Indian

ALL INDIA SWEETS RESTAURANT
Dessert is the main attraction here. Neon-coloured confections line long glass counters in an otherwise plain room. The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet looks a little the worse for wear, but worth a trip for budget-conscious vegetarians. The à la carte is a much better bet. 6507 Main St., South Vancouver, 604-327-0891. $

AKBAR'S OWN
Own what? You might wonder upon entering this restrained classical Indian eatery located on a quiet stretch of the Broadway corridor. This is a restaurant that is largely defined by what it isn’t, in that it does not have the fresh nouvelle approach of Vij’s or Rangoli nor does it have the timeless style and presentation of Maurya. What it does have is a solid approach to traditional Mughlai and Kashmiri specialties such as shrimp pakora ($8) lightly fried in chick-pea flour and the over comprehensive chicken tikka butter masala (isn’t that three different dishes?) for $11. Still the dishes are well executed and the service professional which makes this a solid if slightly uninspired choice. 1905 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-736-8180. $$

ANNAPURNA
Annapurna has been gracing the corner of Burrard and Fourth for the past decade and a half, but seems like it pre-dates Bob Geldof and nickel bags. The 1993 reviews prominently displayed from both the Sun and Province rave about the food, and you can take solace in the fact that both the traditional menu and decor are likely unchanged since those halcyon days. But the vegetarian menu is reasonably priced and consistent with such stalwarts as mutter paneer ($11.95) and kofda, the vegetarian version of the meatball ($11.95) doing the yeoman’s work. 1812 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-5959. $

ASHIANA TANDOORI
This long-standing east-side favourite is a world away from Kingsway’s frantic pace. Rick and Sonia Takhar have been serving classic Indian fare for almost 25 years, with dishes from their tandoori oven as the cornerstone of the menu. Peshwari chicken tikka arrives sizzing on a cast-iron plate, tender chunks of chicken marinated in yogurt, mustard and ground aromatic spices. Kashmiri lamb rogan josh has a complex flavour: rich, creamy and deep with a hint of sweet and finishing with a sharp heat. Onion-and-coriander-stuffed tandoori kulcha is perfect for mopping up the last remnants of curry. 1440 Kingsway, 604-874-5060. $$-$$$

CHUTNEY VILLA
Everyone gets hugs from warm and gregarious chef/owner Chindi Varardarajulu, whether it’s your first visit or, like many of her customers, your hundredth. This is south Indian cuisine promoted by whole spices, roasted for a crunchy, nutty flavour. A trio of chutneys might include freshly made apple, coconut and pineapple. The dosas are thin, light and slightly charred, ideal for mopping up lamb poriyal or any of the deeply spiced curries. R&B beer on tap, along with a few Indian bottles and wine selections or fresh lime cordial. South Indian brunch on weekends. Great value. 147 E. Broadway, South Main, 604-872-2228. $$

DEL-HI DARBAR
Try the masala dosa here: paper-thin crêpes with vegetable filling. Or the papri chat, spiced flour crisps with potatoes and chickpeas. And that’s just for starters. The murg tikka, chicken pieces in a spicy yogurt sauce, is excellent; you’ll be grateful for the naan to mop your plate clean. 2120 Main St., South Main, 604-877-7733. $-$$

INDIA BISTRO
Pillowed booths, soft lighting from jewelled lanterns and an authentic taste of India make this casual Davie Street bistro a gem. Indian-born owner Kamal Mroke offers a varied menu of meat, seafood and vegetarian selections that are both accessible and affordable. Lamb methi ($10.95) with fenugreek and garlic curry, murgh korma (chicken in a mild cashew curry) and a signature tandoori trout ($12.95) are sublime, and Mroke is always careful to tailor the spice to suit your palate. Be sure to sample some of his homemade naan (the peshwari naan in particular, baked with sundried fruits and nuts); finish with some spiced chai and mango pistachio ice cream. You could fill up at the lunch buffet for a mere $8.95, but the best items are à la carte. 1157 Davie St., West End, 604-684-6342. $$

INDIA GRILL
Tandoori dishes are the foundation here, but there are plenty of other options. Delicious samosas ($3.25-$3.99), pakoras ($5.99-$6.99) and onion bhajia ($5.99) will get you started, butter chicken—tender and fragrant, served with naan and aromatic rice ($13.99)—is a safe bet as an entrée. Choose from a nice selection of imported Indian beers—we suggest the Cheetah—to round out the meal. Delivery available. 1835 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-5777. $-$$

INDICA
Nestled in the West End is this cosy, romantic spot serving some of the best curries in the neighbourhood. The small but honed menu highlights the flavours of northern India. Start with the samosa and bhajiyas ($5) or the paneer poppers ($6), or, if you’re sharing, the veggie platter ($9-$13). The lamb curry ($12.99), butter chicken ($12.99) and vegetable jalfrezi ($10.99) are also very well done here. 1795 Pendrell St., West End, 604-609-3530. $$

JOLLY'S INDIAN BISTRO
Owner Jolly Kumar serves dhabas (street café)-style dishes inspired by his northern Indian upbringing at his namesake bistro. Start with the alu ki tikki (potato patties served with, chutney) or the homemade chicken sausage kebabs. All main dishes ($10 or less) come with fresh naan bread (a Frisbee-size portion), rice and salad with tangy mango dressing; choose from 12 different curries, including the creamy New Delhi shahi paneer (Indian cottage cheese). Over half of the menu items cater to vegetarians or vegans, and students love the $10 butter chicken and beer special. Cute little patio, too. 2778 W. 4th Ave, Kitsilano, 604-730-6929. $

MAURYA
The room is an airy ode to colonial decor, and if you squint your eyes you can imagine you’re interloping in the officers’ mess in Bangalore. The cuisine eschews the nouvelle flourishes of its doppelganger down the street, Vij’s, in favour of classical pan-Indian cuisine. Offerings such as rogan josh ($14.95) and goa chicken curry ($13.95) will not dazzle you with their ingenuity, only their taste. Plus Maurya takes reservations and has a brilliant internet takeout site. 1643 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-742-0622. $$

NOORU MAHAL
This basic, family-run spot on Fraser Street has the corner on Vancouver’s string hopper trade, serving cuisine from Sri Lanka as well as south Indian and Singaporean fare. The thin rice noodles curled into spirals are served with the curry of your choice—sample the Sri Lankan version that’s hotter and coconut-milk based. Top marks for the dosas with an arm’s-length list of fillings; light and outrageously flaky with a hint of sweet, they’re a meal in themselves. Service is leisurely but always earnest and friendly. 4354 Fraser St., East Side, 604-677-5651. $$

RANGOLI
Hi-tech cafeteria with vermilion red-tiled walls and floor specializes in takeout or eat-in entrées of jackfruit paranta with lentil dumplings and spiced yogurt ($13), lamb in Vij’s masala, and Kalonji chicken curry ($12). Heat-and-eat bags, reminiscent of Marks & Spencer’s packaged foods, are fussless take-aways. The Mother-in-Law’s pork curry is delicious. As for that best-on-the-planet mint-mango chutney, proprietor Vikram Vij from namesake landmark next door won’t divulge the recipe. Yet. 1488 W. 11th Ave., South Granville, 604-736-5711. $$

VIJ'S
Vij’s is one of the continent’s top Indian-inspired restaurants, wildly popular with locals and a must-visit for culinary tourists. Everything sings in cleanly wrought flavours; note the signature wine-marinated lamb chop “popsicles” glazed with fenugreek curry, and served with turmeric-inflected spinach and potatoes, Punjabi saag and homemade paneer. The menu changes rapidly but is always delicious, and the host, Vikram Vij, is a dervish, and always available for recommendations—especially on seasonal fish dishes such as a mildly spiced, creamily sauced halibut and a mussel bowl with eggplant-potato tikki and candied walnuts. The wine list, with each bottle gently priced, is a perfect while-u-wait antidote: Vij’s maintains an egalitarian, no reservations policy—we’ve spotted princes on the patio, nursing soothing Storm India Pale Ales, and happy to mix with the hoi polloi. 1480 W. 11th Ave., South Granville, 604-736-6664. $$-$$$

BACK TO REVIEWS HOME