Kitsilano

ABIGAIL'S PARTY
Popular Kits location on Yew Street. Executive chef Ben DeChamplain’s menu showcases small, shareable dishes with heady flavours at humane prices; smartly styled, relaxed room plays host to first daters and locals indulging (until 2 a.m.). Goat cheese pavé, a pan-seared, potato wrapped bundle with roasted garlic and red wine and hibiscus reduction ($10) sets up the duck confit quesadillas with papaya, brie, and fig and orange salsa ($13). Wine list is stunted, but original cocktails soar—go for a Dangerous Liason: Woodford Reserve bourbon, vanilla bean infused cognac, sweet vermouth, chilies and honey ($7). 1685 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-739-4677. $$

ACCENTS
Do nice guys really finish last? This Broadway restaurant is nice to a fault, right down to offering the cuisine of no less than 18 countries for diners who can’t make up their mind. A good strategy is to focus on the Russian offerings, such as the bujenina (roast pork with sochi and horseradish for $6.99) or the blinis ($6.99), which are both faithfully executed. The niceness continues right to the odd, but spectacularly priced wine list which features a Tignanello 1998 for $100, a wine whose current vintage is only 4 dollars less at your local BC Liquor store. For more modest budgets the serviceable Pinot Noir from Cono Sur is only $20. 1967 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-6660. $$-$$$

ANNAPURNA: VEGETARIAN CUISINE OF INDIA
Paper lantern lighting and darkly mirrored walls almost allow you to forget you’re at the busiest intersection in Kitsilano. Owner Suresh calls them “Lady’s Fingers” but by any name the bhindi (sliced, spiced, and sautéed okra) is a treat ($12.95). Entrees (around $12) come with basmati rice but try the paratha—whole wheat bread stuffed with peas and potatoes—instead ($2.95). Samosas ($3.95 a pair) are served with cilantro and spicy chutneys. Meals vegan by request. Wash it all down with Indian beer. The room, and the menu, hasn’t changed much since it first opened, but the food is consistently decent. 1812 W. 12th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-5959. $-$$

APHRODITE'S ORGANIC CAFE
One of the few spots that can legitimately bill itself as all organic, all the time—many items are straight from a Glen Valley farm that morning. Every item is in season, from home-baked breads to soup. The chicken is from Thomas Reid and the water is from the farm well. Vegetables are unfiddled; handmade spelt-flour pizza carries a tumble of wild mushrooms and organic sheep’s milk feta from McClellan Farms. Pick up one of chef’s fruit pies next door. Watch for changes here: they’ll soon be expanding their kitchen. 3598 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-738-5879. $$

AKBAR'S OWN
Own what? You might wonder upon entering this restrained classical Indian eatery located on a quiet stretch of the Broadway corridor. This is a restaurant that is largely defined by what it isn’t, in that it does not have the fresh nouvelle approach of Vij’s or Rangoli nor does it have the timeless style and presentation of Maurya. What it does have is a solid approach to traditional Mughlai and Kashmiri specialties such as shrimp pakora ($8) lightly fried in chick-pea flour and the over comprehensive chicken tikka butter masala (isn’t that three different dishes?) for $11. Still the dishes are well executed and the service professional which makes this a solid if slightly uninspired choice. 1905 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-736-8180. $$

ANNAPURNA
Annapurna has been gracing the corner of Burrard and Fourth for the past decade and a half, but seems like it pre-dates Bob Geldof and nickel bags. The 1993 reviews prominently displayed from both the Sun and Province rave about the food, and you can take solace in the fact that both the traditional menu and decor are likely unchanged since those halcyon days. But the vegetarian menu is reasonably priced and consistent with such stalwarts as mutter paneer ($11.95) and kofda, the vegetarian version of the meatball ($11.95) doing the yeoman’s work. 1812 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-5959. $

ATHENE'S
Athene’s is smack in the heart of Broadway’s Hellenic district and, as Frank said, “If you can make it there you can make it anywhere.” The food is solid, which means that in addition to such gems as Arni Psito (slow-roasted lamb shoulder, $16.95) and kalamaris skaras (marinated, charbroiled squid $13.95), there is the requisite baked lasagna ($10.95) and a page of pizza selections. Stick with the former and you’ll do just fine. And, while West Broadway isn’t going to be mistaken for the Aegean any time soon, when the large windows open up and a breeze blows in you can almost imagine you are at a taverna in Rhodes. Solid as a Spartan. 3618 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-731-4135. $$

BANANA LEAF
Just about every Asian restaurant in town offers up some variation of a green bean dish, but the sambal green beans at Banana Leaf are the best around. The beans are ravishingly crisp, the sambal has infinite depth, and the shrimp and tomatoes make it a wrap. Devotees go for the signature chili crab; check ahead for availability. 1096 Denman St., West End, 604-683-3333; 820 W. Broadway, Fairview, 604-731-6333; 3005 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-3005. $$

BISHOP'S
A culinary icon, John Bishop continues to personally provide for his happy charges in a dining room that still looks crisp, youthful and elegant after 22 years. This is where the culinary buzzwords of local, regional, seasonal, organic and sustainable took root in Vancouver, and where many of the chefs and front-of-house heroes cut their teeth (Vij’s Vikram Vij, Mission Hill’s Michael Allemeier and Aurora Bistro’s Jeff Van Geest are alumni). Menus change weekly to reflect the dictates of the seasons, but jump on the hot spot prawn consommé with superb prawn and ginger wontons, and the smoked sablefish steamed with truffled brandade cake and a subtly spiced herb horseradish sabayon. Desserts are consistently impressive. The service team, led by maitre’d Abel Jacinto, is tops, and the wine list is an argument for Cascadian independence. 2183 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-738-2025. $$$$

BISTROT BISTRO
This new casual, affordable, and refreshingly airy French bistro brought to us by French imports Valerie and Laurent Devin starts with a simple, well-executed, country-style menu (that wallows in the rich and the savoury) and ends with a delightful wine list that sees every bottle available by the glass. The slow-cooked boeuf bourguignon ($17), pearl onion and mustard sauce pork loin ($17) sizzling sexily in its own skillet, and smooth chicken liver terrines ($7) sided with ratatouille ($4) and gratin dauphinois ($4) make for a simple wintry retreat from Kits’ hipster hegemony. Every neighbourhood needs a bistro like this. 1961 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-0004. $$-$$$

BISTRO PASTIS
French classics touch nouvelle west coast, creating un bon surprise. Convivial host John Blakely distils great French bistro food and drink sans the Gallic shrug. The result: a nifty endive and Roquefort salad ($14.50) or crisped sweetbreads with mushroom angolotti ($18). The kitchen shows a light hand with fish, but gets lusty with winter braises. A thoughtful wine list shows some well-priced Bordeaux occasion vintages. A perennial Vancouver Restaurant Awards winner. 2153 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-731-5020. $$$

CAFE ZEN
Pages and pages of brunch items on this menu include every imaginable medley of omelet and Benedict (except Arnold), plus many vegetarian options. The food is of the lowbrow diner variety—the Lycra-clad Kits crowd comes here to dish on last night’s revelry rather than to revel in the dishes. Zen is a longtime neighbourhood favourite—expect long lineups on weekends, but know that service is speedy. 1631 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-731-4018. $

DHARMA KITCHEN
Walk too quickly, and you might miss the understated storefront on this block of Broadway. It’s likely intentional: a kitchen serving “the food of mindfulness” should be quiet in its appearance, though bold on the plate. The menu items are deceptively simply titled—red curry tofu, lemongrass tofu—and yet this isn’t some bland vegan fare. The lemongrass version ($9.95) is a delight: grated lemongrass, spices and herbs served with steamed broccoli and jasmine rice is one of the most flavourful tofu dishes we’ve ever sampled—and there have been many. Salads are meals unto themselves: try the Dharma ($6.95), a bed of romaine lettuce heaped with grilled artichoke hearts, eggplants, mushrooms, red onions, sweet peppers, zucchinis and sundried tomatoes. Service is pleasant and swift, as is takeout—ideal for an evening beach dinner. No liquor. 3667 W. Broadway Ave., Kitsilano, 604-738-3899. $

EAST IS EAST
Kitsilano’s tiny East is East, now with a new location on Main Street, offers exotic organic flavours from Istanbul to Calcutta. The sparsely lit dining room takes patrons to the Middle East, complete with the spiced chai, flickering candles and soothing (if you think so) sitar. Feast on roasted masala chicken roti-roll, with tamarind and lentil soup ($8.50), washed down with creamy yogurt lassie drinks flavoured with fresh mango, cardamom and rosewater ($4.50). A takeout window offers the entire menu to go. At the Kitsilano location, upstairs Chai Gallery is available for private parties, and hosts live music and dancing most nights. 3243 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-734-5881; 4413 Main St., South Main, 604-879-2020. $

FEENIE'S
The ceramic floor tiles and bamboo tabletops don’t rival the quiet coddling next door at Lumière, but you’ve gotta love a celebrity chef who retains the humility to offer Feenie’s Weenie ($9 for cheese smokie with tart sauerkraut and juicy lardons). Stick to the right side of the menu where Rob’s Favourites—from a Peking duck clubhouse ($15) to a short-rib beef dip ($16) or a calamari sandwich ($14) that winks at its po’ boy cousin—are cheeky deconstructions of upscale casual staples. Impeccably correct curds and gravy (is that a touch of tomato sweetness?) are negated by the fact that the poutine ($9) is—quelle horreur!—baked. 2563 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-7115. $$-$$$

FICTION
Kits stalwart for martinis, cocktails, wine sipping, or an evening of whiskey sampling. Stick to share plates like yam fries with chipotle aïoli ($7), camembert and artichoke dip ($13) or pizzas topped with barbecue chicken or caramelized onion and bacon ($15). The stacked burger ($16) with bacon, mushroom, cheddar and onion mayo is good, but other mains need attention. The paella ($18) is bland, but the steak frites with stilton red wine jus ($18) is worthy. Finish with a cheese plate ($24) with daily variations. 3162 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-736-7576. $$

THE FLYING TIGER
James Iranzad and Mark Durland, the Kits-focussed duo, have completely redone the tired Living Room space on Fourth Avenue. The feel is darker and younger with plenty of Pan-Asian motifs. To wrangle the concept of Asian street food, they’ve brought in the very talented Tina Fineza (ex-George and Bins) to consult, with palate-kicking results. Bold flavours abound in the 24-hour marinated kalba Korean ribs and the Filipino-style pork belly redolent of garlic, soy, cane vinegar and star anise. Don’t leave until you’ve tried the hawker-style street noodles: crispy chicken, squid, prawns in spicy nam prik pao and oyster sauce. The list of sakes and sojus is excellent, but the cocktails are entry level. Short wine list full of food friendly off-dry whites. Scroll of Asian beers superb. 2958 W. 4th Ave, Kitsilano, 604-736-4426. $$

FUEL
Tom Doughty and Robert Belcham (both formerly of C and Nu) have built a sexy spot in Kits, a favourite lunch haunt for the west side’s yummy mums. The exposed kitchen lets you view all the action as seasonal dishes—like seared Pacific scallops with musk melon and heirloom tomato ($17.5) or Polderside Farms Redbro organic chicken confit leg and poached breast with sorrel potato puree ($30)—are prepped. Expert wine pairings with every dish. 1944 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-288-7905. $$$

GASTROPOD
Gastropod (from gastropoda, the scientific name for several species of snail) took home the gold for Best New Restaurant of the Year at Vancouver magazine’s annual restaurant awards (plus the silver in the Best Design category). Young art school grad and owner/chef Angus An was trained in New York at Jean Georges’ sleek JoJo and Montréal’s Restaurant Toqué before returning home to his native Vancouver where, together with his partner, Kate Auewattanakorn, he serves modern, well-considered, and French-backboned quality in a stark and sexy room that achieves cool in summer and warm in winter. The menus change with the seasons, but perennial must-tries include wild salmon “a la Gastropod” with its unique wasabi sabayon ($25), and the oysters washed in sauternes jelly and then sprinkled with horseradish “snow” ($13). 1938 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-5579. $$$

THE GRAMMERY GRILL
Chef Dennis Huang (ex-Ordinary Café) is now in charge of the kitchen. His confidence underscores a creative, diverse menu in beef carpaccio with truffle aïoli ($10) Owner Susan Lewandoski is welcoming and Trevor Herbert lives up to his 2004 Vancouver magazine award for Bartender of the Year. Join the regulars for hockey or football on the new big-screen; quality weekend brunches as well. Lunch also served. 2685 Arbutus St., Kitsilano, 604-730-5666. $$-$$$

HAPA IZAKAYA
Hapa blends casual Canada and young Tokyo to a soundtrack as modern and loud as the dark, super-cool room. Young, homesick ESL students and local foodies seek out and share homerun Japatapas like the negitoro, sweet with spring onions mixed with roughly chopped tuna belly. Addictive Japanese pumpkin dip is served with crackers. Must haves include the ika, a grilled whole squid marinated in garlic teriyaki. The drinks list is fine, and the quality of the food hasn’t wobbled since expansion and back of house desertions. Owners Lea and Justin Ault have hired the very competent Atsuo Nomura (ex-Bistro Sakana, Yuji’s) to replace Takahiro Toyoshige. 1479 Robson St., West End, 604-689-4272, 1516 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-738-4272. $$

HELL'S KITCHEN
This Kits favourite, popular with the kids, is an unpretentious late-night hangout that will bring you back the next morning for brunch. Pizza is a specialty—create your own or do a “green monster” with spinach, tomato, pine nuts and garlic ($17.95). Lots of appies are worth sharing—try Hell’s Poutine ($9.95), tuna sashimi ($10.95) or yam fries ($5.95). Entrées range from Hell’s Kitchen curry ($10.95 for vegetarian, $14.95 for chicken and prawns ) to rum and coke ribs ($21.95) and if the cocktails got the best of you, refuel the next day with a variety of eggs Benny. 2041 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-736-4355. $$

INCENDIO
This Burrard Street ristorante’s location is its greatest asset and its greatest curse. Attached to the arty Fifth Avenue Cinema, it’s a shoo-in for a pre-movie bite, but off the culinary screen on its own. Shame because wood-fired pies such as the kooky Ukrainian Angst ($14.99/23.99) with crushed tomato, potato, garlic and rosemary are very good. Less well known, but equally superb are the daily meat and fish specials (at the elusive “market price”), which are also fired. The serviceable, well-priced wine list has some outright steals, such as the bracing Gazela Vinho Verde at $28. There is a sister location in Gastown where patrons are less likely to hold forth on Woody Allen. 2118 Burrard St., Kitsilano, 604-736-2220; 103 Columbia, Gastown, 604-688-8694. $$

INDIA GRILL
Tandoori dishes are the foundation here, but there are plenty of other options. Delicious samosas ($3.25-$3.99), pakoras ($5.99-$6.99) and onion bhajia ($5.99) will get you started, butter chicken—tender and fragrant, served with naan and aromatic rice ($13.99)—is a safe bet as an entrée. Choose from a nice selection of imported Indian beers—we suggest the Cheetah—to round out the meal. Delivery available. 1835 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-5777. $-$$

JOLLY'S INDIAN BISTRO
Owner Jolly Kumar serves dhabas (street café)-style dishes inspired by his northern Indian upbringing at his namesake bistro. Start with the alu ki tikki (potato patties served with, chutney) or the homemade chicken sausage kebabs. All main dishes ($10 or less) come with fresh naan bread (a Frisbee-size portion), rice and salad with tangy mango dressing; choose from 12 different curries, including the creamy New Delhi shahi paneer (Indian cottage cheese). Over half of the menu items cater to vegetarians or vegans, and students love the $10 butter chicken and beer special. Cute little patio, too. 2778 W. 4th Ave, Kitsilano, 604-730-6929. $

KARV
Housed in the troubled Kits space at Yew and 1st (formerly Adesso Bistro, Saltimbocca, and Yew First), KaRV is the brainchild of a young threesome of laid-back surfer-types who dress the part—and the party. Newly constructed bar and a handful of hockey-ready flat screens set up a neighbourhood hangout, and so what if the upbeat, hip-hop soundtrack wards off Harperites. Menu a roll out of basics on the cheap: try fish tacos of spice-rubbed tilapia with chipotle cream and citrus slaw. In summer, the wraparound patio boasts swell sightlines by day (droves of lithe, sand-bound lookers en route to Kits Beach)—evenings are improved by six cold brews on tap. 2201 W. 1st Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-0900. $$

LAS MARGARITAS
Find line ups out the door almost every night at this Kits institution, where dishes hail from Northern Mexico and the Baja. Rounding out the usual gringo faves (enchiladas, tacos, burritos, fajitas) are more refined options like the pollo borracho: chicken marinated in lime juice, tequila, triple sec and cilantro, grilled, then topped with guajillo chile sauce, served with house salad and black beans ($13.25). In fine weather, the patio is great for people watching and chilling with a cervesa or three. 1999 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-7117. $$

LUMIERE
This culinary becon, at one time arguably Canada’s finest restaurant, has seen its light dim somewhat this year. An ownership tug-of-war led to staff changes, and Iron Chef Rob Feenie now has a 28-year-old understudy, Dale MacKay. A Gordon Ramsay product from New York, MacKay is less intuitive with local products, and the level of excellence in the kitchen has slipped a notch. The crowd has changed, too: fewer dining enthusiasts, more Howe Street parvenus. The three tasting menus remain crisply choreographed—there is no à la carte. Expect them to change as MacKay institutes a more vestigial sensibility. Lumière’s Tasting Bar, just inside the main entrance, offers affordable à la carte, including a Rob Feenie classic: a ridiculously seductive plate of butternut squash ravioli with a silky truffle butter sauce. The bar is a credit: classic muddles, flips, slings and arrows. 2551 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-8185. $$-$$$$

MARIA'S TAVERNA
Maria’s Taverna is the most classic version of Greek eateries we have come to expect in Vancouver—the menu features the usual superfluous baked pasta and pizza options (ah, the Greek classics), the red wine is always served way too warm and everybody seems to be enjoying themselves, regardless. And while the menu is stock, even such basics as chicken souvlaki ($14.95) and saganaki ($7.50) are better than the competition and the braised shoulder of lamb is terrific. Ask, no beg, them to turn down the Greek techno music and you’ll have a fine time. 2324 W. 4th, Kitsilano, 604-731-4722. $$

MASA'S A LA CARTE
This West Fourth eatery shares its name with the sushi temple in New York known for its $500-a-plate meals. In contrast, Vancouver’s Masa al la Carte’s has a hodge podge menu which features both quesadillas ($6.25) and gomaae ($3.95) (ah, the sublime confluence of Mexican and Japanese cuisines). And while we won’t opine on which establishment would win a head to head sashimi contest, we do know that you could likely eat here for a month for the cost of one visit to the New York version and there is a refreshing lack of pretense and a friendly staff in the Van version. 3689 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-3689. $-$$

MISTRAL
Mistral is husband-and-wife team Minna and Jean-Yves Benoit’s accessible Provençal bistro, its food writ big on chalk boards and flavour. To begin, a trifecta of Mediterranean black olive spread, purée of creamed cod and anchovy-garlic dipping sauce. Benoit, Michelin-starred in his native France, features a pissaladière as thin as those eating it, but as characterful, too—it’s neatly groomed with caramelized onions, anchovies and olives. The daube d’agneau in red wine with Marseillaise-style chick-pea cakes puts paid to rainy autumn nights. An artful, if brief, wine list highlights the South of France and British Columbia; a small patio runs the gauntlet of busy West Broadway. 2585 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-733-0046. $$-$$$

MODERNE BURGER
“Best burger in town”—it’s a claim trumpeted by every pub, greasy spoon, and family restaurant in the city, not to mention the backyard barbecuer with a top secret family recipe. (Lemme guess, he puts cheese whiz in there, no wait, a half can of Bud Light?) They might be tasty, but they’re not the best; Moderne Burger is the best. They’ve got the B.C. burger brain trust working day and night optimizing juiciness, texture, and flavour. Burgers (steak, lamb, turkey, veggie, and salmon), fries and shakes are all they sell and business is good—they’re about to complete an expansion of their slick ’50s-syle Kitsilano space. 2507 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-0005. $

MOXIE'S
When you’re dealing with an indecisive group, Moxie’s is an okay bet. The wide-ranging menu, lengthier than any of its casual chain competitors, has everything from clubhouse sandwiches ($9.99) and chicken wings ($9.99) to cookie-cutter fusion like Szechwan green beans ($7.99) and Tandoori chicken pizza ($12.99). The location near GM Place is popular for pre-game nosh, while the patio on Denman is prime real estate for people watching. Now with 51 locations across Western Canada. 1759 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-678-9973; 1160 Davie St., West End, 604-678-8043; 808 Bute St., West End, 604-696-9986; 180 W. Georgia St. Downtown, 604-684-8434. $$-$$$

THE NAAM
This vegetarian institution hasn’t changed much over the years and the lineups during peak hours indicate that’s a good thing. The atmosphere and service are as relaxed as ever and wholesome food is still served 24/7. Quesadillas ($7.95) and the dragon bowls ($9.50-$10.50) are perennial favourites, but vegan entrées, macrobiotic dishes, and a respectable selection of desserts are also popular among the Kitsilano set. 2724 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604- 738-715. $-$$

NAT'S NEW YORK PIZZERIA
The authenticating stamp for any self-respecting pizza joint is Italian lineage by way of New York. And so it is with Nat and Franco Bastone’s west side institution, which opened on West Broadway in 1991 (a West End location opened in 2000) after the brothers visited their Big Apple cousins to learn the family’s 100-year-old pizzamaking secrets. This being Vancouver, popular pies lean toward the veggie side—Pesto Artichoke, Tomato Onion Salad, “The 5th Avenue” (spinach, tomatoes, sweet onions and feta)—with a variety of pastas and heros rounding out the menu. As cheesy as the New York-inspired artwork might be—a photo of the Brooklyn Bridge, paintings of checkered cabs and David Letterman—the thinly-crusted, thickly-dressed pizzas are the real deal. 2684 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 603-737-0707; 1080 Denman St., West End, 604-642-0777. $

9TH AVENUE GRILL
For all the Vancouverites who claim to skip breakfast, there’s a preponderance of all-day egg-’n’-bacon joints in town. This family-run operation, on the border of Kits and South Granville, has a faithful following who are willing to shell out a little extra for homemade, high-quality ingredients. While there’s a somewhat-passé emphasis on low-carb options (like an English-muffinless Benny: why bother?), you can’t go wrong with the 9th Avenue Omelette Special (bacon, sausage, zucchini, mushrooms, eggplant, green onions, diced tomatoes and feta), and the locally roasted coffee always clears the Sunday fog. 1822 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-714-0744. $

THE NOODLE BOX
A recent import from Victoria, this South-East Asian noodle house hips it up with high ceilings, cool music and a straightforward, one-dimensional food concept: fast, flavour-forward noodles served in classic Chinese takeout boxes. The soy and ginger-washed egg noodles with crushed cashews and prawns (Thai chow mein) is just one of many variations. Stay in or take away, you’ll likely return even if the wok-handlers failed remedial spice school: medium means incandescent here. Counter service is stroller-friendly. 1867 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-1310. $$

OCTOPUS' GARDEN
With hundreds of Japanese restaurants in Vancouver and the internationally celebrated Tojo’s just a few miles away, why The Garden? First, no dour cut-man is head chef Sada San; his humour lights up his bar in dishes entitled Yellow Submarine (a roll of mango, yellowtail, tobiko and tempura—with telescope) and Lobster on Vacation, served both steamed, and also encased in barely-there tempura. The omakase menu of kaiseki dishes, which changes daily, is masterfully delivered; more conventional tuna sashimi, sunomono salads and uni sushi are also amongst the city’s freshest. Don’t miss the double hit of stinking rose in Spicy Garlic Mountain: stir-fried udon with garlic shoots and chilies, topped with deep-fried garlic cloves. The perfect antidote: the sterling selection of artisanal sakes. 1995 Cornwall Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-8971. $$-$$$

OSAKA TEPPANYAKI
Will teppanyaki enjoy an ironic, fondue-like comeback? Until that happens, Osaka is perfect for those holdouts who associate Japanese food with fried meat. But like fondue, teppanyaki is fun—especially if you are expansive enough to order the Osaka special with its cavalcade of flesh “from the sky to deep ocean” ($49.95). Or opt for the more traditional filetmignon ($28.25), helpfully conjugated into a single word—in case you’re in a hurry. A “retro” Japanese experience. 102-1788 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-733-8258. $$$-$$$$

OUZERI
Bustling Broadway destination houses an extensive selection of Greek tapas that require an Acropolis-sized appetite. Lemon-seared saganaki ($9.50) and signature char-grilled lamb chops for two ($12.95) are meals unto themselves. The pace gets frenetic on the weekends, when the tsantalis flows and locals clamour for seats to gorge on generous portions of slow-roasted lamb ($15.95) and lamb souvlaki ($14.95). When it’s available, Mama’s homemade baklava ($5.95) is not to be missed. 3189 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-739-9378. $$

PLANET VEG
To thine own self be true is not a motto likely to grace the doorway of the latest Yaletown hotspot, but it should be hung above Planet Veg’s doorway. Grab a heaping masala roll with chickpeas and eggplant or Kathmandu roll with cabbage and fried noodles ($5.19), both overflowing with veggie goodness, and head to the beach for a guilt-free picnic. The prices are absurdly low for such quality fresh fare. 1941 Cornwall Ave, Kitsilano, 604-734-1001. $

PRESTO CUCINA
Middle-of-the-road pizzeria chainlet features broad selection of passable pies and generous-to-a-fault pasta platters made family friendly. The massive “old country” meat lasagna ($12.99) is baked and fattened up with ricotta, mozzarella and cottage cheese, requiring access to a defibrillator. The killer fettucine Alfredo comes with tender chicken (lunch $10.99, dinner $13.99) and sees a Lululemon-clad lunch crowd guilt-prepping for the evening jog. Go easy on the little soft, hot and perfectly seasoned breadsticks as you’ll want to make room for the crème brûlée cheesecake ($6.99). Takeout and delivery service is quick and easy. 2272 W. 4th Ave, Kitsilano, 604-731-7222; 1746 Marine Dr., West Van, 604-925-2229. $$

QUATTRO ON FOURTH
While some of Vancouver’s esteemed Italian eateries have been running on fumes for years, Kitsilano’s Quattro’s on Fourth always manages to seem innovative and fresh. Credit the able and youthful owner, Patrick Corsi, and an airy and light room that happily steers clear of faux Tuscan theme. The food likewise injects subtle innovation without ever forsaking its old country roots—to wit, an inspired ravioli piedmontesi with wild mushrooms, mascarpone and a thankfully appropriate use of white truffle oil ($23.95). The branzino alla crosta is a deft preparation of Alaskan black cod crusted with pistachios ($32.95). These dishes are backed up by a stellar, if pricey, wine list which includes such finds as multiple vintages of brancaia or full verticals of the vowel heavy triumvirate: ornellaia, tignanello and solaia. 2611 West 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-4444. $$$

SEJUICED
This earnest little Fourth Avenue juice bar just predates the current smoothie frenzy and its maturity shows. Its thoughtful array of fresh juices with handles such as the Zinger and the slightly ominous Liver Mover (12oz $4.00/16oz $4.50) are served by a smiling staff, genuinely concerned about the woeful state of your health. A modest vegetarian menu complements with faithful grilled sandwich with cheese ($4.60)—which we trust is healthier than a grilled cheese sandwich. We left as healthier, more conscientious human beings. 1958 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-730-9906. $

SHIJO
Certainly in the first rank of the city’s Japanese restaurants. Begin with a sunomono salad, then move to grilled miso oysters or gyoza. The sushi is first-rate, the foilyaki mushrooms piquant counterpoints. Try the brown rice sushi, and whatever is on the fresh sheet. 1926 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-4676. $$$-$$$$

SLIM'Z SMOKE BARBEQUE AND STEAKHOUSE
Smoldering blues riffs permeate the air and murals of jazz greats decorate this shrine to the South. Start with the the jalapeño and jack cheese-stuffed Broadway Bullets ($6.25), before taking down something slow-smoked. Baby-got-back-ribz ($18.95), slathered in their signature sauce is the big winner; the barbecue smoked duck ($15.95) a close second. Cheap drink specials lure the university crowd; entire menu is available to go. 2884 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-733-3002. $$

THE SMOKING DOG BISTRO
Smartly, the Smoking Dog’s new owners, Jean Séguin and Judith Andrews, have bolstered the wine list, kept the classics but freshened the menu. The result: a full house most nights for accessible French cooking and live jazz every Friday and Saturday nights. Find the classic mimosa salad ($7), onion soup ($8) and very good pepper steak frites ($31). And what’s this—some of the better pastas in town in a French bistro? Also try the generously upholstered lamb shank, braised long and low in a red wine with juniper berries. Both are priced in the teens. 1889 W. 1st Ave., Kitsilano, 604-732-8811. $$-$$$

TACO SHACK
Do one thing very well is Gerald Tritt’s mantra. He’s already proven that concept at Vera’s (“You can’t beat Vera’s meat”) and now, with partner Daved Benefield, they’re tackling tacos in a regifted Vera’s location on the Cornwall cheap-eats strip. They’re simple, reasonably authentic (the salsas, guacamole and crema are fresh and assured) and available in Baja fish, pulled pork and beef versions. We like them just fine—convenient, quick food on the right side of the street. 1935 Cornwall Ave., Kitsilano, 778-239-5102. $

TOMATO FRESH FOOD CAFE
Fresh, new premises on West Broadway deliver chef James Campbell and owner Christian Gaudreault’s value-rich menus. Follow first-rate ingredients out of the fields and into starters of well-made soups and organic baby green salads; beef tenderloin from the Nicola Valley and free-run tarragon chicken and pea-shoot risotto with grilled scallops are excellent. Quality breakfasts, and the lunchtime hand-cut turkey sandwich with fresh cranberry sauce is worth the journey. Very well priced; fetching beer and wine lists. 2486 Bayswater St., Kitsilano, 604-874-6020. $$

TOPANGA CAFE
This Kitsilano institution’s theme song should be “La Grange” by ZZ Top. The small room is touchingly careworn in the best, most authentic sense of the word. The place is always packed, the beer ice cold and while such classic standbys as carne nortena ($13.95) and chile relleno ($11.45) will likely never inspire they will also never disappoint. When a place has been around since eight years BE (Before Expo) you know they are doing something right. Take-out available. 2904 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-733-3713.

TRAFALGAR'S BISTRO
The set design—forest green awnings, butter-coloured walls, oak woodwork, glowing leaded glass—is so adorably picturesque you expect Meg Ryan and Tom Hanks at the next table. Instead, at brunch you’ll find hip mommies, old friends and neighbourhood denizens nibbling modern bistro fare: cardamom-infused French toast ($15), juicy lamb burgers and frites with signature truffle aïoli ($16). At dinner, appetizers like lamb chops on a goat cheese croquette ($16) show the same careful flourishes. A four-page dessert menu, courtesy of the restaurateurs’ next door bakery, Sweet Obsessions, does the same skip between refined elegance (light, creamy lemon dacquoise) and dishy comfort (decadent chocolate hedgehog cake). 2603 W. 16th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-739-0555. $$-$$$

TRANSYLVANIA FLAVOUR
This home-style European restaurant, in a new location on Broadway near Arbutus, is a welcome alternative to West Coast mantra. Lunch includes a selection of salads such as yam ($8) or spinach with beets and feta ($8), as well as kielbasa on a pretzel bun ($9) and plates of chicken or pork schnitzel ($10). The dinner menu expands to include entrées like walnut-coated trout ($18) and chicken paprikash ($18). The house-made perogies ($10), filled with smoked gouda, yam and caraway, are delicious. The room is appealingly old-fashioned and service friendly. 2120 W. Broadway, Kitsilano, 604-730-0880. $-$$

YEW YORK
Years ago a gypsy woman cursed the corner of Yew and York in Kitsilano vowing that on that land no business shall grow. How else to rationalize the fact that no restaurant can survive in this seemingly great location? Yew York is the latest challenger to seek to make right this maligned real estate and their recipe appears simple—throw everything but the kitchen sink on the menu and surely something will catch. The menu features dry ribs ($9), chicken wings ($9), and phyllo-wrapped prawns stuffed with cream cheese and roasted garlic ($12.50). Stick with the pints and their logical accompaniments, such as the garlic frites ($7), and you’ll be happy. 1602 Yew St., Kitsilano, 604-730-8870. $$

YUJI'S JAPANESE TAPAS
In this spare, modern room, Chef Yuji Otsuka subverts conventional expectations of izakaya dining as a boisterous affair. The vibe is decidedly low-key, the menu is adventurous, and the service is friendly and attentive. Sweet potato tempura sticks are a favourite with the regulars: lightly battered and crisp fried with curry mayo and spicy ketchup for dipping. Maguro mari-ne features chunks of albacore tuna served in three separate marinades of spicy chili, sesame and yuzu citrus. Keep an eye on the specials sheet for dishes like panko-encrusted halibut cheeks wrapped in bacon and served with spicy tomato and tartar sauce. Cleanse your palate with a simple dish of floral yuzu sorbet. 2059 W. 4th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-734-4990. $$-$$$

ZEST
Japanese Cuisine Reservations are a must—with a dearth of restaurants along the West 16th corridor, evenings often find Zest filled to capacity with well-heeled west-siders and Japanese expats. The understated, serene aesthetic marries spare Japanese elegance with organic west coast elements. Menu items are a mix of the traditional and the adventurous, and presentation is decidedly modern. Soba crab rolls are a nori-wrapped combination of crisped buckwheat noodles and crab meat, deep fried and served in softly flavoured broth. Sablefish (yuan zuke) is grilled and infused with an aromatic yuzu sauce, and the tender chunks of chicken karaage are a must-order item. 2775 W. 16th Ave., Kitsilano, 604-731-9378 $-$$

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