Informal
APHRODITE'S ORGANIC CAFE
One of the few spots that can legitimately bill itself
as all organic, all the time—many items are straight
from a Glen Valley farm that morning. Every item is
in season, from home-baked breads to soup. The chicken
is from Thomas Reid and the water is from the farm well.
Vegetables are unfiddled; handmade spelt-flour pizza
carries a tumble of wild mushrooms and organic sheep’s
milk feta from McClellan Farms. Pick up one of chef’s
fruit pies next door. Watch for changes here: they’ll
soon be expanding their kitchen. 3598 W. 4th Ave.,
Kitsilano, 604-738-5879. $$
BELGIAN FRIES
With nine styles of poutine and 12 types of mayo for
dipping, the Belgian frites here may have their French
counterparts beat. While burgers (beef, $7.94; salmon,
$8.47) are now available as “sides” to your
generous portion of fries, consider saving those calories
for the deep-fried Mars bar topped with whipped cream
and drizzled with raspberry sauce ($3.50). Everything
is made in-house and service is quick and cheerful.
Sit in or take out, but bring cash. 1885 Commercial
Dr., 604-253-4220. $
BON'S OFF BROADWAY
This East Van institution—with its battered booths,
frayed carpets and poster-plastered yellow walls—is
always full, serving its famous all-day breakfast for
less than you’ll find in your couch cushions.
Just $3.95 gets you bottomless coffee, a heaping helping
of eggs, sausage, hash browns and toast, plus a front-row
seat to serious people watching—from Bon’s
motley crew of servers scurrying to handle the overflow
to bleary-eyed patrons attempting to eat themselves
out of a hangover. 2451 Nanaimo St., Commercial
Drive, 604-253-7242. $
BROWNS SOCIAL HOUSE
After a rebrand and an expansion from two locations
to four (now in Kits, West Van, North Van, and Yaletown),
we hope the owners/franchisees of Browns might pause
for breath and regroup before mushrooming any further.
Each location is Old Navy slick: pretty and toned, to
be sure, but with a relevance shelf life that can be
measured in months rather than years. The kitchen sink
menu, which reads like it was focus-grouped by stoned
teenagers, slakes the beer thirsts of its target market
(try getting a seat on a weekend evening). Thanks to
bad/good lathers of sauce and a liberal interpretation
of seasoning, just about everything is tasty from overdressed
salads to clumsily spiced noodles, but with no patience
for subtlety, in a room too busy to make good cooking
relevant a priority. Decent weekend brunches. Several
locations. $$
BURGOO
The excellent, gut-sticking stews and flavourful soups
of West Point Grey’s Burgoo came to lower Lonsdale
(and there was much rejoicing). Scan the wide-ranging
menu of comfort foods from the wine-heavy beef bourguignon,
redolent of button mushrooms and pearl onions poured
over a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes, to the evenly
spiced jerk chicken with sweet peppers on brown rice.
This is studious fare that goes hand in hand with your
all-night pre-exam cram or while researching a thesis
on The Louisiana Purchase. It’s a bargain, too:
nary a plate exceeds the $15 mark. 4434 W. 10th
Ave., West Point Grey, 604-221-7839; 3 Lonsdale Ave.,
North Van, 604-904-0933. $$
CACTUS CLUB CAFE
The Cactus Club continues to stay ahead of the pack
with its grown-up dining rooms (the Park Royal and Yaletown
locations in particular are standouts) and quality menu
items. Think juicy, two-fister burgers, slow-roasted
Jack Daniels ribs or fiery portobello fajitas and perfectly
dressed salads. And if fish tacos—decked out with
smoky chipotle and tropical salsa—appear on the
specials menu, order them. The tuna poke and won ton
soup are both welcome additions. 357 Davie St.,
Yaletown, 604-685-8070; and 15 other locations. $$
CAFE CREPE
These busy little locations offer Parisian-style crêpes,
hot dogs and baguette sandwiches fast and fresh. Hungry
shoppers and on-the-fly moviegoers dig into variety
of hot savoury crêpes like the spinach and feta
($7) or the Europa ham and Swiss ($6.25). Or satisfy
a sweet tooth with Café Crêpe’s specialty,
a warm crêpe stuffed with Nutella, Grand Marnier
and banana ($8.95). Now with a new location at UBC.
1032 Robson St., Downtown, 604.488.0045; 874 Granville
St., Downtown, 604-806-0845; 2861 Granville St., South
Granville, 604-488-1326; 796 Granville St., Downtown,
604-806-0834; 5960 University Blvd., UBC, 604-221-1142.
$-$$
CAFE SI'IL VOUS PLAIT
This shoebox-sized room on Robson Street has the kitschy
charm of a ’50s diner dishing out comfort food
to budget-conscious downtowners. Owner Raymond Kim’s
kitchen churns out home-cooked classics for the budget
conscious like macaroni and cheese ($8), peanut butter
and banana sandwiches ($4.90), and a very tasty vegetarian
chili ($8). Try the daily made-from-scratch soups like
split pea, mushroom barley or borscht, all served with
greens and hot buttered cornbread for just $6.75. 500
Robson St., Downtown, 604-688-7216. $
CAFE ZEN
Pages and pages of brunch items on this menu include
every imaginable medley of omelet and Benedict (except
Arnold), plus many vegetarian options. The food is of
the lowbrow diner variety—the Lycra-clad Kits
crowd comes here to dish on last night’s revelry
rather than to revel in the dishes. Zen is a longtime
neighbourhood favourite—expect long lineups on
weekends, but know that service is speedy. 1631
Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-731-4018. $
CAFFE BARNEY
Be prepared to line up for weekend brunch; the portions
are worth it. The room is funky, worn and at times noisy,
the food straight ahead and well prepared: burgers,
soups, chicken Caesar salads and such. The prices, the
music and the vibe appeal to a hip young clientele.
Good draft beer and quality coffees. 2975 Granville
St., South Granville, 604-731-6446. $-$$
CENTRAL KITCHEN AND EUROBAR
Though the food hits and misses, the lack of pretension
and the fun, queer-friendly atmosphere keeps Central
full, especially in the summer months when the shady
patio affords shelter from a garish interior design.
We recommend the lamborghini, a lamb burger with gorgonzola
and caramelized onions ($17). The wine list is a punch
line shy of a bad joke, but the cocktails (best had
at the chatty bar) are worthy of a thousand lips. 1072
Denman St., West End, 604-689-4527. $$-$$$
CHILL WINSTON
Chef John Jesten is doing a bang-up job with lunch,
dinner and late-night snacks such as golden beet carpaccio
with scallop ceviche ($7), caribou carpaccio ($16) and
Alaskan scallops ($12). For lunch try roast beef, grilled
vegetable or brisket sandwiches ($7.50) or share-plates
such as crab cakes ($12) and vegetable tempura ($8).
For the drinking crowd there are plenty of original
cocktails, lots of beer, a good selection of wines by
the glass as well as a reserve list. Open late. 3
Alexander St., Gastown, 604-288-9575. $$
DEUCE
Visiting this second effort from the folks that brought
you Capones feels a little like dating the Homecoming
Queen’s sister—some similarities, but ultimately
not as satisfying. They’ve got a terrific concept
(small plates suitable for sharing) and modern décor,
but the menu is hit and miss. Skip the crab fritters
(a heavy mess even before they are slathered in a thick
fontina and farmhouse cheddar sauce that obscures the
delicate Dungeness crab) and go for the bottle rockets—spicy
prawn pouches on a stick with gingered honey and lime
($10). Diverse cocktail list features some intriguing
selections, the manliest of which is a sturdy bourbon
based concoction with an unfortunate name—the
Southern Belle, $9—that may prevent guys from
actually ordering it. With a few tweaks this is a room
we will grow to love. 1617 Lonsdale Ave., North
Vancouver, 604-988-8180. $$
DOCKERS FAMILY RESTAURANT
Mammoth portions at miniscule prices have made this
engaging greasy spoon a local favourite since 2004 (Dockers
as we know it has been open since 2004, the restaurant
space has been there since 1959). Heaping helpings of
breakfast are served all day, with a rotating special
that is rarely over five bucks, and folks flock from
all over for their signature submarine sandwiches. You’ll
need both hands for the special sub, loaded with grilled
ribeye, fried onions and mozzarella (6” $5.50;
12” $9.25). Owner Nick maintains a steady stream
of patter while keeping the coffee cups full for his
colourful cast of endearing regulars that include city
workers, local families and commuting suburbanites.
Throw in a sassy waitress named Flo, and you’ve
got yourself a sitcom. 6094 Fraser St., South Vancouver,
604-327-6713. $
DOUX CREPES
Eating crêpes daily surely has some curative powers,
for how to explain the explosion of thin little pancake
joints in our Pacific Rim metropolis? The latest contestant
to throw their toque into la ring is Doux Crêpes,
shaking up the traditional crêpe doctrine with
fusion cuisine. The result: offerings that span the
globe from Peking duck crêpe ($8.25) to Philly
cheese steak ($6.75). Sacre Bleu! As for sweet, the
union of peanut butter and condensed milk ($4.75) is
as inspired as it is bizarre. Bottomless cups of strong
Lavazza coffee wash down your French-Chinese-American
fare. 1371 Richards St., Yaletown, 604 683-8890.
$
EARLS PARAMOUNT
Our favourite place to watch Canucks action—maybe
even better than GM Place. We’re singling out
Earls Paramount from its many sibs for three reasons:
the soaring room is a riot of stacked rock, flat screens,
beer taps and choreographed service; the food, developed
by celebrity chef Michael Noble, just tastes better
here; and the celebrated wine list, selected by experts
and not agents, is an inexpensive glory. Overheard:
A wine buff saying he “couldn’t afford to
drink anywhere else.” He can, and his ribs went
down just fine with a Yalumba cab—just before
he called a Yellow one. 905 Hornby St., Downtown,
604-682-6700, and various other locations, earls.ca.
$$
THE ELBOW ROOM
Slinging hash and insults for over 20 years, this kitschy
Davie Street diner is a must visit. Expect to be taunted
mercilessly by sardonic servers for such grievous infractions
as ordering incorrectly or not observing “The
Rules,” featured prominently above the entrance
(eg. Rule #1: Want more coffee? Then get it yourself
or hire a butler!). Signature pancakes are available
in either 6” or 12” sizes. Those unable
to finish those whopping breakfasts will not only incur
the server’s playful wrath, but will also be expected
to make a charitable contribution to A Loving Spoonful.
560 Davie St., Yaletown, 604-685-3628. $
ENIGMA
Appetizers range from nachos and chicken wings to mussels
with chorizo ($12.50); burgers include a salmon with
lemon aioli ($11.50) and beef with chipotle aïoli
($10). More serious mains number lamb, chicken or vegetable
curry ($14.75), a selection of pastas, and fresh salads—the
seven-herb chicken salad or the Thai spinach salad are
loaded with veggies and make a great lunch or dinner
(both $15). Save room for the delightful sticky toffee
pudding ($8). Great brunch spot with a similarly large
menu. 4397 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-222-6881.
$$
FALCONETTI'S
Don’t mention the words smokie or hot dog in this
bar-eatery. Instead, only homemade sausages are slid
onto a specially curved bun with a variety of sauces,
and topped off with sautéed onions and peppers.
Try the sweet Italian with a hint of fennel, or spicy
Cajun chorizo. Vegetarians aren’t forgotten here:
the veggie sausage is the best in town. 1812 Commercial
Dr., 604-251-7287. $-$$
THE FIVE POINT
As Main Street’s grime gets polished to a shine,
it’s comforting to know there are still a few
slightly sullied watering holes. Like any good neighbourhood
pub, the Five Point is a melting pot—you’re
guaranteed to find hipsters, jocks, and old-time drunks
imbibing collegially any night of the week. Really big
burgers, and amazingly delicious blackened ahi tuna
bites with pickled ginger and wasabi mayo. Excellent
value for all, and the large patio is made for people
watching. 3124 Main St., South Main, 604-876-5810.
$$
FOUNDATION
The green room at the corner of 7th and Main is home
away from home for practising vegetarians and off-duty
carnivores. Innovative presentation on oversize plates;
attempt the “mango fort” of pasta in coconut-mango
sauce or satay salad of braised tofu and warm peanut
sauce with quinoa sprinkled along the plate rim. Serious
contenders for best nachos in the city. The interior
is a cross-section of ’50s tables and chairs and
a kitchen that looks like a well-outfitted loggers camp.
2301 Main St., South Main, 604-708-0881. $
THE GALLEY AT JERICHO SAILING
CENTRE
A short walk west along the beach from the Royal Vancouver
Yacht Club—but infinitely more affordable and
less exclusive—is the Jericho Sailing Centre and
its nifty patio/eatery, The Galley. Whether the salt
on your brow is from ocean spray, disc sports or desk
toil, everyone lays equal claim to a front-row seat
for the glorious 180-plus-degree view of downtown and
the North Shore. Order up good, honest clubhouse food
with a fresh version of the “beer and burger”
standard; The Galley Patio Lager is made just for them
by R&B Brewing Co. and their premier burger is certified
Angus beef ($8.69). Exhale. 1300 Discovery St.,
West Point Grey, 604-222-1331. $-$$
THE GALLERY CAFE AT THE VANCOUVER
ART GALLERY
Like the gift shop below, the second-floor Gallery Café
can be visited without having to pay admission to see
art. The Café terrace is a favoured lunchtime
getaway for area office workers and law court denizens.
Don’t be put off by the cafeteria trays: there
are no curly fries and chicken fingers; the menu is,
instead, a more refined mix of panini and salad, soup
and quiche. You can’t go wrong with the caprese
panino (bocconcini with roma tomatoes, roasted peppers
and sundried tomato oil, $7.95) or rare ahi tuna salad
bowl ($9.25). Grab a Granville Island beer or a glass
of Mission Hill wine and eavesdrop on VAG staffers on
their break. 750 Hornby St., Downtown, 604-688-2233.
$-$$
HELL'S KITCHEN
This Kits favourite, popular with the kids, is an unpretentious
late-night hangout that will bring you back the next
morning for brunch. Pizza is a specialty—create
your own or do a “green monster” with spinach,
tomato, pine nuts and garlic ($17.95). Lots of appies
are worth sharing—try Hell’s Poutine ($9.95),
tuna sashimi ($10.95) or yam fries ($5.95). Entrées
range from Hell’s Kitchen curry ($10.95 for vegetarian,
$14.95 for chicken and prawns ) to rum and coke ribs
($21.95) and if the cocktails got the best of you, refuel
the next day with a variety of eggs Benny. 2041
W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-4355. $$
HENNESSY DINING LOUNGE
Close-knit tables give the room energy; live music and
solid DJs keep the young crowd pumped. Enjoy a cheeky
cocktail—like the “Mother Pucker,”
a mix of raspberry vodka, southern comfort, peach schnapps
and lager ($7.95)—with a selection (or two) from
the small plates menu. The skewered prawns with wonton
crisps and sweet chili Asian slaw ($9) and the well-executed
basil pesto gnocchi ($12) won’t disappoint. 53
W. Broadway, South Main, 604-875-9006. $$
HENRY'S KITCHEN
A new location, sandwiched between a bank and a laser
dental clinic, still rewards the intrepid diner with
honest-to-goodness, and budget conscious, French and
Italian standards. Henry makes everything from scratch;
creative daily specials showcase fresh seasonal seafood,
and the extensive menu ranges from beef striploin with
bone marrow shallot reduction ($22.95) to a slow-braised
lamb osso buco with wild mushroom risotto ($19.95).
Grilled calamari steak with mango papaya salsa and crisp
papadam ($11.95) is a winner. Finish with Henry’s
irresistible cheesecake with brandied blueberries ($5.95).
904 W. King Edward Ave., South Cambie, 604-738-9883.
$$
HOMER CAFE
Plastic bonsai trees and Nabob coffee cups contribute
to the truly retro charm of Homer Café, where
you’ll find one of the best Denver omelette sandwiches
in the city along with a great clubhouse. There’s
also the usual glow-in-the-dark sweet‘n’sour
pork and chow mein festivities, but stick to old-school
classics like hamburger steak with onion and white bread,
or the cheap breakfasts. Everything priced between $3.50
and $6.95 and the menu board boasts the slogan “Best
Food in Town.” 892 Homer St., Yaletown, 604-687-2228.
$
JOEYS BROADWAY
Jeff Fuller’s burgeoning chainlet just got bigger
with this opening on West Broadway; the rooftop patio
instantly became a mixer of skinny jeans and Aldo slingbacks.
The menu promotes “evil jungle” noodle salad,
chicken souvlaki, ahi tuna clubs, steaks, and ribs.
Executive chef Chris Mills has played the Casual Fine
Dining card cleverly, letting the kids have fun, and
without getting too fussed. 1424 W. Broadway, South
Granville, 604-732-5639. $$-$$$
KARV
Housed in the troubled Kits space at Yew and 1st (formerly
Adesso Bistro, Saltimbocca, and Yew First), KaRV is
the brainchild of a young threesome of laid-back surfer-types
who dress the part—and the party. Newly constructed
bar and a handful of hockey-ready flat screens set up
a neighbourhood hangout, and so what if the upbeat,
hip-hop soundtrack wards off Harperites. Menu a roll
out of basics on the cheap: try fish tacos of spice-rubbed
tilapia with chipotle cream and citrus slaw. In summer,
the wraparound patio boasts swell sightlines by day
(droves of lithe, sand-bound lookers en route to Kits
Beach)—evenings are improved by six cold brews
on tap. 2201 W. 1st Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-0900.
$$
THE KEG
David Aisenstat, aka The King of Steaks (he also owns
the upmarket Hy’s chain and Gotham) bought The
Keg chain 10 years ago, and now his outlets stretch
from Victoria to Toronto and south all the way to Dallas.
The Keg is his prêt à manger line: along
with more conventional steakhouse victims you’ll
find well-made shrimp cocktails, crab and lobster cakes,
ribs, Szechwan green beans and chicken fajitas. Most
are here for the beef: 28-day aged Canada AAA steaks
and prime rib. A thick slab of the latter was one of
the best we ate last year. Our server was fast, funny
and informed, much better, we decided, than the obsequious
brat who’d served us the night before in an expensive
downtown tratt. We enjoyed ourselves, more than we might
have thought. 1499 Anderson St., South Granville,
604-685-4735, and various other locations. $$-$$$
KINGSTON TAPHOUSE & GRILL
Double-tier patio is downtown oasis, complete with water
feature to block traffic; top tier with full bar is
popular with the after-work crowd. Cocktail culture:
Caipririnha made with Cachaca rum. Greatest hits: Ahi
tuna Caesar—lightly seared and silky tender, although
it makes for soggy lettuce. Go for the appies: well-spiced
firecracker shrimp served sizzling at your table, crispy
herbed calamari, decent burgers and basketball hoops
of onion rings are guy things, great for game watching,
both TV and two tables over. 755 Richards St., Downtown,
604-681-7011. $$
LIBBY'S KITCHEN
A recent change in ownership hasn’t affected this
homey little café one iota. From the charming
antique stove in the entranceway, to the local artwork
that hangs from saffron-coloured walls it’s all
warm. Big and cheerful patio hosts a munch of grilled
panini with spicy capicollo, caramelized onion and sweet
pepper mayo ($6.95); all-day breakfasts, and a daily
soup and sandwich special for $5.95. A free WiFi connection
that’s as strong as the fair trade coffee lets
you surf the net, with the help of those delicious triple
chocolate brownies, of course. 3429 Porter St.,
Kingsway, 604-874-5547. $-$$
LOCUS CAFE
With a clientele that’s as eclectic as the decor,
this hip Main Street eatery is not afraid to blaze its
own path. The open kitchen pounds out adventurous menu
items like elk burgers ($11.50) and bison short ribs
($19.50) that co-mingle with abundant vegetarian selections.
Strong coffee (every cup’s an Americano) and generous
portions make this a popular brunch spot. At night the
cavernous room, with its large bar, deep wooden booths,
dark burgundy walls and loud music, transforms into
a voyeuristic pleasuredome. Open late. 4121 Main
St., South Main, 604-708-4121. $-$$
THE MAJESTIC
New Davie gauntlet restaurant/lounge bills as gay- and
straight-friendly. Stop in for the Friday evening or
Sunday brunch drag queen cabarets; kitchen can also
perform with tender calamari steak ($9.50) or light
and crispy spring rolls ($7.50). The juicy burgers ($8.50)
satisfy; the Thai curried seafood bowl ($21) is cleanly
wrought. Staff is friendly; house music techno and funky;
all-in-all a fun spot. 1138 Davie St., West End,
604-669-2013. $$
MASA'S A LA CARTE
This West Fourth eatery shares its name with the sushi
temple in New York known for its $500-a-plate meals.
In contrast, Vancouver’s Masa al la Carte’s
has a hodge podge menu which features both quesadillas
($6.25) and gomaae ($3.95) (ah, the sublime confluence
of Mexican and Japanese cuisines). And while we won’t
opine on which establishment would win a head to head
sashimi contest, we do know that you could likely eat
here for a month for the cost of one visit to the New
York version and there is a refreshing lack of pretense
and a friendly staff in the Van version. 3689 W.
4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-3689. $-$$
MODERNE BURGER
“Best burger in town”—it’s a
claim trumpeted by every pub, greasy spoon, and family
restaurant in the city, not to mention the backyard
barbecuer with a top secret family recipe. (Lemme guess,
he puts cheese whiz in there, no wait, a half can of
Bud Light?) They might be tasty, but they’re not
the best; Moderne Burger is the best. They’ve
got the B.C. burger brain trust working day and night
optimizing juiciness, texture, and flavour. Burgers
(steak, lamb, turkey, veggie, and salmon), fries and
shakes are all they sell and business is good—they’re
about to complete an expansion of their slick ’50s-syle
Kitsilano space. 2507 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-0005.
$
MILESTONE'S
Perky servers, apparently cloned from the same master
cell, espouse the virtues of the famous spinach and
artichoke dip with blind devotion. Slow roasted AAA
prime rib ($20.99) with savoury bread pudding is usually
a safe bet, and the red jewel coconut prawns ($18.99)
with sweet pepper and red curry will have you signalling
for another pint of their custom brewed Palomino pale
ale. Burgers, fusion fare and cutesy share plates round
out a menu that also bangs out a pretty solid brunch
on weekends. Wine list needs a serious overhaul. Various
locations. $$
MOONPENNIES
This café opens up early for the business crowd,
where busy commuters grab bagels, scones and muffins
or pause for a frittata or omelette served sandwich-style
($6.95) along with a coffee or juice to start the day.
Lunch could be a selection of fresh baguettes such as
roast beef, brie or smoked salmon ($4.75-$7.47) or a
quiche, potpie or pasta. Offices order up platters of
fresh fruit, mini-omelettes and baguette party trays
to keep their workers fuelled through breakfast or lunch
meetings. 1102 W. Pender St., Downtown, 604-669-6092.
$$
MOXIE'S
When you’re dealing with an indecisive group,
Moxie’s is an okay bet. The wide-ranging menu,
lengthier than any of its casual chain competitors,
has everything from clubhouse sandwiches ($9.99) and
chicken wings ($9.99) to cookie-cutter fusion like Szechwan
green beans ($7.99) and Tandoori chicken pizza ($12.99).
The location near GM Place is popular for pre-game nosh,
while the patio on Denman is prime real estate for people
watching. Now with 51 locations across Western Canada.
1759 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-678-9973; 1160 Davie
St., West End, 604-678-8043; 808 Bute St., West End,
604-696-9986; 180 W. Georgia St. Downtown, 604-684-8434.
$$-$$$
9TH AVENUE GRILL
For all the Vancouverites who claim to skip breakfast,
there’s a preponderance of all-day egg-’n’-bacon
joints in town. This family-run operation, on the border
of Kits and South Granville, has a faithful following
who are willing to shell out a little extra for homemade,
high-quality ingredients. While there’s a somewhat-passé
emphasis on low-carb options (like an English-muffinless
Benny: why bother?), you can’t go wrong with the
9th Avenue Omelette Special (bacon, sausage, zucchini,
mushrooms, eggplant, green onions, diced tomatoes and
feta), and the locally roasted coffee always clears
the Sunday fog. 1822 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-714-0744.
$
PAUL'S PLACE OMELETTERY
This worn-around-the-edges neighbourhood spot does brisk
business specializing in the most important meal of
the day. Their signature omelettes are paper thin, stuffed
with a variety of inventive goodies (order from the
menu or create your own) and the coffee is strong and
plentiful. All of the generous breakfast fare is under
$10—except the Lumberjack, which is served via
forklift—and lunch brings a solid selection of
soups, burgers and sandwiches. Breakfast is served all
day and Paul’s is fully licensed, just in case
your morning meal requires a little hair of the dog.
Expect daily specials, friendly service, and long lineups
on the weekend. 2211 Granville St., South Granville,
604-737-2857. $$
PHAT
Getting a good, cheap lunch can be a tall order in Yaletown.
Not so at Phat, a rather unorthodox Jewish deli right
in the belly of the bling beast that’ll serve
you a gin martini to pair with your all-beef kosher
smokie and a cold beer to loosen the lox. Ideal for
a mid-shop pit stop when conserving funds for faux Fendi.
Counter service is remarkably swift, especially when
hard-working owner William Kaminski mans the till. Plenty
of sandwiches and several different bagel combinations
can be had, and the patio is arguably one of the least
expensive people-watching digs in the city. Still, the
Montréal smoked meat is the main draw; it’s
arguably the best this side of the Great Lakes. 1055
Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-684-6239. $
PICNIC
This Peter Cardew-designed eatery—an adjunct to
South Granville-staple Meinhardt Fine Foods—draws
as much attention for its sleek Scandinavian looks as
it does the food. New additions to the room, dominated
by an oversized mirror and central table, are four pairs
of smart leather tub chairs—for those, presumably,
who don’t like eating communally. Speaking of
the food—well, it’s from Meinhardt, so only
the poshest luncheon grub. The selection changes daily,
but we enjoyed the salmon salad sandwich on a recent
visit. And the deadly Meinhardt brownies seem to keep
reappearing—and promptly disappearing. 3001
Granville St., South Granville, 604-732-4405. $-$$
RELISH
The favoured watering hole/eatery of the Law Courts
crowd, Relish celebrated three years in business this
past August—and is evidently doing a good job
with non-legal eagles, too, as the sleek modernist room
fills up on evenings and weekends to an extent its predecessor,
Urban Well, never did. Credit the try-hard kitchen and
drinks card. Wine-drinking and light-noshing are the
preferred way to go—Relish won an honourable mention
for its wine list at the 2006 Vancouver Playhouse International
Wine Festival. Recommended mains include the lamb chops
(with honey lime couscous and cucumber yogurt) and the
lobster ravioli. The lounge is now open until 2 a.m.
888 Nelson St., Downtown, 604-669-1962. $$-$$$
RUGBY BEACH CLUB GRILLE
Cheap eats and drinks in a room that buzzes long and
late. The deceptively large space houses an indoor patio,
intimate booths and a lively lounge where $3 martinis
and cleansing ales flow fast. Killer value from the
grille ($10.95 for an eight-ounce sirloin) and mix-and-match
sides make every meal an adventure, some more enjoyable
than others. Service can be hit and miss so belly up
to the bar instead for a proper Black & Tan for
less than you’ll pay for a medium-sized latte.
Short but surprisingly good wine list holds a few gems
and weekend brunch is a gong show: brekkie starts at
$2.95. 950 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-736-2438.
$$
SALT TASTING ROOM
Sean Heather’s empire is spreading across Gastown:
the Irish Heather, Shebeen, Salty Tongue and now this—a
wine bar and charcuterie house down a cobbled gauntlet
that breathes just a slight frisson of danger. Find
GM Kurtis Kolt dispensing wine, sage advice, beautifully
cut, locally sourced salami, international and local
cheeses and cured meats from Oyama, J N & Z, and
Moccia’s (there’s no kitchen). Condiments
source fruits of the Okanagan. The room can grow loud
later, but it’s a good loud—the mood is
festive and as light as the simple menu, stencilled
on the far blackboard, and on a custom menu, handwritten
just for you. Blood Alley (enter off Abbott or Carrall
St.), Gastown, 604-633-1912. $-$$
SEAWALL BAR & GRILL
Sitting on the south shore of Coal Harbour next to the
main entrance to Stanley Park, this laid-back indoor/outdoor
nautical bar isn’t just for tourists. Although
there’s enough scenery inside, the real action
(in the summer) is outside on the deck, where the view
spans the harbour and the North Shore. The after-work
crowd and hotel guests commune at patio tables and enjoy
specialty drinks such as the Seawall Sunset (vodka,
cranberry and triple sec), then motor through a bucket
of peel-and-eat prawns ($20) or a pound of spicy chicken
wings ($12). The juicy sirloin burger offers even more
incentive to stay past midnight. 1601 Bayshore Dr.,
Coal Harbour, 604-682-3377. $$
SEB'S MARKET CAFE
Owner François Godbout left a busy movie-catering
business to make this charming Mount Pleasant café
his primary obsession. An ever-changing menu is full
of unpretentious and delicious bistro fare: baked camembert
with candied maple garlic jam and fruit preserves ($6),
seared scallops with orange ginger glaze ($7), and a
Moroccan-spiced lamb shank with apricot and Burgundy
jus ($14) are full-flavoured. The casual and friendly
room features live jazz on the weekends, and Godbout’s
brunch service fills up so quickly that regulars wake
up early on Sundays to secure their spot. 592 E.
Broadway, South Main, 604-298-4403. $-$$
SHASHUKA
Go for the gelato, stay for the art. This bright little
room showcases an array of local artwork in various
mediums and 32 rotating flavours of house-made gelatos.
Chef Alfred Fan’s (ex-Wild Garlic) varied menu
is certainly more accessible than some of the objets
d’art. Breakfast specialty is the Shakshuka ($7.50):
two eggs with roma tomato, green pepper and cheese.
Great coffee, fresh smoothies and over 20 different
salads (try a combination of four for $10)—an
interesting concept in a location that may prove challenging.
6555 Fraser St., South Vancouver, 604-677-8204.
$$
SLICKETY JIM'S CHAT 'N' CHEW
This offbeat café on Main Street has gained a
loyal following with generous portions of quality comfort
food, eccentric personalities and kitschy garage sale
decor. The menu reads like it was written by an acid-tripping
English major. “If Stalin Had a Rubber Ducky”
($8.75) is a belly filling crowd pleaser of a grilled
salmon tomatillo Benny and two eggs scrambled with cheddar
cheese and black forest ham on an English muffin (a.k.a.
the McDecimation of Cultural Diversity at $7.75) is
as interesting as its moniker. Beware of long waits
at peak hours. 2513 Main St., South Main, 604-873-6760.
$-$$
STEAMWORKS BREWING CO.
There are two locations, but the expansive Gastown spot
is the original and the more popular. It’s the
one where beer drinkers are afforded the rare pleasure
of downing a few pale ales in the building where they
were actually brewed. Recognizing the need for variety
to accommodate walk-in tourists and cruise ship crowds,
they maintain a huge menu, with everything from a ginger
beef starter ($10.99) to a seafood crêpe entrée
($17.99). The blue cheese burger ($10.49), however,
is a standout. 375 Water St., Gastown, 604-689-2739;
900 Main St., West Van, 604-922-8882. $$
STELLA'S TAP AND TAPAS BAR
From the ashes of former Drive fixture Santos arises
Stella’s, by starlight pouring a cavalcade of
local and Belgian beers in a concrete and blond-wooded
room. A cornet of frites (with the aïoli of the
day) pairs well; accompany with P.E.I. moules eight
ways: the Granny Smith apple, Calvados, bacon and mushroom
cream version is outstanding. A 50-seat patio is prime
real estate to wrestle back a flat-iron steak sandwich,
Creole mustard and horseradish crème fraiche.
The small plates menu (range $6-12) and service stars
shine brightly at night. Patio open and heated year-round.
1191 Commercial Dr., 604-254-2437. $$
SUBEEZ
Industrial style decor is softened by the legacy of
years of dripping candles. Subeez is a popular after-work
drinks spot where local techies share plates of organic
nachos ($13), calamari ($9.50), and garlic-mayo fries
($7). Breakfast is served all day—try a mushroom
and herb frittata, $9. The lunch crowd enjoys chicken
and brie baguettes served with salad and fries ($13),
sirloin, bacon, mushroom and cheese burgers ($13) and
a selection of salads. All reasonably good, but the
kitchen needs to find focus in order to be considered
a serious dining establishment. 891 Homer St., Yaletown,
604-687-6107. $$
THE TEMPLETON
It might appear to be a greasy spoon diner on an unsavoury
block of Granville flanked by sex shops, but it’s
decidedly of the 21st century. Organic free-range chicken
burgers (9.50), free-run eggs, hawkeye salmon omelette
($10), and preservative-free bacon are enjoyed to juke
tunes and the smell of organic coffee always on the
trot. In the evenings, regulars bump in for the classic
movies projected on the wall, as well as for the free
wireless internet. Proprietors Jessica Kaman (ex-biologist
for the U.S. government) and Ricardo Farinha (ex-adventure
tour guide) are omnipresent, leading a staff as casually
dressed as their customers. 1087 Granville St.,
Downtown, 604-685-4612. $
VERA'S BURGER SHACK
Now with eight locations and growing fast, Vera’s
has been collecting awards and accolades for its burgers
since opening on West Van’s Dundarave Pier in
1977. But with franchises popping up everywhere, Frank
and Vera can’t inspect every burger that comes
off the grill. Sadly, despite big, fresh, high-quality
patties and unparalleled fixin’ options, there’s
growing fast-foodiness to these places. Two very un-fast-food-like
features, though, are liquor licenses and prices one
might expect to pay for a pub burger. Multiple locations.
$
THE WHIP
Two parts urban loft, one part English pub, cheery service
and a gallery of rotating local artwork make a potent
potable called The Whip. Under new ownership, this local
watering hole has kicked it up a notch, offering a menu
as eclectic as their growing clientele. Great brews
on tap, a small but carefully chosen wine list and sangrias
named after the four Cardinal virtues (is it wrong to
order a second jug of Prudence?) make this a great spot
to quench your thirst. Weekends boast booming brunch
business and Cask Ale Sundays draw a crowd. 209
6th Ave., South Main, 604-874-4687. $-$$
WING NUTS
This Main Street hole in the wall, brought to you by
the Burgoo crew, is dedicated to all things wings (12
for $8.69). Over 15 varieties of house-made sauces and
dips range from tepid to five-alarm fire, but rest assured
there’s plenty of ice-cold brew on hand to douse
the flames. Daily specials round out a menu where you’ll
also find a mean poutine ($6.79) and a generous steak
and cheese sandwich ($8.49). Good news for those shut
out on busy game nights: they’re in process of
doubling seating capacity. Check out the Wall of Flame,
a photomontage of satisfied customers beaming through
red stained lips. Delivery available daily after 4:00
p.m. 4444 Main St., South Main, 604-874-9874. $-$$
YAGGER'S DOWNTOWN RESTAURANT
& BAR
Hipster version of Cheers with one exception—adventurous
menu focussing on homey food for a grown-up palate.
Not what you’d expect to find in this neighbourhood.
But these guys (ex-Wild Rice) are happy to see you.
Sidle up to the bar and order a Jagermeister (what else?)
to get whet for big plates, many less than 10 bucks.
Scarf down one of the best burgers in town, 75 percent
beef with 25 percent pork to give it just enough moistness,
perched on a Mix Bakery bun with chipotle. Mounds of
creamy macaroni and cheese is packed with white cheddar
and gorgonzola. Extensive martini list both fun and
serious. Private back room, although a bit rough around
the skirting board, completes look with big screen.
Decent little wine list. 433 W. Pender St., Downtown,
604-602-7030. $$
YALETOWN BREWING COMPANY
One of the first restaurants to open in our warehouse-cum-trend
fretting neighbourhood, this brew pub/sports bar keeps
things casual in an otherwise ostentatious scene. Pro-forma
pub fare (sure-fire hits include the barbecue chicken
or the “Best Vegetarian Pizza Ever!”and
the beer-battered halibut and chips) pairs well with
the lagers and ales brewed onsite. The large wrap-around
patio hugs the corner of Mainland and Helmcken—it’s
a prime spot for looking at people you’ll never
see again. A new second storey floor is being added.
1111 Mainland St., Yaletown, 604-681-2739. $$$
YEW YORK
Years ago a gypsy woman cursed the corner of Yew and
York in Kitsilano vowing that on that land no business
shall grow. How else to rationalize the fact that no
restaurant can survive in this seemingly great location?
Yew York is the latest challenger to seek to make right
this maligned real estate and their recipe appears simple—throw
everything but the kitchen sink on the menu and surely
something will catch. The menu features dry ribs ($9),
chicken wings ($9), and phyllo-wrapped prawns stuffed
with cream cheese and roasted garlic ($12.50). Stick
with the pints and their logical accompaniments, such
as the garlic frites ($7), and you’ll be happy.
1602 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-730-8870. $$
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