North Vancouver

THE ARM'S REACH BISTRO
The Arm’s Reach is a local favourite—a casual, family- and wallet-friendly dining room that knows how to party on weekend evenings, even if it’s only slightly more studious on school nights. There’s an excellent brunch—the “fruit bomb” with honey granola and yogurt ($5) or the weekend Benny ($9) at portions that will keep you fuelled for the day. Lunch and dinner salads include a tasty Chad salad with greens, blueberries, tomatoes, goat cheese, and cashews ($9) and a memorable Erick’s Chocy Caesar ($7). The seafood linguini has just enough spice to please, or try the tender butter chicken over jasmine rice ($12). The small but well-chosen wine list and friendly service keep this bistro busy year-round. INFORMAL. 4390 Gallant Ave., Deep Cove, 604-929-7442. $$

BALI HOUSE
Folk Festival goers are familiar with Anak Agung’s Indonesian fare: her Bali House concession has been a fixture there for the past 24 years, yet her North Vancouver restaurant on a rush-by stretch of road is but a year old. It’s a family affair with mom at the helm in the kitchen while father, son, and daughter run the front-of-house. The thoughtful, concise menu features traditional Indonesian favourites. Try the rending sapi, slow-simmered sirloin laced with coconut milk that packs a deep, rich heat. Nasi goring ayam is another menu standout, Indonesian-style chicken fried rice served with prawn crackers and spicy pickles. OTHER ASIAN. 1560 Main St., 604-988-1300. $-$$

LE BISTRO CHEZ MICHEL
Terrific bistro food from owner Phillipe Segur Start with escargot or frogs legs Niçoise, or deal your dining partner into the calamari basque and do some business. Then there’s the bouillabaisse in a rich lobster broth laced with saffron and Pernod, the Fraser Valley rabbit dijonnaise, and the free-range chicken in a classically rendered coq au vin. Gallic mystery revealed: chef Lassaga comes from the Basque country, his sous from Nice. Wine pairings are also offered: three generous pours for $19. FRENCH. 224 W. Esplanade, 604-924-4913. $$-$$$

BRAVO CUCINA
Begin with simple dishes of scallops in a sundried tomato coulis ($9.95), and prawns with fresh basil and capers ($9.95). Then, twirl strands of fettucine in a rich blue cheese and radicchio cream sauce ($14.95). Or choose from mains of veal scallopine with mushrooms ($19.95) and red snapper with tomatoes, capers, and black olives ($19.95). House made desserts, like the standard tiramisu ($7.50), are decent and a sweet finish to the meal. ITALIAN. 1209 Lonsdale Ave., 604-985-3006. $$-$$$

BELLA CANDELA
Local artwork is the backdrop for this elevated casual diner in North Vancouver, where pizza and pasta are staples. The “Westcoast Tree Hugger” pizza is loaded with spinach, artichokes, onions, sundried-tomatoes and brie ($17.99), while the farfalle Manhattan features bowtie pasta in a rose sauce with chorizo, mushroom and spinach ($12.99). Find Latin influences from co-owner Alvaro Peralta in his house specialty of “Candela Ceviche” ($7.99). Service is friendly and helpful, and there’s often a late-night crowd on the weekends. INFORMAL. 109 W. Esplanade, 604-983-3636. $$

BURGOO
The excellent, gut-sticking stews and flavourful soups of West Point Grey’s Burgoo came to lower Lonsdale (and there was much rejoicing). Scan the wide-ranging menu of comfort foods from the wine-heavy beef bourguignon, redolent of button mushrooms and pearl onions poured over a mound of garlicky mashed potatoes, to the evenly spiced jerk chicken with sweet peppers on brown rice. This is studious fare that goes hand in hand with your all-night pre-exam cram or while researching a thesis on The Louisiana Purchase. It’s a bargain, too: nary a plate exceeds the $15 mark. 4434 W. 10th Ave., West Point Grey, 604-221-7839; 3 Lonsdale Ave., 604-904-0933. $$

LA CUCINA
Wholesome Italian served in a warm trattoria with a pleasant outside patio covered by a grapevined pergola. Clean flavours are revealed in best-quality parmesan on see-through carpaccio, a handful of capers and swirls of mustard sauce. Roast lamb sirloin au jus is aromatic and delectable, just like Sunday dinner. ITALIAN. 1509 Marine Dr., 604-986-1334. $$$
The Edge Bistro The room is small and intimate, but the menu roams wide with starters like Village Salad with scallops and red pepper atop romaine lettuce ($11), crab cakes ($ 15), and garlic brie ($7). Pasta features the usual suspects (penne arrabiata, spaghetti vongole); meat and fish dishes (chef’s specials) get a bit more inventive: try the veal medallions and figs ($22) or boneless quail ($19). ITALIAN. 3135 Edgemont Blvd., 604-985-9125. $$

DEUCE
Visiting this second effort from the folks that brought you Capones feels a little like dating the Homecoming Queen’s sister—some similarities, but ultimately not as satisfying. They’ve got a terrific concept (small plates suitable for sharing) and modern décor, but the menu is hit and miss. Skip the crab fritters (a heavy mess even before they are slathered in a thick fontina and farmhouse cheddar sauce that obscures the delicate Dungeness crab) and go for the bottle rockets—spicy prawn pouches on a stick with gingered honey and lime ($10). Diverse cocktail list features some intriguing selections, the manliest of which is a sturdy bourbon based concoction with an unfortunate name—the Southern Belle, $9—that may prevent guys from actually ordering it. With a few tweaks this is a room we will grow to love. INFORMAL. 1617 Lonsdale Ave., 604-988-8180. $$

GUSTO DI QUATTRO
Now home to executive chef Carol Chow (ex-Bishop’s, Hart House), the North Shore arm of the Corsi family’s Quattro group seems to be getting better with age. Expect fairly priced and thoughtful appetizers that can border on the rapturously intense. A trio of bruschetta, $9/person (three with goat’s cheese, figs, and truffle oil, please!) and red pepper soup ($8.95) lead into dependable main courses, some with portion sizes that would befuddle weight watchers (no demerit there). Pastas are consistently excellent—the house-made Sicilian meatballs ($20.95) certainly so—as is the service. The wine list might well be the best on the North Shore with Italy well represented and several offered by the glass. ITALIAN. 1 Lonsdale Ave., 604-924-4444. $$-$$$

HONEY DOUGHNUTS AND GOODIES
Maple, chocolate or plain, Honey’s soft and chewy cake doughnuts are a Deep Cove institution. Made in small batches throughout the day, the line-up is long but quick. Gargantuan sandwiches, quality meats and cheeses stuffed between slices of homemade potato bread. Two express outlets next door serve soups and sandwiches and great gelato. Look for a casual dining space to open next door sometime in winter. INFORMAL. 4373 Gallant Ave., Deep Cove, 604-929-4988. $

JAGERHOF SCHNITZEL HOUSE
Alex Doubrava and Mike Von Lokvenz’s 28-year-old Jagerhof is an institution on the North Shore. The two Czech imports (Von Lokvenz is a Sudeten German) take turns plating 18 inexpensive versions of pork tenderloin schnitzel served with potato or spaetzle and red cabbage (try the cordon bleu stuffed with ham and melted cheese) and other staples like the Debrecziner, a spicy Hungarian sausage with pungent sauerkraut. A selection of German and Czech beers adds further authenticity, but it’s the stuffed game birds, wild boar heads, and stag antlers nailed to the walls alongside portraits of Franz Josef and the Kaiser that make the Jagerhof an escape not just from the ordinary but the contemporary as well. EASTERN EUROPEAN. 71 Lonsdale Ave., 604-980-4316. $$

KYUNG BOK GOONG
This upmarket, understated room with tasteful Korean art spared no expense on decor, and its spotless interior is the perfect venue for the high-quality, well-prepared food. The must-have dish? Beef lip—and we’re glad you asked. Lightly spiced with three main ingredients—soy sauce, chili, and garlic—it melts away, and comes with all the fixings and two kinds of kimchi. The sliced and steamed pork with daikon kimchi wrap isn’t nearly as good, but their stir-fried Korean octopus (small and tender) with vegetables in a hot and spicy chili sauce brings the pow factor right back. KOREAN. 143 W. 3rd St., 604-987-9133. $$$

MEMPHIS BLUES
Vegetarian alert. Memphis Blues’ pulled pork on soft buns are worthy of double parking. The meat-heavy menu, which also features catfish, sausage, brisket and Cornish game hen, is the best (and messiest) barbecue in town. Saddle up to the signature pulled pork sandwich ($7.95) with smoky beans, peppery slaw on a soft white bun for a truly authentic southern experience. The new Priscilla platter features all the meat, plus oysters, shrimp and catfish, and serves 10 ($120). A short, excellent wine and beer list points into the spice and smoke. 1465 W. Broadway, South Granville, 604-738-6806; 1342 Commercial Dr., 604-215-2599; 1629 Lonsdale Ave., North Van, 604-929-3699. $-$$

MOUSTACHE CAFE
Chef/owner Geoff Lundholm pops his head out from the kitchen to check on diners—service is well-paced and interactive without being intrusive. Lunch is served Tuesday to Friday and there’s weekend brunch. Menu changes seasonally; mains include grilled ribeye with garlic mashed potatoes or seared wild salmon with saffron basmati. Save room for the finale—our favourite’s been dark chocolate crème brûlée. A well-designed wine list is continually expanding. Their new location includes an additional wine bar, a lounge, and a private dining room. FRENCH. 129 W. 2nd St., 604-987-8461. $$-$$$

MYTHOS
Genial owner Angelo Angelopoulos has been presiding for over 15 years at this cheery local favourite. His loyal clientele swear by the subtle spicing of his dips, from the feta pâté ($6.75) to the silky tarama ($6.25). The house specialty roast lamb is a consistent winner ($17.95) but diners could do well to order the off-menu clay pot lamb shank that comes flavoured with bay leaves, fresh tomato, and Dijon ($19.95). For full on gorging, opt for “The Symposium,” three generous courses ($26/person). GREEK. 1811 Lonsdale Ave., 604-984-7411. $$

PASPAROS TAVERNA
There are reasons why this restaurant has been around for decades—their succulent roast lamb and the generous portions of authentic Greek cuisine that keep North Shorers returning. Share some appies such as the tender grilled octopus ($9), calamari ($9), hummus ($7), or saganaki ($8), and don’t miss the roast lamb ($15.95). If you have an appetite, the platters for two will please: roast lamb, moussaka, deep-fried calamari, dolmathes, and spinach pie with vegetables, pita, satziki, and Greek salad, all for $45. GREEK. 132 W. 3rd St., 604-980-0331. $$-$$$

SOUTH CASTLE
Traditional Korean home-style cooking is the theme in this minimal room. Favourites include the hot pots ($9.99) and seafood noodles ($7.99) Groups of four can dine for $59.99 with courses including salad, tofu with kimchi, the seafood pizza, steamed pork and chicken, and congee. Bring a Korean-speaking friend or ordering can be challenging. KOREAN. 120 W. Esplanade, 604-985-8828. $$

TOMAHAWK BARBECUE
The legend continues 80 years after Chick Chamberlain opened a drive-in restaurant on Marine Drive. The original counter stools remain in this current location, alongside the collection of Native artefacts that Chick collected over the years. His son and grandson keep the hearty tradition alive with the generous all-day Yukon-style bacon and free-range eggs ($10.70), the towering Skookum chief organic beef burger ($10.50), and Granny’s homespun berry pies ($3.95). Everything is made from scratch and carefully sourced with pride. Nightly specials ($13.90) and the Friday and Saturday three-course dinners ($16.90) move out of diner classics into more modern cuisine. INFORMAL. 1550 Philip Ave., 604-988-2612. $-$$

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