RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Informal


APHRODITE'S ORGANIC CAFE
One of the few spots that can legitimately bill itself as all organic, all the time—many items are straight from a Glen Valley farm that morning. Every item is in season, from home-baked breads to soup. The chicken is from Thomas Reid and the water is from the farm well. Vegetables are unfiddled; handmade spelt-flour pizza carries a tumble of wild mushrooms and organic sheep’s milk feta from McClellan Farms. Pick up one of chef’s fruit pies next door. Watch for changes here: they’ll soon be expanding their kitchen. 3598 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-738-5879. $$

BELGIAN FRIES
With nine styles of poutine and 12 types of mayo for dipping, the Belgian frites here may have their French counterparts beat. While burgers (beef, $7.94; salmon, $8.47) are now available as “sides” to your generous portion of fries, consider saving those calories for the deep-fried Mars bar topped with whipped cream and drizzled with raspberry sauce ($3.50). Everything is made in-house and service is quick and cheerful. Sit in or take out, but bring cash. 1885 Commercial Dr., 604-253-4220. $

BON'S OFF BROADWAY
This East Van institution—with its battered booths, frayed carpets and poster-plastered yellow walls—is always full, serving its famous all-day breakfast for less than you’ll find in your couch cushions. Just $3.95 gets you bottomless coffee, a heaping helping of eggs, sausage, hash browns and toast, plus a front-row seat to serious people watching—from Bon’s motley crew of servers scurrying to handle the overflow to bleary-eyed patrons attempting to eat themselves out of a hangover. 2451 Nanaimo St., Commercial Drive, 604-253-7242. $

BROWNS SOCIAL HOUSE
After a rebrand and an expansion from two locations to four (now in Kits, West Van, North Van, and Yaletown), we hope the owners/franchisees of Browns might pause for breath and regroup before mushrooming any further. Each location is Old Navy slick: pretty and toned, to be sure, but with a relevance shelf life that can be measured in months rather than years. The kitchen sink menu, which reads like it was focus-grouped by stoned teenagers, slakes the beer thirsts of its target market (try getting a seat on a weekend evening). Thanks to bad/good lathers of sauce and a liberal interpretation of seasoning, just about everything is tasty from overdressed salads to clumsily spiced noodles, but with no patience for subtlety, in a room too busy to make good cooking relevant a priority. Decent weekend brunches. Several locations. $$

BURGOO
The excellent, gut-sticking stews and flavourful soups of West Point Grey’s Burgoo came to lower Lonsdale (and there was much rejoicing). Scan the wide-ranging menu of comfort foods from the wine-heavy beef bourguignon, redolent of button mushrooms and pearl onions poured over a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes, to the evenly spiced jerk chicken with sweet peppers on brown rice. This is studious fare that goes hand in hand with your all-night pre-exam cram or while researching a thesis on The Louisiana Purchase. It’s a bargain, too: nary a plate exceeds the $15 mark. 4434 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-221-7839; 3 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-904-0933. $$

CACTUS CLUB CAFE
The Cactus Club continues to stay ahead of the pack with its grown-up dining rooms (the Park Royal and Yaletown locations in particular are standouts) and quality menu items. Think juicy, two-fister burgers, slow-roasted Jack Daniels ribs or fiery portobello fajitas and perfectly dressed salads. And if fish tacos—decked out with smoky chipotle and tropical salsa—appear on the specials menu, order them. The tuna poke and won ton soup are both welcome additions. 357 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-685-8070; and 15 other locations. $$

CAFE CREPE

These busy little locations offer Parisian-style crêpes, hot dogs and baguette sandwiches fast and fresh. Hungry shoppers and on-the-fly moviegoers dig into variety of hot savoury crêpes like the spinach and feta ($7) or the Europa ham and Swiss ($6.25). Or satisfy a sweet tooth with Café Crêpe’s specialty, a warm crêpe stuffed with Nutella, Grand Marnier and banana ($8.95). Now with a new location at UBC. 1032 Robson St., Downtown, 604.488.0045; 874 Granville St., Downtown, 604-806-0845; 2861 Granville St., South Granville, 604-488-1326; 796 Granville St., Downtown, 604-806-0834; 5960 University Blvd., UBC, 604-221-1142. $-$$

CAFE SI'IL VOUS PLAIT
This shoebox-sized room on Robson Street has the kitschy charm of a ’50s diner dishing out comfort food to budget-conscious downtowners. Owner Raymond Kim’s kitchen churns out home-cooked classics for the budget conscious like macaroni and cheese ($8), peanut butter and banana sandwiches ($4.90), and a very tasty vegetarian chili ($8). Try the daily made-from-scratch soups like split pea, mushroom barley or borscht, all served with greens and hot buttered cornbread for just $6.75. 500 Robson St., Downtown, 604-688-7216. $

CAFE ZEN
Pages and pages of brunch items on this menu include every imaginable medley of omelet and Benedict (except Arnold), plus many vegetarian options. The food is of the lowbrow diner variety—the Lycra-clad Kits crowd comes here to dish on last night’s revelry rather than to revel in the dishes. Zen is a longtime neighbourhood favourite—expect long lineups on weekends, but know that service is speedy. 1631 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-731-4018. $

CAFFE BARNEY
Be prepared to line up for weekend brunch; the portions are worth it. The room is funky, worn and at times noisy, the food straight ahead and well prepared: burgers, soups, chicken Caesar salads and such. The prices, the music and the vibe appeal to a hip young clientele. Good draft beer and quality coffees. 2975 Granville St., South Granville, 604-731-6446. $-$$

CENTRAL KITCHEN AND EUROBAR
Though the food hits and misses, the lack of pretension and the fun, queer-friendly atmosphere keeps Central full, especially in the summer months when the shady patio affords shelter from a garish interior design. We recommend the lamborghini, a lamb burger with gorgonzola and caramelized onions ($17). The wine list is a punch line shy of a bad joke, but the cocktails (best had at the chatty bar) are worthy of a thousand lips. 1072 Denman St., West End, 604-689-4527. $$-$$$

CHILL WINSTON
Chef John Jesten is doing a bang-up job with lunch, dinner and late-night snacks such as golden beet carpaccio with scallop ceviche ($7), caribou carpaccio ($16) and Alaskan scallops ($12). For lunch try roast beef, grilled vegetable or brisket sandwiches ($7.50) or share-plates such as crab cakes ($12) and vegetable tempura ($8). For the drinking crowd there are plenty of original cocktails, lots of beer, a good selection of wines by the glass as well as a reserve list. Open late. 3 Alexander St., Gastown, 604-288-9575. $$

DEUCE
Visiting this second effort from the folks that brought you Capones feels a little like dating the Homecoming Queen’s sister—some similarities, but ultimately not as satisfying. They’ve got a terrific concept (small plates suitable for sharing) and modern décor, but the menu is hit and miss. Skip the crab fritters (a heavy mess even before they are slathered in a thick fontina and farmhouse cheddar sauce that obscures the delicate Dungeness crab) and go for the bottle rockets—spicy prawn pouches on a stick with gingered honey and lime ($10). Diverse cocktail list features some intriguing selections, the manliest of which is a sturdy bourbon based concoction with an unfortunate name—the Southern Belle, $9—that may prevent guys from actually ordering it. With a few tweaks this is a room we will grow to love. 1617 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver, 604-988-8180. $$

DOCKERS FAMILY RESTAURANT
Mammoth portions at miniscule prices have made this engaging greasy spoon a local favourite since 2004 (Dockers as we know it has been open since 2004, the restaurant space has been there since 1959). Heaping helpings of breakfast are served all day, with a rotating special that is rarely over five bucks, and folks flock from all over for their signature submarine sandwiches. You’ll need both hands for the special sub, loaded with grilled ribeye, fried onions and mozzarella (6” $5.50; 12” $9.25). Owner Nick maintains a steady stream of patter while keeping the coffee cups full for his colourful cast of endearing regulars that include city workers, local families and commuting suburbanites. Throw in a sassy waitress named Flo, and you’ve got yourself a sitcom. 6094 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-327-6713. $

DOUX CREPES
Eating crêpes daily surely has some curative powers, for how to explain the explosion of thin little pancake joints in our Pacific Rim metropolis? The latest contestant to throw their toque into la ring is Doux Crêpes, shaking up the traditional crêpe doctrine with fusion cuisine. The result: offerings that span the globe from Peking duck crêpe ($8.25) to Philly cheese steak ($6.75). Sacre Bleu! As for sweet, the union of peanut butter and condensed milk ($4.75) is as inspired as it is bizarre. Bottomless cups of strong Lavazza coffee wash down your French-Chinese-American fare. 1371 Richards St., Yaletown, 604 683-8890. $

EARLS PARAMOUNT

Our favourite place to watch Canucks action—maybe even better than GM Place. We’re singling out Earls Paramount from its many sibs for three reasons: the soaring room is a riot of stacked rock, flat screens, beer taps and choreographed service; the food, developed by celebrity chef Michael Noble, just tastes better here; and the celebrated wine list, selected by experts and not agents, is an inexpensive glory. Overheard: A wine buff saying he “couldn’t afford to drink anywhere else.” He can, and his ribs went down just fine with a Yalumba cab—just before he called a Yellow one. 905 Hornby St., Downtown, 604-682-6700, and various other locations, earls.ca. $$

THE ELBOW ROOM
Slinging hash and insults for over 20 years, this kitschy Davie Street diner is a must visit. Expect to be taunted mercilessly by sardonic servers for such grievous infractions as ordering incorrectly or not observing “The Rules,” featured prominently above the entrance (eg. Rule #1: Want more coffee? Then get it yourself or hire a butler!). Signature pancakes are available in either 6” or 12” sizes. Those unable to finish those whopping breakfasts will not only incur the server’s playful wrath, but will also be expected to make a charitable contribution to A Loving Spoonful. 560 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-685-3628. $

ENIGMA
Appetizers range from nachos and chicken wings to mussels with chorizo ($12.50); burgers include a salmon with lemon aioli ($11.50) and beef with chipotle aïoli ($10). More serious mains number lamb, chicken or vegetable curry ($14.75), a selection of pastas, and fresh salads—the seven-herb chicken salad or the Thai spinach salad are loaded with veggies and make a great lunch or dinner (both $15). Save room for the delightful sticky toffee pudding ($8). Great brunch spot with a similarly large menu. 4397 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-222-6881. $$

FALCONETTI'S
Don’t mention the words smokie or hot dog in this bar-eatery. Instead, only homemade sausages are slid onto a specially curved bun with a variety of sauces, and topped off with sautéed onions and peppers. Try the sweet Italian with a hint of fennel, or spicy Cajun chorizo. Vegetarians aren’t forgotten here: the veggie sausage is the best in town. 1812 Commercial Dr., 604-251-7287. $-$$

THE FIVE POINT
As Main Street’s grime gets polished to a shine, it’s comforting to know there are still a few slightly sullied watering holes. Like any good neighbourhood pub, the Five Point is a melting pot—you’re guaranteed to find hipsters, jocks, and old-time drunks imbibing collegially any night of the week. Really big burgers, and amazingly delicious blackened ahi tuna bites with pickled ginger and wasabi mayo. Excellent value for all, and the large patio is made for people watching. 3124 Main St., South Main, 604-876-5810. $$

FOUNDATION
The green room at the corner of 7th and Main is home away from home for practising vegetarians and off-duty carnivores. Innovative presentation on oversize plates; attempt the “mango fort” of pasta in coconut-mango sauce or satay salad of braised tofu and warm peanut sauce with quinoa sprinkled along the plate rim. Serious contenders for best nachos in the city. The interior is a cross-section of ’50s tables and chairs and a kitchen that looks like a well-outfitted loggers camp. 2301 Main St., South Main, 604-708-0881. $

THE GALLEY AT JERICHO SAILING CENTRE
A short walk west along the beach from the Royal Vancouver Yacht Club—but infinitely more affordable and less exclusive—is the Jericho Sailing Centre and its nifty patio/eatery, The Galley. Whether the salt on your brow is from ocean spray, disc sports or desk toil, everyone lays equal claim to a front-row seat for the glorious 180-plus-degree view of downtown and the North Shore. Order up good, honest clubhouse food with a fresh version of the “beer and burger” standard; The Galley Patio Lager is made just for them by R&B Brewing Co. and their premier burger is certified Angus beef ($8.69). Exhale. 1300 Discovery St., West Point Grey, 604-222-1331. $-$$

THE GALLERY CAFE AT THE VANCOUVER ART GALLERY
Like the gift shop below, the second-floor Gallery Café can be visited without having to pay admission to see art. The Café terrace is a favoured lunchtime getaway for area office workers and law court denizens. Don’t be put off by the cafeteria trays: there are no curly fries and chicken fingers; the menu is, instead, a more refined mix of panini and salad, soup and quiche. You can’t go wrong with the caprese panino (bocconcini with roma tomatoes, roasted peppers and sundried tomato oil, $7.95) or rare ahi tuna salad bowl ($9.25). Grab a Granville Island beer or a glass of Mission Hill wine and eavesdrop on VAG staffers on their break. 750 Hornby St., Downtown, 604-688-2233. $-$$

HELL'S KITCHEN
This Kits favourite, popular with the kids, is an unpretentious late-night hangout that will bring you back the next morning for brunch. Pizza is a specialty—create your own or do a “green monster” with spinach, tomato, pine nuts and garlic ($17.95). Lots of appies are worth sharing—try Hell’s Poutine ($9.95), tuna sashimi ($10.95) or yam fries ($5.95). Entrées range from Hell’s Kitchen curry ($10.95 for vegetarian, $14.95 for chicken and prawns ) to rum and coke ribs ($21.95) and if the cocktails got the best of you, refuel the next day with a variety of eggs Benny. 2041 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-4355. $$

HENNESSY DINING LOUNGE
Close-knit tables give the room energy; live music and solid DJs keep the young crowd pumped. Enjoy a cheeky cocktail—like the “Mother Pucker,” a mix of raspberry vodka, southern comfort, peach schnapps and lager ($7.95)—with a selection (or two) from the small plates menu. The skewered prawns with wonton crisps and sweet chili Asian slaw ($9) and the well-executed basil pesto gnocchi ($12) won’t disappoint. 53 W. Broadway, South Main, 604-875-9006. $$

HENRY'S KITCHEN
A new location, sandwiched between a bank and a laser dental clinic, still rewards the intrepid diner with honest-to-goodness, and budget conscious, French and Italian standards. Henry makes everything from scratch; creative daily specials showcase fresh seasonal seafood, and the extensive menu ranges from beef striploin with bone marrow shallot reduction ($22.95) to a slow-braised lamb osso buco with wild mushroom risotto ($19.95). Grilled calamari steak with mango papaya salsa and crisp papadam ($11.95) is a winner. Finish with Henry’s irresistible cheesecake with brandied blueberries ($5.95). 904 W. King Edward Ave., South Cambie, 604-738-9883. $$

HOMER CAFE
Plastic bonsai trees and Nabob coffee cups contribute to the truly retro charm of Homer Café, where you’ll find one of the best Denver omelette sandwiches in the city along with a great clubhouse. There’s also the usual glow-in-the-dark sweet‘n’sour pork and chow mein festivities, but stick to old-school classics like hamburger steak with onion and white bread, or the cheap breakfasts. Everything priced between $3.50 and $6.95 and the menu board boasts the slogan “Best Food in Town.” 892 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-687-2228. $

JOEYS BROADWAY
Jeff Fuller’s burgeoning chainlet just got bigger with this opening on West Broadway; the rooftop patio instantly became a mixer of skinny jeans and Aldo slingbacks. The menu promotes “evil jungle” noodle salad, chicken souvlaki, ahi tuna clubs, steaks, and ribs. Executive chef Chris Mills has played the Casual Fine Dining card cleverly, letting the kids have fun, and without getting too fussed. 1424 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-732-5639. $$-$$$

KARV
Housed in the troubled Kits space at Yew and 1st (formerly Adesso Bistro, Saltimbocca, and Yew First), KaRV is the brainchild of a young threesome of laid-back surfer-types who dress the part—and the party. Newly constructed bar and a handful of hockey-ready flat screens set up a neighbourhood hangout, and so what if the upbeat, hip-hop soundtrack wards off Harperites. Menu a roll out of basics on the cheap: try fish tacos of spice-rubbed tilapia with chipotle cream and citrus slaw. In summer, the wraparound patio boasts swell sightlines by day (droves of lithe, sand-bound lookers en route to Kits Beach)—evenings are improved by six cold brews on tap. 2201 W. 1st Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-0900. $$

THE KEG
David Aisenstat, aka The King of Steaks (he also owns the upmarket Hy’s chain and Gotham) bought The Keg chain 10 years ago, and now his outlets stretch from Victoria to Toronto and south all the way to Dallas. The Keg is his prêt à manger line: along with more conventional steakhouse victims you’ll find well-made shrimp cocktails, crab and lobster cakes, ribs, Szechwan green beans and chicken fajitas. Most are here for the beef: 28-day aged Canada AAA steaks and prime rib. A thick slab of the latter was one of the best we ate last year. Our server was fast, funny and informed, much better, we decided, than the obsequious brat who’d served us the night before in an expensive downtown tratt. We enjoyed ourselves, more than we might have thought. 1499 Anderson St., South Granville, 604-685-4735, and various other locations. $$-$$$

KINGSTON TAPHOUSE & GRILL
Double-tier patio is downtown oasis, complete with water feature to block traffic; top tier with full bar is popular with the after-work crowd. Cocktail culture: Caipririnha made with Cachaca rum. Greatest hits: Ahi tuna Caesar—lightly seared and silky tender, although it makes for soggy lettuce. Go for the appies: well-spiced firecracker shrimp served sizzling at your table, crispy herbed calamari, decent burgers and basketball hoops of onion rings are guy things, great for game watching, both TV and two tables over. 755 Richards St., Downtown, 604-681-7011. $$

LIBBY'S KITCHEN
A recent change in ownership hasn’t affected this homey little café one iota. From the charming antique stove in the entranceway, to the local artwork that hangs from saffron-coloured walls it’s all warm. Big and cheerful patio hosts a munch of grilled panini with spicy capicollo, caramelized onion and sweet pepper mayo ($6.95); all-day breakfasts, and a daily soup and sandwich special for $5.95. A free WiFi connection that’s as strong as the fair trade coffee lets you surf the net, with the help of those delicious triple chocolate brownies, of course. 3429 Porter St., Kingsway, 604-874-5547. $-$$

LOCUS CAFE
With a clientele that’s as eclectic as the decor, this hip Main Street eatery is not afraid to blaze its own path. The open kitchen pounds out adventurous menu items like elk burgers ($11.50) and bison short ribs ($19.50) that co-mingle with abundant vegetarian selections. Strong coffee (every cup’s an Americano) and generous portions make this a popular brunch spot. At night the cavernous room, with its large bar, deep wooden booths, dark burgundy walls and loud music, transforms into a voyeuristic pleasuredome. Open late. 4121 Main St., South Main, 604-708-4121. $-$$

THE MAJESTIC
New Davie gauntlet restaurant/lounge bills as gay- and straight-friendly. Stop in for the Friday evening or Sunday brunch drag queen cabarets; kitchen can also perform with tender calamari steak ($9.50) or light and crispy spring rolls ($7.50). The juicy burgers ($8.50) satisfy; the Thai curried seafood bowl ($21) is cleanly wrought. Staff is friendly; house music techno and funky; all-in-all a fun spot. 1138 Davie St., West End, 604-669-2013. $$

MASA'S A LA CARTE
This West Fourth eatery shares its name with the sushi temple in New York known for its $500-a-plate meals. In contrast, Vancouver’s Masa al la Carte’s has a hodge podge menu which features both quesadillas ($6.25) and gomaae ($3.95) (ah, the sublime confluence of Mexican and Japanese cuisines). And while we won’t opine on which establishment would win a head to head sashimi contest, we do know that you could likely eat here for a month for the cost of one visit to the New York version and there is a refreshing lack of pretense and a friendly staff in the Van version. 3689 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-3689. $-$$

MODERNE BURGER
“Best burger in town”—it’s a claim trumpeted by every pub, greasy spoon, and family restaurant in the city, not to mention the backyard barbecuer with a top secret family recipe. (Lemme guess, he puts cheese whiz in there, no wait, a half can of Bud Light?) They might be tasty, but they’re not the best; Moderne Burger is the best. They’ve got the B.C. burger brain trust working day and night optimizing juiciness, texture, and flavour. Burgers (steak, lamb, turkey, veggie, and salmon), fries and shakes are all they sell and business is good—they’re about to complete an expansion of their slick ’50s-syle Kitsilano space. 2507 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-0005. $

MILESTONE'S
Perky servers, apparently cloned from the same master cell, espouse the virtues of the famous spinach and artichoke dip with blind devotion. Slow roasted AAA prime rib ($20.99) with savoury bread pudding is usually a safe bet, and the red jewel coconut prawns ($18.99) with sweet pepper and red curry will have you signalling for another pint of their custom brewed Palomino pale ale. Burgers, fusion fare and cutesy share plates round out a menu that also bangs out a pretty solid brunch on weekends. Wine list needs a serious overhaul. Various locations. $$

MOONPENNIES
This café opens up early for the business crowd, where busy commuters grab bagels, scones and muffins or pause for a frittata or omelette served sandwich-style ($6.95) along with a coffee or juice to start the day. Lunch could be a selection of fresh baguettes such as roast beef, brie or smoked salmon ($4.75-$7.47) or a quiche, potpie or pasta. Offices order up platters of fresh fruit, mini-omelettes and baguette party trays to keep their workers fuelled through breakfast or lunch meetings. 1102 W. Pender St., Downtown, 604-669-6092. $$

MOXIE'S
When you’re dealing with an indecisive group, Moxie’s is an okay bet. The wide-ranging menu, lengthier than any of its casual chain competitors, has everything from clubhouse sandwiches ($9.99) and chicken wings ($9.99) to cookie-cutter fusion like Szechwan green beans ($7.99) and Tandoori chicken pizza ($12.99). The location near GM Place is popular for pre-game nosh, while the patio on Denman is prime real estate for people watching. Now with 51 locations across Western Canada. 1759 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-678-9973; 1160 Davie St., West End, 604-678-8043; 808 Bute St., West End, 604-696-9986; 180 W. Georgia St. Downtown, 604-684-8434. $$-$$$

9TH AVENUE GRILL
For all the Vancouverites who claim to skip breakfast, there’s a preponderance of all-day egg-’n’-bacon joints in town. This family-run operation, on the border of Kits and South Granville, has a faithful following who are willing to shell out a little extra for homemade, high-quality ingredients. While there’s a somewhat-passé emphasis on low-carb options (like an English-muffinless Benny: why bother?), you can’t go wrong with the 9th Avenue Omelette Special (bacon, sausage, zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, green onions, diced tomatoes and feta), and the locally roasted coffee always clears the Sunday fog. 1822 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-714-0744. $

PAUL'S PLACE OMELETTERY
This worn-around-the-edges neighbourhood spot does brisk business specializing in the most important meal of the day. Their signature omelettes are paper thin, stuffed with a variety of inventive goodies (order from the menu or create your own) and the coffee is strong and plentiful. All of the generous breakfast fare is under $10—except the Lumberjack, which is served via forklift—and lunch brings a solid selection of soups, burgers and sandwiches. Breakfast is served all day and Paul’s is fully licensed, just in case your morning meal requires a little hair of the dog. Expect daily specials, friendly service, and long lineups on the weekend. 2211 Granville St., South Granville, 604-737-2857. $$

PHAT
Getting a good, cheap lunch can be a tall order in Yaletown. Not so at Phat, a rather unorthodox Jewish deli right in the belly of the bling beast that’ll serve you a gin martini to pair with your all-beef kosher smokie and a cold beer to loosen the lox. Ideal for a mid-shop pit stop when conserving funds for faux Fendi. Counter service is remarkably swift, especially when hard-working owner William Kaminski mans the till. Plenty of sandwiches and several different bagel combinations can be had, and the patio is arguably one of the least expensive people-watching digs in the city. Still, the Montréal smoked meat is the main draw; it’s arguably the best this side of the Great Lakes. 1055 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-684-6239. $

PICNIC
This Peter Cardew-designed eatery—an adjunct to South Granville-staple Meinhardt Fine Foods—draws as much attention for its sleek Scandinavian looks as it does the food. New additions to the room, dominated by an oversized mirror and central table, are four pairs of smart leather tub chairs—for those, presumably, who don’t like eating communally. Speaking of the food—well, it’s from Meinhardt, so only the poshest luncheon grub. The selection changes daily, but we enjoyed the salmon salad sandwich on a recent visit. And the deadly Meinhardt brownies seem to keep reappearing—and promptly disappearing. 3001 Granville St., South Granville, 604-732-4405. $-$$

RELISH
The favoured watering hole/eatery of the Law Courts crowd, Relish celebrated three years in business this past August—and is evidently doing a good job with non-legal eagles, too, as the sleek modernist room fills up on evenings and weekends to an extent its predecessor, Urban Well, never did. Credit the try-hard kitchen and drinks card. Wine-drinking and light-noshing are the preferred way to go—Relish won an honourable mention for its wine list at the 2006 Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival. Recommended mains include the lamb chops (with honey lime couscous and cucumber yogurt) and the lobster ravioli. The lounge is now open until 2 a.m. 888 Nelson St., Downtown, 604-669-1962. $$-$$$

RUGBY BEACH CLUB GRILLE
Cheap eats and drinks in a room that buzzes long and late. The deceptively large space houses an indoor patio, intimate booths and a lively lounge where $3 martinis and cleansing ales flow fast. Killer value from the grille ($10.95 for an eight-ounce sirloin) and mix-and-match sides make every meal an adventure, some more enjoyable than others. Service can be hit and miss so belly up to the bar instead for a proper Black & Tan for less than you’ll pay for a medium-sized latte. Short but surprisingly good wine list holds a few gems and weekend brunch is a gong show: brekkie starts at $2.95. 950 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-736-2438. $$

SALT TASTING ROOM
Sean Heather’s empire is spreading across Gastown: the Irish Heather, Shebeen, Salty Tongue and now this—a wine bar and charcuterie house down a cobbled gauntlet that breathes just a slight frisson of danger. Find GM Kurtis Kolt dispensing wine, sage advice, beautifully cut, locally sourced salami, international and local cheeses and cured meats from Oyama, J N & Z, and Moccia’s (there’s no kitchen). Condiments source fruits of the Okanagan. The room can grow loud later, but it’s a good loud—the mood is festive and as light as the simple menu, stencilled on the far blackboard, and on a custom menu, handwritten just for you. Blood Alley (enter off Abbott or Carrall St.), Gastown, 604-633-1912. $-$$

SEAWALL BAR & GRILL
Sitting on the south shore of Coal Harbour next to the main entrance to Stanley Park, this laid-back indoor/outdoor nautical bar isn’t just for tourists. Although there’s enough scenery inside, the real action (in the summer) is outside on the deck, where the view spans the harbour and the North Shore. The after-work crowd and hotel guests commune at patio tables and enjoy specialty drinks such as the Seawall Sunset (vodka, cranberry and triple sec), then motor through a bucket of peel-and-eat prawns ($20) or a pound of spicy chicken wings ($12). The juicy sirloin burger offers even more incentive to stay past midnight. 1601 Bayshore Dr., Coal Harbour, 604-682-3377. $$

SEB'S MARKET CAFE
Owner François Godbout left a busy movie-catering business to make this charming Mount Pleasant café his primary obsession. An ever-changing menu is full of unpretentious and delicious bistro fare: baked camembert with candied maple garlic jam and fruit preserves ($6), seared scallops with orange ginger glaze ($7), and a Moroccan-spiced lamb shank with apricot and Burgundy jus ($14) are full-flavoured. The casual and friendly room features live jazz on the weekends, and Godbout’s brunch service fills up so quickly that regulars wake up early on Sundays to secure their spot. 592 E. Broadway, South Main, 604-298-4403. $-$$

SHASHUKA
Go for the gelato, stay for the art. This bright little room showcases an array of local artwork in various mediums and 32 rotating flavours of house-made gelatos. Chef Alfred Fan’s (ex-Wild Garlic) varied menu is certainly more accessible than some of the objets d’art. Breakfast specialty is the Shakshuka ($7.50): two eggs with roma tomato, green pepper and cheese. Great coffee, fresh smoothies and over 20 different salads (try a combination of four for $10)—an interesting concept in a location that may prove challenging. 6555 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-677-8204. $$

SLICKETY JIM'S CHAT 'N' CHEW
This offbeat café on Main Street has gained a loyal following with generous portions of quality comfort food, eccentric personalities and kitschy garage sale decor. The menu reads like it was written by an acid-tripping English major. “If Stalin Had a Rubber Ducky” ($8.75) is a belly filling crowd pleaser of a grilled salmon tomatillo Benny and two eggs scrambled with cheddar cheese and black forest ham on an English muffin (a.k.a. the McDecimation of Cultural Diversity at $7.75) is as interesting as its moniker. Beware of long waits at peak hours. 2513 Main St., South Main, 604-873-6760. $-$$

STEAMWORKS BREWING CO.
There are two locations, but the expansive Gastown spot is the original and the more popular. It’s the one where beer drinkers are afforded the rare pleasure of downing a few pale ales in the building where they were actually brewed. Recognizing the need for variety to accommodate walk-in tourists and cruise ship crowds, they maintain a huge menu, with everything from a ginger beef starter ($10.99) to a seafood crêpe entrée ($17.99). The blue cheese burger ($10.49), however, is a standout. 375 Water St., Gastown, 604-689-2739; 900 Main St., West Van, 604-922-8882. $$

STELLA'S TAP AND TAPAS BAR
From the ashes of former Drive fixture Santos arises Stella’s, by starlight pouring a cavalcade of local and Belgian beers in a concrete and blond-wooded room. A cornet of frites (with the aïoli of the day) pairs well; accompany with P.E.I. moules eight ways: the Granny Smith apple, Calvados, bacon and mushroom cream version is outstanding. A 50-seat patio is prime real estate to wrestle back a flat-iron steak sandwich, Creole mustard and horseradish crème fraiche. The small plates menu (range $6-12) and service stars shine brightly at night. Patio open and heated year-round. 1191 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2437. $$

SUBEEZ
Industrial style decor is softened by the legacy of years of dripping candles. Subeez is a popular after-work drinks spot where local techies share plates of organic nachos ($13), calamari ($9.50), and garlic-mayo fries ($7). Breakfast is served all day—try a mushroom and herb frittata, $9. The lunch crowd enjoys chicken and brie baguettes served with salad and fries ($13), sirloin, bacon, mushroom and cheese burgers ($13) and a selection of salads. All reasonably good, but the kitchen needs to find focus in order to be considered a serious dining establishment. 891 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-687-6107. $$

THE TEMPLETON
It might appear to be a greasy spoon diner on an unsavoury block of Granville flanked by sex shops, but it’s decidedly of the 21st century. Organic free-range chicken burgers (9.50), free-run eggs, hawkeye salmon omelette ($10), and preservative-free bacon are enjoyed to juke tunes and the smell of organic coffee always on the trot. In the evenings, regulars bump in for the classic movies projected on the wall, as well as for the free wireless internet. Proprietors Jessica Kaman (ex-biologist for the U.S. government) and Ricardo Farinha (ex-adventure tour guide) are omnipresent, leading a staff as casually dressed as their customers. 1087 Granville St., Downtown, 604-685-4612. $

VERA'S BURGER SHACK
Now with eight locations and growing fast, Vera’s has been collecting awards and accolades for its burgers since opening on West Van’s Dundarave Pier in 1977. But with franchises popping up everywhere, Frank and Vera can’t inspect every burger that comes off the grill. Sadly, despite big, fresh, high-quality patties and unparalleled fixin’ options, there’s growing fast-foodiness to these places. Two very un-fast-food-like features, though, are liquor licenses and prices one might expect to pay for a pub burger. Multiple locations. $

THE WHIP
Two parts urban loft, one part English pub, cheery service and a gallery of rotating local artwork make a potent potable called The Whip. Under new ownership, this local watering hole has kicked it up a notch, offering a menu as eclectic as their growing clientele. Great brews on tap, a small but carefully chosen wine list and sangrias named after the four Cardinal virtues (is it wrong to order a second jug of Prudence?) make this a great spot to quench your thirst. Weekends boast booming brunch business and Cask Ale Sundays draw a crowd. 209 6th Ave., South Main, 604-874-4687. $-$$

WING NUTS

This Main Street hole in the wall, brought to you by the Burgoo crew, is dedicated to all things wings (12 for $8.69). Over 15 varieties of house-made sauces and dips range from tepid to five-alarm fire, but rest assured there’s plenty of ice-cold brew on hand to douse the flames. Daily specials round out a menu where you’ll also find a mean poutine ($6.79) and a generous steak and cheese sandwich ($8.49). Good news for those shut out on busy game nights: they’re in process of doubling seating capacity. Check out the Wall of Flame, a photomontage of satisfied customers beaming through red stained lips. Delivery available daily after 4:00 p.m. 4444 Main St., South Main, 604-874-9874. $-$$

YAGGER'S DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT & BAR
Hipster version of Cheers with one exception—adventurous menu focussing on homey food for a grown-up palate. Not what you’d expect to find in this neighbourhood. But these guys (ex-Wild Rice) are happy to see you. Sidle up to the bar and order a Jagermeister (what else?) to get whet for big plates, many less than 10 bucks. Scarf down one of the best burgers in town, 75 percent beef with 25 percent pork to give it just enough moistness, perched on a Mix Bakery bun with chipotle. Mounds of creamy macaroni and cheese is packed with white cheddar and gorgonzola. Extensive martini list both fun and serious. Private back room, although a bit rough around the skirting board, completes look with big screen. Decent little wine list. 433 W. Pender St., Downtown, 604-602-7030. $$

YALETOWN BREWING COMPANY

One of the first restaurants to open in our warehouse-cum-trend fretting neighbourhood, this brew pub/sports bar keeps things casual in an otherwise ostentatious scene. Pro-forma pub fare (sure-fire hits include the barbecue chicken or the “Best Vegetarian Pizza Ever!”and the beer-battered halibut and chips) pairs well with the lagers and ales brewed onsite. The large wrap-around patio hugs the corner of Mainland and Helmcken—it’s a prime spot for looking at people you’ll never see again. A new second storey floor is being added. 1111 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-681-2739. $$$

YEW YORK
Years ago a gypsy woman cursed the corner of Yew and York in Kitsilano vowing that on that land no business shall grow. How else to rationalize the fact that no restaurant can survive in this seemingly great location? Yew York is the latest challenger to seek to make right this maligned real estate and their recipe appears simple—throw everything but the kitchen sink on the menu and surely something will catch. The menu features dry ribs ($9), chicken wings ($9), and phyllo-wrapped prawns stuffed with cream cheese and roasted garlic ($12.50). Stick with the pints and their logical accompaniments, such as the garlic frites ($7), and you’ll be happy. 1602 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-730-8870. $$

 

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