RESTAURANT REVIEWS


Kerrisdale


AJISAI SUSHI BAR
Wonderful, hidden (in the lane just east of London Drugs) reasonably priced sushi gem with freshest local albacore sashimi, salmon and more exotic twists. A treat for undernourished Kerrisdale. 2081 W. 42nd Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-1428. $$

FINEST AT SEA
Tucked away in Kerrisdale, this three-in-one fishmonger, gourmet deli, and bistro offers arguably the best fish n’ chips this side of the pond. Chef Jordan McLean serves only sustainable B.C. seafood: salmon has a classic British no-fuss batter and is served with seasoned fries, tartar sauce and slaw ($8 for one piece; $11.50 for two); crab cakes provide a lighter—though still satisfying—lunch served with sweet chili mayo and greens ($11). Bisque is a bargain at only $4 a bowl. Great for a casual lunch or early dinner (Closes at 8:00 p.m. on most days). 4675 Arbutus St., Kerrisdale, 604-266-1904. $

FISH CAFE
Concept: Simple grilled seafood, cod and chips, and a standout burger. Already celebrated in Kerrisdale, Fish Café recently opened a location in Kitsilano—and the Fourth Avenue stroll is better for this brave little room, decorated by a decorous host. The cuisine is honest and determinedly local—we hope the locals find it. 2053 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-267-3474; 2278 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-3474. $$

GOLDEN OCEAN
Busy, brisk turnover keeps the dim sum in the pushcarts fresh and the kitchen creative. Try Vietnamese-style prawn mousse popsicles wrapped around a stick of sugarcane; bitter melon stuffed with dace purée; seafood rolls wrapped in napa cabbage; and fried, matcha-tinted rice ball dumplings filled with sesame paste. 2046 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-263-8606. $$

IRASHAI SUSHI
Sleek and polished with dark wood accents, this neighbourhood restaurant has a community feel with photos of sponsored Little League teams covering the walls. Seats are at a premium as Kerrisdale denizens pack this small room for lunch and dinner. The menu moves beyond standard Japanese fare with izakaya offerings like tuna and salmon isobe age and asparagus beef. Check the specials menu for creative dishes—Dungeness crab salad with avocado, pine nuts, and grapefruit is a winner. 2260 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-9332. $$

SENOVA
Senova is owner Manuel Ferreira’s love song, a homesick look back to his native land. And the food—paella, salt cod, and suckling pig—is a worthy paean to the sun-filled place. Ferreira, who also owns Le Gavroche, has filled his bins with a broad selection of Iberian bottles, many at decent prices. The room is cosy, the crowd equal parts Crofton House PTA meeting and inbound YVR passengers. 1864 W. 57th Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-8643. $$$

SPICE ISLANDS
Awash in a palate of greens and greys, this tranquil room welcomes you with hushed tones and warm, attentive service. Chef/owner Joseph Boon’s Indonesian fare is rich and flavourful, infused with Indian, Arabic, Spanish, Dutch and Chinese influences. Martabak is a crispy, flaky variant of the beef samosa, a textural contrast to the lush softness of opor ayam, chicken in a delicate white curry. Quench your thirst with coconut water served still in the husk—with or without a shot of rum, it’ll help dial down the heat. Spek koek with rambutan sorbet is a light, sweet way to round out your meal; also known as Lapis Legit, it’s the Indonesian take on the Dutch multi-layered butter cake. 3592 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604-266-7355. $$-$$$

SUSHI HACHI
A wise judge once said “Son, the world needs ditch diggers too.” In the 400-strong universe of Vancouver sushi restaurants, that means that not everyone can be Hidekazu Tojo. But day in, day out what is needed is a clean, well-lit place that serves sound fish at humane prices. In Kerrisdale, find Sushi Hachi, where the menu runs to an inspired green bean tempura roll ($3.00) hiding among the stalwarts. Cut the sake off when the giant squid mural on the wall recalls 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea. 2245 W. 41st Ave., Kerrisdale, 604 263-1877. $

 

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