Okanagan
Kelowna and Westbank
Naramata
Oliver
Peachland
Penticton
Summerland
Sun Peaks Resort
KELOWNA AND WESTBANK
THE
AEGEAN GRILL
This small, high quality Greek dedicates itself to classics
and easily sets the valley standard. The room is small
and crowded with plants; through the jungle order marinated
lamb chops ($19.95)—plentiful and dual-carbed
with good rice and great roasted potatoes. Quality homous
and tzatziki (a la carte $5.95) ride side-saddle on
the appetizer platter ($26.95) with very good calamari
and the other other usual victims; including outstanding
cream and lemon-licked dolmathes; only the slightly
dry spanokopita was less than compelling. The star is
the slow-roasted lamb shoulder, a steal at $17.95, and
the wine list: Our bottle of earthy Coppolla rang in
at less than $50. The service is witty and as fresh
as the flavours. GREEK. 2437 Main St., Westbank,
250-707-1177.
BIRCH GRILL
Homey Bernard Street boite shows surprisingly sophisticated
cooking. Lunchtime pastas ($10) beat back the winter;
aim for portobello ravioli tomato-cream sauce, or something
from the rota of grilled fish, simply sauced. Terrific
wine list, and a frequent haunt of local winemakers.
Very friendly and well-informed wait staff. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 526 Bernard Ave., 250-860-3103.
THE BOHEMIAN CAFE
Relocated and mightily expanded, the Bohemian is downtown
Kelowna’s must-go for casual lunches: well-made
soups and sandwiches (the hand-carved turkey or sockeye
lox on toasted bagel are winners), the mango chutney
turkey salad ($9); and rustic quiches are also a draw.
Brunch runs to fresh standards such as corned beef hash,
quality omelettes and sunny-yolked bennies. Good desserts,
cheerful service, but at peak times the room can get
cafeteria-noisy. Catering available. INFORMAL. 524
Bernard Ave., 250-862-3517. $
BONFIRE AT THE COVE LAKESIDE RESORT
Consulting chefs Glenn Monk (ex-Fairmont Chateau Whistler)
and Andrew Springett (ex-Wickaninnish Inn) designed
the menus with “cuisines of the sun” in
mind. Some are more successful than others: Tortilla
pozole ($8) with nopal cactus and feta is a rich concoct;
a ceviche of mahi mahi ($8) with apricot vinaigrette
and avocado aïoli also pleases. Thin crust pizzas
($12-14) are well made, especially the Okanagan version
of house-smoked bacon and tomatoes with jalapeno havarti.
The wine list needs more depth, and seasonal service
issues addressing—we’ve had some of the
best service in the valley, followed by a chilly server
just several nights later. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
4205 Gellatly Road, Westbank, 250-707-1810.
BOUCHONS
Richard Toussaint’s and Martine Lefèbvre’s
(ex-Café de Paris) sparkling bistro near Prospera
Place plays to packed houses most nights. Chef Dominique
Couton injects lively French cooking into an accessible
but informed menu with plate-bending accessories that
often include miniature vegetable timbales, terrines,
scalloped potatoes or very good frites. Lusty onion
soup, moules frites, rabbit cassoulet, beef tartare
and a classic filet au poivre ($32.50) round out the
classics. You might not often associate the words bistro
with vegan, but a call-ahead request for one of our
guests showed a four-course vegetable tasting menu laden
with flavour. Three-course table d’hôte
($36.95) is sound value and reflects the seasons; game
dishes are also stellar. Desserts skirt French classics,
wine list aussi. FRENCH. 105-1180 Sunset Dr., 250-763-6595.
$$$
LA BOULANGERIE
Pierre-Jean Martin’s and his wife Sandrine Raffault’s
La Boulangerie signals the gentrification of Pandosy
Village. It’s a day-only room in a former fast-food
taco space on Lakeshore just south of KLO. Breakfast
on the Valley’s best croissants, danishes and
brioches and return at the noon hour for restorative
soups, quiches, husky sandwiches en baguette and a terrific
retinue of pastries and breads. The Valley’s best
fresh fruit tarte Tatin. FRENCH. 100-3140 Lakeshore
Rd., 250-762-3466. $-$$
LA BUSSOLA
Franco and Lauretta Coccaro provide the structure of
white linen that belies her free-form Italian cooking.
We’ve experienced service lags this year, and
gummy veal coatings, both at a group dinner, but other
visits have seen fresh vegetables that partner well-made
standards. Find substantial if proforma scampi, beef,
veal, prawn and salmon entrées (each well-sauced),
and a rotation of seafood specials ($24-35). Produce
is mostly locally sourced, the herbs come direct from
the Coccaro garden; the wines number B.C. and Italian
hopefuls. We hope to see a refreshed menu soon, in this
otherwise elegant room. ITALIAN. 1451 Ellis St.,
250-763-3110. $$$
CACTUS CLUB / EARLS / JOEYS
GLOBAL GRILL
All provide quality casual fine dining throughout the
Valley. We especially recommend them for family dining,
but they also offer crowd-pleasing menus for groups
and couples, intelligent wine selections and excellent
service—all at affordable prices. We especially
like the innovation found at Cactus Club: deep and delicious
bowls of wonton soup, stacked ahi and avocado poke salads
and fine steaks. At Earls we favour the terrific clam
chowder and outstanding wine list, while Joeys features
a number of quality Asian-influenced bowls—the
wonton soup is delicious. Most have a patio; at the
downtown Kelowna Earls, it comes with a stunning lake
view. INFORMAL. Earls: 211 Bernard St., Kelowna,
250-763-2777; 800-1210 Summit Dr., Kamloops, 250-372-3275;
101-1848 Main St., Penticton, 250-493-7455; 3101 Highway
6, Vernon, 250-542-3370, earls.ca. $$; Cactus Club:
200-1575 Banks Rd., Kelowna, 250-763-6752. $$; Joeys:
300-2475 Highway 97, Kelowna, 250-860-8999. $$-$$$
CHRISTOPHER'S STEAK AND SEAFOOD
RESTAURANT
Recently renovated, Christopher’s still serves
a signature (and well-stacked) seafood platter with
crab, lobster, prawns, mussels, calamari ($99), and
the Black Angus NY strip (10 oz. at $29), but to draw
the downtown after-work crowd they’ve added more
salads and appetizers—try the greens with red
pepper and balsamic truffle vinaigrette ($7/11), or
the stuffed portobello with shrimp and crab ($11). There’s
a decent selection of B.C. and international wines,
martinis, and enthusiastic service—it’s
a safe bet for a date. STEAKHOUSE. 242 Lawrence
Ave., 250-861-3464.
FRESCO
Fresco—the best non-winery restaurant in the Okanagan—has
settled in for a long run in this brick-walled heritage
space, promoting sleek surfaces and an open kitchen.
The cooking is sleek too, showcasing chef Rodney Butters’
contemporary, ingredient-driven focus on seasonal and
organic local ingredients: local vegetable gazpacho
with olive oil-poached tomatoes ($11), rockfish in roasted
carrot sauce ($26), grilled venison rib chop with pancetta
butter ($28) are convincing, but regulars hold out for
signature grilled aged beef tenderloin ($32) that packs
flavour. The wine list is an impressive array of both
domestic and imported wines, including some rare finds.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1560 Water St., 250-868-8805.
$$$$
GRAPEVINE RESTAURANT AT GRAY
MONK ESTATE WINERY
Gray Monk makes a blended white called Latitude 50,
which signals its location 25 minutes north of downtown
Kelowna. Don’t miss lunch on the patio prepared
by chef Willi Franz. Order a snappy salad of Little
Creek Garden mesclun ($8.95), or fork into the East-West
hot seafood salad of Digby scallops, prawns and greens
with gazpacho vinaigrette ($14.95). Franz’s duck
with blackberry glaze, warm red cabbage salad and spaetzle
($25.50) is a pretty turn. Open seven days for lunch
from March 1 to Oct. 30 and for dinner from June 15
to Sept. 15. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 1055 Camp
Rd., Okanagan Centre, 250-766-3405. $$-$$$
THE HARVEST DINING ROOM AT
THE HARVEST GOLF CLUB
One of the country’s best golf courses takes its
dining room seriously. Executive chef Paul Cecconi has
made his mark here, and the menu reflects his commitment
to the best ingredients, including the club’s
own orchard fruit. The room is spare, but service is
attentive and friendly, and the staff is well versed
on the reasonably priced list that features an extensive
selection of local vintages. Menu highlights: duck confit
salad with anjou pears and Poplar Grove tiger blue cheese,
white asparagus salad with poached egg, and seared duck
breast with torpedo beets. Patio breakfasts also recommended.
contemporary west coast. 2725 KLO Rd., 250-862-3177.
$$-$$$
HOANG GIA
This family-run restaurant serves a large selection
of Vietnamese dishes in a simply decorated room just
off Highway 97. Go for the house special of rice noodles,
spring rolls, pork skewers, and shrimp ball for $11.95,
or the house pho (noodle soup) with tripe and rare beef
($7.25/8.95)—a terrific bowl. There’s a
small selection of Asian beers to wash it all down.
VIETNAMESE. 220-2469 Highway 97 North, 250-861-3010
$-$$
THE HOTEL ELDORADO LAKESIDE
DINING ROOM
Manager Trevor Jones continues to rework the three-meal-a-day
menus and service is improved on the wildly popular
patios. Winning dishes include potent lime, caper and
chili-fired tequila-lime calamari ($13) and an 8-ounce
burger on fresh ciabatta ($11). More expensive grilled
meats ($20-42), including halibut and prime rib chops,
rack of lamb and beef, are well executed and the default
choice of most diners. The adjacent lounge is K-Town’s
most colourful meeting point, with lots of local characters,
interloping property developers and a friendly, attractive
staff. Solid breakfasts. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
500 Cook Rd., 250-763-7500. $$-$$$$
MAHDINAS
This comfortable spot nestled in Pandosy Village serves
up a delightful, internationally influenced menu. Owner/chef
Chef Derek Thompson sources many local artisanal products
and varies the menu monthly. Start with the panko prawns
with sweet chili mango salsa ($13) or a ‘rainbow’
salad with a saffron poached pear, spinach, roast beet
and blue cheese ($10). The Phuket sockeye salmon with
fresh mint, coriander and basil ($21) is memorable,
as is the chicken saltimbocca with a truffle risotto
($20). Leave room for the trio of brulee for two, a
sampling of white chocolate, lavender and cranberry
($10). Attentive service and a summer patio draw in
diners for serious cooking in a relaxed setting. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 5–3045 Tutt St., 250-868-3389. $$
MARMALADE CAT
Pandosy Village fixture combines country style offerings
well suited to a leisurely coffee, tea, or light lunch.
Early (7:30 a.m.) opening on weekdays brings in commuters
for fresh pastries to start the day off right. Vegetarian
meals, well-made sandwiches, fresh juice and smoothies
are their specialty, although table delivery can bog
down during busy lunch periods. Open 7 days a week;
closed evenings. INFORMAL. 2903 Pandosy St. 250-861-1312.
$
MINSTREL CAFE AND BAR
There’s little not to like at this popular Lower
Mission roadhouse that features live jazz, a large patio
under the shade of a towering London plane tree, and
accommodating staff. The prices are all right, too:
entrées of lusty lamb shanks and husky-boy grilled
sirloins are each under $22. Pastas are even a better
bargain—we steer to the chef’s daily pronouncements.
INFORMAL. 4638 Lakeshore Rd., 250-764-2301. $$
THE TERRACE AT MISSION HIILL
FAMILY ESTATE WINERY
Overlooking rows of chardonnay and pinot noir vines
with a dramatic panorama of Lake Okanagan, the Terrace
patio offers one of the Okanagan’s premier al
fresco dining experiences. Seasonal dishes are inventive,
flavourful, well crafted and suited to winemaker John
Simes’ wines. Open for lunch from May through
mid-October, weather permitting; dinner service from
mid-June to Labour Day. contemporary west coast. 1730
Mission Hill Rd., 250-768-6467. $$-$$$
MISSION HILL FAMILY ESTATE
WINERY PRIVATE DINING EXPERIENCE
Executive chef Michael Allemeier, whose resumé
includes Bishop’s and Calgary’s Teatro,
forges the Valley’s finest dining, with most of
the ingredients grown in a 20-kilometre radius of his
kitchen door. His Private Dining experience, available
by reservation for groups from six to 200, is a skilled
departure from the norm: chef Allemeier works back from
the evening’s wine selection to the food. A Five
Vineyards pinot grigio might prompt a cuttlefish salad
with white beans and frisée; a sauvignon blanc
a stirring nettle and fennel soup; a SLC merlot a venison
rack with morel risotto. This is an elegant but unforced
tour de force. And note: The food-obsessed should watch
the winery’s website for the wildly popular cooking
seminars—ranging from southern barbecue to fine
dining. contemporary west coast. 1730 Mission Hill
Rd., Westbank, 250-768-6443. $$-$$$$
QUAILS' GATE OLD VINES RESTAURANT
The dining room has an expansive fireplace over stunning
Okanagan Lake views. Chef Roger Slieman reflects the
seasons on wine-friendly menus: spinach and pea shoot
salad ($11) was cleanly wrought on a hot day, while
braised Berkshire pork belly ($17) seemed just right
come cooler nights. Attach a firm Merlot to a Wentzel
duck breast ($30) with raspberry gastrique, or a family
reserve Pinot Noir to wild arctic caribou ($39). Service,
under manager James Kendal, is professional but relaxed—this
is a must-visit room on any wine country tour. contemporary
west coast. 3303 Boucherie Rd., 250-769-4451. $$$
RIC'S GRILL
Glass-walled Ric’s Grill, part of a western Canadian
steakhouse chain, sees 24-oz. porterhouse steaks, Alaska
king crab legs and prime rib expediently prepped. But
service can drag, wine knowledge can be sparse and the
food has arrived only lukewarm on busy nights. Proforma
side dishes are passable after-thoughts and a dish of
ahi tuna carpaccio was harmless. There’s lots
of beef in all its guises (top sirloin—recommended—New
York strips, surf and turf). Good wine selection, if
pricey. Overall, we much prefer Ric’s next door
tapas lounge, called Shine, where there’s plenty
of small plates innovation with flavoursome sauces,
less intimidating portions, and a large patio for summer
dining. STEAKHOUSE. 210 Lawrence Ave., 250-869-1586.
$$$-$$$$
THE ROTTEN GRAPE RESTAURANT
Casually sophisticated describes this long, narrow space
downtown dominated by an elegant bar and surrounded
by cool music and bar-height tables and seating. An
award-winning wine list with features wine flights and
by-the-glass choices, is matched by a menu with a tempting
array of small plates such as mango-curry prawns ($10)
or thin-crust pizzas ($10-$15) and mains that are bargain-priced
(bison tenderloin, $16; rack of lamb, $15). But hey,
you’re here for the wine list, which is huge,
includes a number of biodynamic bottles, is knowledgeably
served and reaches into all corners of the solar system,
especially the boutiques of California. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 231 Bernard Ave., 250-717-8466. $$
SAL'S PRIME
In 2007 restaurateur Sal Gupta (who also owns Ric’s
Grill), opened his version of a “prime”
steakhouse in downtown Kelowna. A sleek room with leather
seats, banquettes, and attentive service. Menu screams
old school, but Chef Tyler Groenesteyn sources local
cheeses and adds playful updates such as truffle oil
with spinach. Top sirloin and ubiquitous (and over-rated)
kobe beef arrive at your table—in the style of
Morton’s—for a pre-dinner inspection. Choose
a rub or sauce and order up family style side dishes.
Lots of salads and seafood options, and a far-reaching
wine list that can quickly get expensive. STEAKHOUSE.
366 Bernard St. 250-862-2909. $$$-$$$$
SHINE
Loungey room serves share plates and cocktails to after-work
and late-night crowds. Sample classic cocktails ($9.50
for a double) like the Jack Daniels-based Lynchburg
lemonade or the caipirinha. The oyster bar features
four to five varieties—topped with tobiko and
chervil for $14. The flatbreads are another good choice—there’s
both the margherita topped with tomato and buffalo mozzarella
or the Tuscan with caramelized onion and asiago ($15).
Lots more contemporary squeeze-botle cooking, it’s
worth saving room for the house-made chocolate mousse.
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 210 Lawrence St., 250-763-9463.
$$$
SUMMERHILL SUNSET BISTRO
With sweeping views of vineyards, Lake Okanagan and
mountains to the west, the Sunset Bistro creates an
all-points sensory backdrop for Summerhill’s crisp,
organically grown, pyramid-aged sparkling wines. At
dinner, chef Jesse Croy elevates the proceedings with
Vale Farms grass-fed beef tenderloin ($30) and Napa
Valley cabbage wrapped halibut with puy lentils and
pancetta ($27), as well as salads that include organically
grown vegetables from the winery’s own certified
gardens, and other locally grown, fresh products. The
buffeteria weekend brunches are gargantuan. Open February
to December. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Summerhill
Pyramid Winery, 4870 Chute Lake Rd., 250-764-8000. $$-$$$
WATERFRONT WINE BAR AND RESTAURANT
One of our favourite casuals in the Valley, the Waterfront
(it’s not) is next door to its excellent companion
wine shop and nearby Prospera Place. We go for the energetic
atmosphere and modern room, which welcomes food and
wine cognescenti there for Mark Filatow’s big
flavours on small plates. The menu is a model of simplicity:
Ten or so starters might include a pestle-pounded Caesar
dressing over romaine ($8), a nifty plate of olives
($5), or chili and sea salt-dusted calamari ($11). Main
courses leap to steamed sablefish with a miso and lime
sauce ($24), and braised beef cheeks with porcini and
bacon jus ($23), but the shortribs are best in show.The
Stella is ice cold, the generous list of wines very
knowledgeably paired. Filatow and his partners recently
took over the Laughing Moon premises in the Lower Mission.
INFORMAL. 104-1180 Sunset Dr., 250-979-1222. $$
WOOD FIRE BAKERY
F-350 Turbo-Diesel pickups rub shoulders with shiny
Mercs at this popular lunchtime dispensary of Bavarian-styled
rib-stickers. Huge portions of chicken cordon bleu ($7.95),
meatloaf with gravy and kraut ($6.95), and crisp-skinned
braised ham hock clang on the stainless steel self-service
line ($9.45). But regulars are here for the massive
stack of roast beef and gravy, carved over house-baked
garlic rolls the size of hubcaps ($7.95). Most meals
under $10. INFORMAL. 2041 Harvey Ave., 250-762-2626.
$
THE VINEYARD TERRACE RESTAURANT
AT CEDARCREEK ESTATE WINERY
Stunning vineyard views and immaculately kept gardens
cascading into the lake frame idyllic setting for a
relaxed and informal lunch on the Vineyard Terrace with
wines chosen by co-proprietor Gordon Fitzpatrick. Chef
Geoffrey Couper’s love of locally grown vegetables,
quality charcuterie and Canadian cheeses figures prominently
on both the tapas menu and the fresh sheet. Salads recommended
themselves: try crispy duck leg confit with cassoulet
beans ($16). Pair with an Estate Select Chardonnay or
Pinot Noir. Be sure to take away a bottle or two of
the Platinum Reserve—amongst the top flights in
the valley. Open from June through mid-September; check
the website for dining events in the fall. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 5445 Lakeshore Rd., 250-764-8866. $$
WILD APPLE AT MANTEO RESORT
Lunches are popular at this recently redecorated beachfront
room with a large patio, but the cooking slides up several
notches at dinner. Standards are well-sauced, prettily
presented and include an exemplary (and huge), pistachio-crusted
lamb sirloin with gorgonzola risotto for just $22. This
is an honest hotel restaurant by Valley standards, with
a sportif bar (although the microscopic televisions
make Bertuzzi look more like Smyl); unfortunately the
wine list remains skinny and pedestrian. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 3762 Lakeshore Rd., 250-860-4488. $$
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NARAMATA
BARREL
BISTRO ROOM AT HILLSIDE ESTATE WINERY
Plan to stop for lunch or dinner at the casual Barrel
Bistro Room at Hillside, a pristine hilltop winery with
stunning views from the post-and-beam restaurant or
the dining terrace upstairs. Choose the Okanagan cold
plate ($16) with house-made baguette, artisanal cheeses,
wild boar terrine, cured salmon, tapenade and condiments.
At dinner, skip the overdressed Caesar and get right
to the meat of the matter with the roasted rack of New
Zealand lamb ($34), caramelized to a crunch and tempered
by a Dijon rosemary glaze—match it with a bottle
of Mosaic, their award-winning bordeaux blend. The friendly
staff will take care of you. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 1350 Naramata Rd., 250-493-6274.
$$-$$$$
COBBLESTONE WINE BAR AND RESTAURANT
Reserve a seat on the weekend to try Chef Thomas Render’s
tasting menus, featuring local, seasonal and organic
produce and meats ($65-$90; May to October). Choices
range from sea scallop ceviche, chilled English sweet
pea soup and walnut crusted Alberta beef tenderloin
to Okanagan rabbit, Enderby lamb and wild salmon. Order
from an a la carte menu on weekdays. The wine list is
carefully wrought and reasonably priced, best enjoyed
on a lovely patio. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. Naramata Heritage Inn &
Spa, 3625 1st St., 250-496-6808; 866-617-1188. $$$
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OLIVER
THE
SONORA ROOM AT BURROWING OWL ESTATE WINERY
Dramatic, soaring room framed by desert flora, peaceful
hills and now, gorgeous new accommodation. Wine and
food is seamless, especially now that chef Bernard Casavant
is helming the kitchen. A summer meal might begin with
sautéed mussels with fennel root and basil pesto
butter broth ($17). The dinner menu runs to pan-seared
wild salmon fillet with sugar pea coulis, or a roasted
rack of lamb with wild mushroom risotto. The wine list
includes a selection of library wines that are no longer
available for sale. No doubt the best dining room in
the south valley. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 100 Burrowing Owl
Place, 877-498-0620 or 250-498-0620. $$$
TOASTED OAK WINE BAR AND GRILL
While many use the term gastro-pub loosely, this Okanagan
favourite can confidently claim the title. Chef Jeffrey
Brandt’s menu nods to pub favourites like chicken
wings (he calls his Fire Hall Rooster Wings; $10), but
you will also find charcuterie plates ($15/$28), duck
confit spring rolls ($9) and a gourmet blue cheese burger
($10). The wine list here is vast and takes a Wine Spectator
award each year. Sommelier Jay Drysdale hosts frequent
wine tastings and is an expert on both local and international
bottles. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 34881 97th St., 250-498-4867.
$
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PEACHLAND
THE
BLIND ANGLER
Surprising in its reach, this breakfast, lunch and dinner
spot is also a community hub: there’s a local
politico trading current events over chorizo hash at
breakfast, or a local beauty sharing Jack Daniels-licked
ribs by night. Prettily perched on the lake, there’s
real character here, evidenced by the hearty greeting
at the front door, through to a satisfying Xango dessert:
banana cheesecake wrapped in a stuffed tortilla, then
deep-fried. Be brave. INFORMAL. 5899A Beach Ave.,
250-767-9264.
THE GASTHAUS
The heavy carved woods of the Gasthaus remind of Black
Forest gemütlich, especially in front of the huge
stone fireplace. The food is cosseting too: bratwurst
Nuremburger with fine kraut and potatoes, schnitzels
as large as platters, and the main event—a smoky,
braised ham hock of Jurrasic proportion. Fine selection
of German beers, and a tidy wine list. GERMAN. 5790
Beach Ave., Peachland, 250-767-6625.
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PENTICTON
THE BUS DEPOT CAFE
Early-morning bus stations can be depressing places,
but not in the cheerful two-level cafeteria at the Penticton
Greyhound bus depot known as The Hound by locals. The
place has a ’50s-era traveling salesman kind of
charm—yellow plastic trays, brown Formica tables
and a steady flow of just-woke-up types that include
hung over pairs, Naramata winemakers and beeper-belted
delivery men. Breakfast is available from 7 a.m. till
closing at 2 p.m. Fortify yourself with the house special—two
eggs, bacon, sausages and fluffy pancakes for $4.79;
or two eggs with bacon, crispy fried hash browns riddled
with green onions and a side of toast ($3.99). And as
it should be in any self-respecting café, service
is fast. Closed on Mondays. INFORMAL. 307 Ellis
St. $
HOODED MERGANSER BAR AND GRILL
Named after a rare and reclusive diving duck that landed
during the restaurant’s name selection process,
the “Hood” is built on piles that straddle
Lake Okanagan at the Penticton Lakeside Resort. Wall-to-wall
wrap-around windows provide panoramic views of the lake
and mountains. Inside the woodsy dining room, chef Chris
Remington’s menu features traditional dishes and
fresh local inventions. Despite its duck moniker, the
kitchen turns out only one version—a five-spiced
crisp-skinned pan-seared breast ($23). The signature
dish is an eight-hour lasagne ($13) alternating layers
of braised beef brisket and delicate pasta. The wine
list represents the best local wineries. CONTEMPORARY
WEST COAST. 21 Lakeshore Dr. W., 250-487-4663. $$-$$$$
THEO'S
The hospitality of the Theodosakis family has made this
restaurant a local institution for more than 25 years.
The seats around the fireplace are in high demand, but
in any season you’ll enjoy an intimate courtyard
ambiance filled with art, antique tapestries and vintage
family photographs. Make a meal from the appetizers
alone: the tangy tzatziki, garlicky hummus and taramosalata
(mullet fish roe) dips ($6.25 each) are creamy and filling.
Theo’s Platter for Two ($45.95) provides a cornucopia
of traditional Hellenic favourites including Greek salad,
moussaka, beef souvlaki, dolmathes avgolemono (tender
grape leaves filled with herb-laced rice and ground
beef baked with a traditional Greek lemon sauce) and
paithakia skaras (broiled rack of lamb chops). The impressive
list of local wines reflects the owners’ passionate
support of the booming local wine scene. GREEK.
687 Main St., 250-492-4019. $-$$
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SUMMERLAND
THE
CELLAR DOOR BISTRO
At Sumac Ridge Estate Winery The Cellar Door Bistro
is one of the valley’s better casual stops. Take
something simple from executive chef Neil Schroeter’s
card, such as an heirloom tomato and goat cheese ($12),
or match the diverse selection of varietal wines including
a very tasty gewürztraminer, a fine pinot blanc
married with wild salmon (lunch, $14; dinner, $23),
or anything matched with one of the country’s
best sparklers, Steller’s Jay Brut. Red wine lovers
can test out the best chocolate match with blended and
single varietal labels of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet
franc, merlot. Occasional four-course tasting menu paired
with wines. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Sumac Ridge
Estate Winery, Highway 97 N., 250-494-0451. $$-$$$
THE VANILLA POD
Owners Paul and Sheila Jones have landscaped a bright
and accessible environment for Chef Bruno Terroso’s
tomato towers appetizer—local fruit cascaded with
red onion marmalade, apple wood-smoked cheddar under
basil vinaigrette—and mains such as sake-glazed
sablefish ($15) and green curry and vegetable risotto
($15). Cap off the evening with brandied bananas or
crème brulee ($7 each) and a selection from the
port list, which ranges from Graham’s Six Grape
Port (2-oz., $9) to Taylors Vintage 1977 (2-oz., $50).
CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. 9917 Main St.
(Off Highway 97), 250-494-8222. $$
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SUN PEAKS RESORT
MANTLES
Situated in the Delta Hotel at Sun Peaks Resort, this
comfortable three-mealer refuels summer hikers and winter
boarders. Mountain waffles ($13.50) or classic eggs
Benedict ($14) are solid set ups. Chef Ian Riddick’s
dinner menu highlights include west coast dips, mushroom
paté, smoked salmon, and homemade olive tapenade
served with pita and flat bread ($16); crispy skin wild
salmon ($31) and a quality rib steak ($35). Good selection
of B.C. wine, enthusiastic service and generally smooth
execution in the kitchen. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST.
3240 Village Way, Sun Peaks, 250-578-6060. $$$
SERVUS
Hearty food, heartfelt hospitality. Karl and Elisabeth
Buchegger import rigorous execution, with a deft European
touch, to their charming restaurant Hearthstone Lodge
restaurant. The menu is seasonal and this summer we
found salads such as the caprese ($9), or spicy prawn
with avocado ($12.50) excellent starters, and followed
with their delicious fisherman’s tribute, of mushroom-dusted
halibut served with rice cakes and veggies ($27). Year-round
Servus features rack of lamb ($39), as well as the schnitzel
al la Vienna ($19.50)—a worthy tribute to their
Austrian heritage. EUROPEAN. 3170 Creekside Way,
Sun Peaks, 250-578-7383. $$-$$$
KIA-ORA
The exciting mountain view is the initial draw at Sun
Peaks dining room, but the food is worthy of a snow
day, too. Chef Craig McKenzie’s three-course fondue
($39.95) in front of the fireplace is a must. The main
menu changes daily; we’ve enjoyed a tasty portobello
stack with zucchini, bocconcini and balsamic reduction,
baked brie on tomato salad, duck with roasted garlic
and vanilla, and a neat braised New Zealand lamb shank.
Cost ranges from $35-40 for the three course table d’hote
menus. CONTEMPORARY WEST COAST. Pinnacle Lodge,
2503 Eagle Ct., Sun Peaks, 866-578-7850. $$-$$$
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