Japanese

AJISAI SUSHI BAR
Wonderful, hidden (in the lane just east of London Drugs) reasonably priced sushi gem with freshest local albacore sashimi, salmon and more exotic twists. A treat for undernourished Kerrisdale. 2081 W. 42nd Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-1428. $$

ASAHI-YA
Simplicity is the order of the day in this unpretentious room smack in the middle of the hordes. The combination chicken and beef teriyaki, served on a sizzling platter, is delicious. So is the assorted sashimi, cool and firm bites of the usual seafood suspects, nicely presented. 1230 Robson St., West End, 604-688-8777. $

BLACK TUNA
Chef/Owner Jacob Jung performs inspired invention, blending a menu of traditional Japanese cuisine pushed modern. For lunch the baked eggplant with shrimp in a creamy spicy sauce comes with rice and miso soup for $9.95; a variety of inventive rolls are all $9.95. Dinner could run you $29.95, but that includes the appetizer of the day, miso soup, rice and dessert, and your choice of items such as jumbo scallops with spicy bean sauce, miso-marinated black cod or beef tenderloin with teriyaki. 202-1184 Denman St., West End, 604-408-7557. $$-$$$

EBISU
Crowd is edgy Asian kids, decor equal parts sports bar and System’s night club in its 80’s heyday. Don’t be put off by some of the odd items on the menu, they’re worth checking out. Fresh seafood and greens dressed in a creamy dressing combine for a sprightly sashimi salad. Tender chicken yakitori skewers are meant to be shared, along with the massive rolls, including a mackerel roll that is scorched with a blow torch table side. Ubiquitous deep fried ebi shrimp is paired with a house-made spicy mayo. Settle in with a pitcher of beer. 827 Bute St., West End, 604-689-8266. $$

EZOGIKU NOODLE CAFE
Two downtown locations serve up inexpensive, authentic Japanese food, such as stellar gyozas and huge bowls of steaming ramen crowded with decent ingredients, served hot and fast. The popular charsiu ramen ($7.50) is served with tender barbecue pork, corn and bean sprouts in a light miso broth. But beware; trying to get a seat at high noon feels like a Tokyo commuter train at rush hour. 1329 Robson St., West End, 604-685-8606; 270 Robson St., Yaletown, 604-685-9466. $

GUU/GUU WITH GARLIC/GUU WITH OTOKOMAE
Tasty shared plates reign supreme in these frenetic rooms teeming with hungry ESL students and thrill-seeking foodies. Like a bullet train to Tokyo, the authentic Japanese tapas come fast and furious—plunge into spicy hot pots ($6), grilled pork cheek with ponzo sauce ($4.80) and black cod with miso mayo ($6.30) that will have you calling for another bottle of plum wine. The best seats at all three locations are at the bar, which provide an entertaining glimpse into the frenetic kitchen. Check out the rotating daily specials and eclectic cocktails to get things started and then slide into the creamy almond tofu for a satisfying finish. Guu, 838 Thurlow St., West End, 604-685-8817; Guu with Garlic, 1698 Robson St., West End, 604-685-8678; Guu with Otokomae, 105-375 Water St., Gastown, 604-685-8682. $$

GYOZA KING
When Vancouver’s chefs dine out on their days off, Gyoza King is a frequent destination. The house favourite is, of course, gyoza—plump Japanese dumplings. Choose among chicken and vegetable, pork and chives, or a veggie version with spinach (about $4 for 6, $7 for 10). Ramen or udon soup is popular, the nabeyaki udon tops—it’s packed with pork, egg, prawn and fish cake for $8.95. Japanese students and tourists frequent Gyoza for an authentic taste of home. 1508 Robson St., West End, 604-669-8278. $-$$

GYU TEPPANYAKI
Japanese grill-food: The real deal is the usuyaki, an all-you-can-eat lunch for $19.95. There’s edamame, salad, miso soup, seafood, chicken, beef, rice and vegetables, with the chef cooking it up right in front of you. Evenings see a similar theme with the “house special”—it’s not all-you-can-eat, but the portions are large for $28.95. Those who prefer à la carte can opt for prawn tempura ($13.95), ribeye ($22) or chicken breast ($10.95) or add sides such as foie gras, geoduck, lobster or a rack of lamb. 219-755 Burrard St., Downtown, (enter off Alberni), 604-688-7050. $$$

HACHIBEI
Much like Aerosmith, the continuing allure of this perennially crammed 16th Avenue eatery is something of a mystery. Its “decor” utilizes both shiny and matte duct tape; the menu invokes “Sweet Emotion” as a chart topper. But what the food lacks in imagination it makes up for in ample portions and fresh ingredients, and the family who runs the show are always exceptionally friendly and lightning-fast with service. The barbecue mackerel ($10.15) is one of the pleasant surprises on the menu, as is the $8 big bottle of Kirin—the cheapest we’ve found on the west side. 778 W. 16th Ave., Fairview, 604-879-3357. $$

HANABI
Ensconced on the second floor of Alberni Street, this recently opened jewel glimmers with traditional Japanese standards and a few surprises. A short elevator ride finds fresh sushi as intricate as origami, cool and delicious as it is authentic. Bountiful bento boxes and crispy tempura, and the Hanabi house roll ($7.95), with crab and spicy tuna, is garnished with pan-fried vegetables in a savoury oyster sauce. The room is simple—head for the wraparound sushi bar. 200-1050 Alberni St., West End, 604-488-0184. $$-$$$

HAPA IZAKAYA
Hapa blends casual Canada and young Tokyo to a soundtrack as modern and loud as the dark, super-cool room. Young, homesick ESL students and local foodies seek out and share homerun Japatapas like the negitoro, sweet with spring onions mixed with roughly chopped tuna belly. Addictive Japanese pumpkin dip is served with crackers. Must haves include the ika, a grilled whole squid marinated in garlic teriyaki. The drinks list is fine, and the quality of the food hasn’t wobbled since expansion and back of house desertions. Owners Lea and Justin Ault have hired the very competent Atsuo Nomura (ex-Bistro Sakana, Yuji’s) to replace Takahiro Toyoshige. 1479 Robson St., West End, 604-689-4272, 1516 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-738-4272. $$

HIME SUSHI
A neighbourhood joint in the best and worst sense of the word. On the plus side are the new bright orange digs (across the street from the old location), and nice cuts of the classics (sake, toro). On the con, the menu features nothing but the classics, and the service can be distant and absentminded—no small feat in so tiny a space. But the locals love it (they offer free delivery) and it has prospered on a block that features two other competing sushi restaurants, so they must be doing something right. 3-4480 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-224-2121. $$

IRASHAI SUSHI
Sleek and polished with dark wood accents, this neighbourhood restaurant has a community feel with photos of sponsored Little League teams covering the walls. Seats are at a premium as Kerrisdale denizens pack this small room for lunch and dinner. The menu moves beyond standard Japanese fare with izakaya offerings like tuna and salmon isobe age and asparagus beef. Check the specials menu for creative dishes—Dungeness crab salad with avocado, pine nuts, and grapefruit is a winner. 2260 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-9332. $$

KADOYA
A cosy little joint on Davie serving inventive sushi rolls. Try the coconut-sprinkled Snow White Roll with shrimp tempura ($7.50; but pass on the soy sauce, it ruins the delicate flavours), the Rainbow Roll topped with colourful masago ($7.25), or the Stanley Park with yam, unagi tempura with green roe ($6.75). Décor is minimal, though a wall of visitors’ comment cards (one reader’s haiku reads: “Tiny Kadoya / Your colourful walls entice / Another fish dies.”) provides plenty to look at. 1063 Davie St., West End, 604-608-1115. $-$$

KAMEI ROYALE
A large, bustling room with plenty of alcoves cornered off with Fusuma sliding doors. The menu is a tome of 150 items so know that the maguro tacos—seared fresh tuna with zippy ginger dressing in crunchy wonton tacos ($7.50)—and the gyu tataki ($9.50)—lightly seared beef with housemade ponzu sauce—are especially good. Also worth exploring are specialty rolls like the “cherry blossom” ($13.95) with salmon and avocado wrapped with vibrant Hawaiian Red tuna. After sampling premium sake and shochu, stumble to the adjoining karaoke bar (9 p.m. onwards). 211-1030 W. Georgia St., Downtown, 604-687-8588. $$

KINGYO
This West End upstart sets the standard for Japanese tapas with efficient, friendly service, sake-fuelled conviviality and a diverse menu of delicious small plates. The sleek room, all lacquered wood and stone walls, conjures romantic images of feudal Japan; the communal table at the centre of the room is surrounded with green bamboo, creating a private space in a boisterous space. Ex-Guu chef Koji Zenimaru turns out grilled beef tongue ($6.50), chicken kara age ($5.80) with three types of salt and glisteningly fresh assorted sashimi (3 kinds for $15) artfully presented on a long shaft of bamboo. 871 Denman St., West End, 604-608-1677. $$

KINTARO RAMEN
The weekend queues at Vancouver’s definitive ramen house moves quickly. Aim for a prime counter seat rather than one of the dozen tables if you’re interested in chef’s technique. The decor may be bare, but the flavours are decidedly not. Cheap, delicious half dozens of gyoza are plumply satisfying, but the main event lies in the restorative soups. The miso soup is a sure-fire hangover solution, but you’ll pick up more ramen speed in a bowl of the heroic Forest Fire (available Saturdays only), a staircase of jewel-clean broth, burnt scallions, pork and tofu gems from four different regions of Japan. 788 Denman St., West End, 604-682-7568. $

MODERN CLUB
Like the Holy Roman Empire, this quaint Dunbar eatery is neither Modern, nor a Club, but that doesn’t seem to deter the throngs of locals who patronize this place—“over 90 percent Canadian” its website oddly touts. The specialty here is Okonomiyaki ($13.80-19.80), a fried Japanese pancake/pizza concoction that is native to Osaka and eaten with a cute little steel spatula. More common Japanese fare, like the well executed spicy tuna roll ($3.20), is served as well, but it’s the teppan fried specialty which keeps them coming back. A solid sake selection complements the fare. 3446 Dunbar St., West Point Grey, 604-739-0170. $-$$

OCTOPUS' GARDEN
With hundreds of Japanese restaurants in Vancouver and the internationally celebrated Tojo’s just a few miles away, why The Garden? First, no dour cut-man is head chef Sada San; his humour lights up his bar in dishes entitled Yellow Submarine (a roll of mango, yellowtail, tobiko and tempura—with telescope) and Lobster on Vacation, served both steamed, and also encased in barely-there tempura. The omakase menu of kaiseki dishes, which changes daily, is masterfully delivered; more conventional tuna sashimi, sunomono salads and uni sushi are also amongst the city’s freshest. Don’t miss the double hit of stinking rose in Spicy Garlic Mountain: stir-fried udon with garlic shoots and chilies, topped with deep-fried garlic cloves. The perfect antidote: the sterling selection of artisanal sakes. 1995 Cornwall Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-8971. $$-$$$

OHANA BAR-B-QUE
No-frills, plastic cutlery Kingsway eatery painted sunshine orange and yellow. Chicken katsu and barbecue short ribs, Maui-style, team with Hawaii fried rice. Takeout party trays are a bargain and substantial. 920 Kingsway, 604-872-3368. $

OKADA
Chef Okada reflects changing seasonality on the daily fresh sheet (dinner only). Try the luscious monkfish liver (the ocean equivalent of foie gras) and fresh kanpachi. In the fall look for local pine mushrooms steamed with garlic butter in foil or served as a “tea” sharpened with a squeeze of lime. Finish the meal with a soothing bowl of chazuke—green tea poured over rice topped with salmon or preserved plum (ume). M101-888 Nelson St., Second Floor, Downtown, 604-899-3266. $$$

OMI JAPAN
My mother-in-law claims she coined the saying “location, location, location.” Leaving aside the veracity of that claim, its mantra has been taken to heart by the gang at Omi. Smack dab in the middle of Granville Island, this spot has served the first taste of sushi to rubber-tired, middle-America tourists. By-in-large they have been competently served. Basic Japanese menu—they serve a lot of California Rolls ($3.95)—but thankfully corresponding basic pricing. 1689 Johnston St., South Granville, 604-685-8011. $

OSAKA TEPPANYAKI
Will teppanyaki enjoy an ironic, fondue-like comeback? Until that happens, Osaka is perfect for those holdouts who associate Japanese food with fried meat. But like fondue, teppanyaki is fun—especially if you are expansive enough to order the Osaka special with its cavalcade of flesh “from the sky to deep ocean” ($49.95). Or opt for the more traditional filetmignon ($28.25), helpfully conjugated into a single word—in case you’re in a hurry. A “retro” Japanese experience. 102-1788 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-733-8258. $$$-$$$$

SHIJO
Certainly in the first rank of the city’s Japanese restaurants. Begin with a sunomono salad, then move to grilled miso oysters or gyoza. The sushi is first-rate, the foilyaki mushrooms piquant counterpoints. Try the brown rice sushi, and whatever is on the fresh sheet. 1926 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-4676. $$$-$$$$

SHIRO
This tiny spot illustrates how good our Japanese neighbourhood restaurants can be. Habitués aim for seats at the sushi bar, where owner Shiro Okano cheerfully holds court as he deconstructs fish with his cleaver. Expect fresh sushi, good gyoza and amazing deep-fried squid. 3096 Cambie St., South Cambie, 604-874-0027. $-$$

SHIRU-BAY CHOPSTICK CAFE
Expansive interior of polished concrete, exposed ducts and samurai motifs gives this Yaletown izakaya a warm, modernist feel in winter; the outdoor patio takes over in summer. Legions of too-cool-for-school kids and young profligates flock and feast on affordable small plates that can sometimes border on the truly experimental (especially on the daily fresh sheet). But not even executive chef Kyo Lin’s more intriguing inventions can defeat the serious service issues that flummox tableside. If you can grin and bear it (and you should), aim for the richly flavoured Kobe beef carpaccio with truffle oil, reggiano cheese and Fuji apples, then give the wasabi-marinated octopus a go. Minced kurobuta pork gyozas—studded with asparagus tips—pair well with tall boy Sapporos. The “ta-ke-sa-ke” is served ice cold in a bamboo sleeve culled from Kyoto’s Kiyomizu Temple. 1193 Hamilton St., Yaletown, 604-408-9315. $$-$$$

SONOMAMA SUSHI BAR & GRILL
Chef Anji Kim fuses French and Japanese elements in the heart of the Granville entertainment district. Hawaiian chicken katsu ($5.95), served corndog-style, is crunchy, spicy and sweet. The west coast roll is a winning combination of cream cheese, avocado, cucumber and wild smoked salmon ($7.50). Finish with the green tea ice cream with red bean paste, roasted pine nut sprinkles and Matcha powder ($4). A perfect prelude to a night on the town. 980 Granville St., Downtown, 604-662-3770. $$

SUSHI HACHI
A wise judge once said “Son, the world needs ditch diggers too.” In the 400-strong universe of Vancouver sushi restaurants, that means that not everyone can be Hidekazu Tojo. But day in, day out what is needed is a clean, well-lit place that serves sound fish at humane prices. In Kerrisdale, find Sushi Hachi, where the menu runs to an inspired green bean tempura roll ($3.00) hiding among the stalwarts. Cut the sake off when the giant squid mural on the wall recalls 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea. 2245 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604 263-1877. $

TANPOPO
Eating here and not ordering the all you can eat sushi ($12 for lunch, $21 for dinner) is like reading Playboy for the articles—what’s the point? And frankly once you’ve crossed the “all you can eat” line (quantity over quality) this is a good bet. The second floor Denman location is always buzzing, and there are views of English Bay and even a little patio up top. Now start eating. 1122 Denman St., West End, 604-681-7777. $$

TOJO'S
Hidekazu Tojo has recited his distinct brand of Japanese seafood haiku for about 35 years. Perennial winner of the Vancouver magazine restaurant award for Best Japanese. Now moved to dramatic (and pleasingly quiet) new premises farther west along Broadway, signatures of local albacore tuna with sesame marinade, shrimp dumplings with hot mustard sauce, lightly steamed monkfish and sautéed halibut cheeks still shine. A sake bar, omakaze bar and tatami rooms rim the room—it’s a delight. Stars and moguls abound—bring money if you want to keep up. Sushi bar stools amongst most coveted seats in town. 1133 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-872-8050. $$$$

TOMOKAZU
Sushi and excess are fundamentally opposed, despite what the popularity of Vancouver’s all-you-can-eat Japanese restaurants might suggest. If you must gorge, at least come here, where a wide variety of fresh fish and a clean, spacious room add some respectability to the affair. Lunch and late-night (after 9:30 p.m.) buffets are a bargain ($9.95 and $12.95, respectively), but the expansive “deluxe dinner” menu ($22.95), which includes upscale delicacies like tuna belly and raw oysters on the half-shell, is where the restaurant stands out. 20-1128 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-677-0426. $-$$

TORATATSU
Sitting on a stretch of Denman that’s chewed up and spat out many an ambitious restaurateur, Toratatsu—a spin-off of Kodai Uno’s Shiru-Bay—takes over the space most recently occupied by Clove. It is, like many spin-offs, a paler version of the original; there’s even the trademark ebi chili mayo (“with Shiru Bay’s original chili”) from the Yaletown izakaya. Nothing tastes quite as fresh here—perhaps because the turnover isn’t as great: we were one of two tables at 7:30 on a Thursday night, compared to the always-packed Shiru Bay. Drinks are top-notch, though: try the bourbon sour. 735 Denman St., Coal Harbour, 604-685-9399. $$

TOSHI
Bright and airy, if Spartan. Find frequent line-ups for the freshest sushi (owner Toshi Saito is experienced and expert: he’s one of the founders of Whistler’s acclaimed Sushi Village) and crunchy agedashi tofu with wondrous hot sauce. The grilled squid is outstanding. 181 E. 16th Ave., South Main, 604-874-5173. $-$$

YOSHI
This elegant second-floor room has one of the best patios in the city—looking over Coal Harbour marinas. If it’s available, order the kenchin-yaki: baked sea bream stuffed with egg and ginko nut. Phone ahead and ask for the omakase—the daily shifting, chef’s choice menu that begins with sashimi—each with unique and tasty sauces and sides, such as slightly-seared bluefin tuna with crunchy slivers of mountain yam and enoki mushroom sauce. Take chef Yoshinobu Kobayashi’s omakase at the sushi bar—the choreography of steel and flesh is worth the ticket price. Good selection of premium sakes, some organically grown. 689 Denman St., West End, 604-738-8226. $$$-$$$$

YUJI'S JAPANESE TAPAS
In this spare, modern room, Chef Yuji Otsuka subverts conventional expectations of izakaya dining as a boisterous affair. The vibe is decidedly low-key, the menu is adventurous, and the service is friendly and attentive. Sweet potato tempura sticks are a favourite with the regulars: lightly battered and crisp fried with curry mayo and spicy ketchup for dipping. Maguro mari-ne features chunks of albacore tuna served in three separate marinades of spicy chili, sesame and yuzu citrus. Keep an eye on the specials sheet for dishes like panko-encrusted halibut cheeks wrapped in bacon and served with spicy tomato and tartar sauce. Cleanse your palate with a simple dish of floral yuzu sorbet. 2059 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-4990. $$-$$$

ZEST
Japanese Cuisine Reservations are a must—with a dearth of restaurants along the West 16th corridor, evenings often find Zest filled to capacity with well-heeled west-siders and Japanese expats. The understated, serene aesthetic marries spare Japanese elegance with organic west coast elements. Menu items are a mix of the traditional and the adventurous, and presentation is decidedly modern. Soba crab rolls are a nori-wrapped combination of crisped buckwheat noodles and crab meat, deep fried and served in softly flavoured broth. Sablefish (yuan zuke) is grilled and infused with an aromatic yuzu sauce, and the tender chunks of chicken karaage are a must-order item. 2775 W. 16th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-731-9378 $-$$

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