C. wine card is well-edited (bottles from $29). CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 574 Fernhill Rd., 250-539-5987. $$-$$



NORTH AND SOUTH PENDER



AURORA RESTAURANT
This tasteful room at Poet’s Cove Resort and Spa, overlooking Bedwell Harbour, is executive chef Dennis Bio’s commendable shot at best fine dining in the Gulf Islands. The food relies on local ingredients, the menu rotates happily through the seasons, and the preparation is innovative and usually right on the money. Speaking of which, reserve before 6:30 p.m. and you’ll get a 10 percent discount. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 9801 Spalding Rd., 250-629-2115. $$$-$$$$

HOPE BAY CAFÉ
Just minutes from the Otter Bay ferry terminal, this spot has a sun-drenched patio and lovely views across Plumper Sound to Mayne and Saturna. It’s a great place to linger over a cool one—the fish and chips are decent, too. INFORMAL. 7-4301 Bedwell Harbour Rd., 250-629-6668. $


SALT SPRING


HASTINGS HOUSE
One of the don’t-miss dining spots in the Gulf Islands, Hastings House is perched on 22 acres overlooking Ganges Harbour and has a deserved reputation for consistently fine cuisine. Fresh ingredients, sourced from the island’s many organic growers, are given the royal treatment by chef Marcel Kauer, imaginatively married to halibut, salmon, and the lamb for which Salt Spring is famous. The wine list is carefully made and affordable. Book the verandah in good weather. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 160 Upper Ganges Rd., 800-661-9255. $$$$



SATURNA


SATURNA CAFE
Fabulous, straightforward food, much of it locally sourced, from Hubertus Surm at this spot adjoining the Saturna General Store. Open for lunch and dinner; reservations recommended for the latter. INFORMAL. 101 Naravez Bay Rd., 250-539-2936. $

 

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