Kingsway

ASHIANA TANDOORI
This long-standing east-side favourite is a world away from Kingsway’s frantic pace. Rick and Sonia Takhar have been serving classic Indian fare for almost 25 years, with dishes from their tandoori oven as the cornerstone of the menu. Peshwari chicken tikka arrives sizzing on a cast-iron plate, tender chunks of chicken marinated in yogurt, mustard and ground aromatic spices. Kashmiri lamb rogan josh has a complex flavour: rich, creamy and deep with a hint of sweet and finishing with a sharp heat. Onion-and-coriander-stuffed tandoori kulcha is perfect for mopping up the last remnants of curry. 1440 Kingsway, 604-874-5060. $$-$$$

BA LE FRENCH SANDWICH
Tucked away in a nondescript pan-ethnic strip mall, Ba Le French Sandwich sees a steady stream of customers in search of food-in-hand at bargain prices. A photo board helps to decipher the succinct Vietnamese menu, but newcomers needn’t look any further than the banh mi. The Vietnamese equivalent of a sub sandwich, it’s filled with pickled carrot and daikon, cilantro, the meat of your choice and served on a crusty halved baguette. Pick up two banh mi and a coconut water to wet your whistle, and you’ll still get change back from a $10 bill. 21-701 Kingsway, 604-875-6322; 121-633 Main St., Chinatown, 604-662-8108. $

CUCINA MANILA
Gauging from the lineup out the door for post-Mass Sunday lunch, the Filipino food served at this small eatery is the real deal. Cucina Manila’s $6 combination plate with rice and two entrées is an absolute steal. Few things pair better with rice than sweet, garlicky Bulacan longganisa (thumb-sized pork sausages) except, perhaps, for crispy pata, pork hock that’s first simmered and then quick-fried to a crackling crisp. Top marks for the pancit guisado: a well-seasoned mix of rice and egg noodles, julienned carrots and beans, red bell peppers, Chinese sausage, chicken, pork and shrimp. 5179 Joyce St., Kingsway, 604-435-4508. $

GREEN LETTUCE
Crowd pleaser: Asians, South Asians and Caucasians flock for masala fried rice, orders of bite-size tender chicken with a push of spicy heat. Sinus-clearing green beans and dumplings are terrific washed down with a cold one, or green tea. Always busy, but usually a short wait for tables. 1949 Kingsway, 604-876-9883. $-$$

HAL MAE JANG MO JIB
The name translates roughly as Mother-in-Law’s place, and the most popular location sits right in the heart of the unofficial Korean zone, a growing concentration of Korean restaurants on the westernmost stretch of Robson. Line-ups testify to its status as a top haunt for swarms of Korean students. The menu is varied, offering plenty of Korean favourites like seafood pancakes and noodles, as well as more exotic fare like pork-spine stew. The service can be spotty, especially at peak times. 1719 Robson St., West End, 604-642-0712; 518 Richards St., Downtown, 604-688-0712; 395 Kingsway, 604- 872-0712. $$

LA PIAZZA DARIO RISTORANTE
This old-school haunt, located in the Italian Cultural Centre, is serious about its food. The room, a monument to old-world Italy, is large and open, yet the linen-clad tables still manage to feel intimate. During the day, businessmen in Italian suits press the flesh and at night, starry-eyed couples sip chianti to the strains of operas—occasionally punctuated by a crooning Dean Martin. Chef Claudio’s menu features a stellar selection of meats, seafood, fowl and pasta, and the wine list strolls up and down the boot from Piedmonte to Calabria. Tops are homemade gnocchi, bites of pillowy perfection. 3075 Slocan St., Kingsway, 604-430-2195. $$$

LIBBY'S KITCHEN
A recent change in ownership hasn’t affected this homey little café one iota. From the charming antique stove in the entranceway, to the local artwork that hangs from saffron-coloured walls it’s all warm. Big and cheerful patio hosts a munch of grilled panini with spicy capicollo, caramelized onion and sweet pepper mayo ($6.95); all-day breakfasts, and a daily soup and sandwich special for $5.95. A free WiFi connection that’s as strong as the fair trade coffee lets you surf the net, with the help of those delicious triple chocolate brownies, of course. 3429 Porter St., Kingsway, 604-874-5547. $-$$

LOK'S CHINESE RESTAURANT
Great, homespun Cantonese food in generous portions served up at easy-to-swallow prices. Cantonese satays and curries; fresh, well-prepared seafood dishes; wontons, noodles and congee. Robust singing chicken and succulent satay-spiced beef with sweet peppers among standouts. 4890 Victoria Dr., Kingsway, 604-439-1888. $-$$

NINGDU RESTAURANT
Tea smoked duck balances crispy skin and succulent flesh with a smokiness that underlines rather than overwhelms. Fish fillets are dipped in light nori flecked batter and deep fried to a golden crispness; served with a traditional Chinese dark vinegar, it’s a fusion take on the English fish fry. A generous dish of preserved vegetables braised with tofu strips and edamame (which the menu identifies as green beans) demonstrates the many ways that soybeans appear in Northern Chinese dishes. The menu comes with very useful pictures (which are labeled only in Chinese). Cash and debit card only. 2130 Kingsway, 604-438-6669 $$

OHANA BAR-B-QUE
No-frills, plastic cutlery Kingsway eatery painted sunshine orange and yellow. Chicken katsu and barbecue short ribs, Maui-style, team with Hawaii fried rice. Takeout party trays are a bargain and substantial. 920 Kingsway, 604-872-3368. $

PHO THAI HOA
A recent change in ownership brought a much-needed face lift to both the decor and the menu of this no-frills family restaurant. Start with the chef’s special steamed rice rolls topped with Vietnamese pâté, or green papaya salad tossed with strips of sweet beef jerky in tangy vinaigrette. House special pho dac biet is a slurptastic beef lover’s delight: a jumble of fatty brisket, soft tendon, tripe, and meatballs with noodles in light, clean broth. Get your starch fix with bôt chiên—toothy, disc-shaped rice noodles pan-fried in sweet soya sauce with egg and green onion. 1625 Kingsway, 604-873-2348. $-$$

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